| The
first Halston Heritage boutique is being debuted
in Los Angeles, California, at the Beverly Center. |
 |
LOS
ANGELES — Halston was America’s first celebrity
designer, creator of Jackie O’s famous pillbox hat and
a hard-partying denizen of Studio 54. He was also one of
the first fashion figures to license his name, an
experiment that failed miserably at the time but paved
the way for the democratization of fashion as we know it
today.
And
now the latest iteration of his design legacy, the
contemporary brand Halston Heritage, has a new home.
The
Los Angeles-based Halston Heritage opened its West Coast
flagship in the Beverly Center on April 19, three weeks
after opening its first store, on Madison Avenue in New
York City. Although the brand has been selling at
department stores and boutiques for several seasons, the
new stores bring life and context to the vision of
Halston Chairman and Chief Executive Ben Malka for the
first time. Malka, the former president of BCBG Max
Azria, took over Halston in 2011, pumping several
million dollars of his own into the brand. And he couldn’t
be prouder of the store located on Level 6 of the mall.
"I’ve walked it a thousand times in my
head," he said, taking me on a tour of the space.
Halston
died in 1990, and numerous people have tried to revive
the brand, including designers Randolph Duke, Bradley
Bayou and Kevan Hall. In 2007, the name was bought by
filmmaker Harvey Weinstein, who tried the celebrity
angle, appointing Sarah Jessica Parker as creative
director — an experiment that lasted for only a few
months.
Weinstein
is no longer involved. And this time, Malka is going a
different route, emphasizing the product over the people
creating it, and that includes Halston himself.
Inside
the store, you won’t find a single portrait of the
designer, whose heyday was the 1960s and ‘70s
("That would be cheesy," Malka said). But you
will find more subtle nods to the master of sexy
minimalism, who created Ultrasuede shirtwaist dresses,
six-ply cashmere turtleneck sweaters and jersey halter
gowns that have influenced everyone from Michael Kors to
Celine’s Phoebe Philo.
The
glass facade features an "H" within an
"H" graphic derived from the original Halston
logo. Inside, mannequins staged on a platform are meant
to evoke the theatricality for which Halston’s models
were known. Other design elements of the store’s
interior were inspired by Halston’s New York
apartment, including the architectural-looking,
amber-and-gray shelving displaying handbags and the
floating staircase erected to showcase the new footwear
collection. (Malka’s wife, Anita Jansens-Malka, is in
charge of accessory design.)
Like
everyone else in the business of reviving old fashion
brands, Malka is trying to simultaneously capitalize on,
and move beyond, his namesake designer. For shoppers who
know the name, Malka hopes they remember Halston not
only as disco denizen but as Halston, creator of
American sportswear. That’s the focus of the Halston
Heritage collection, which is created by an L.A.-based
design team. The clothes have a spare minimalism and
sportiness similar to what’s being offered from such
brands as Theory, Vince and Helmut Lang and at the same
contemporary price point. (Malka also plans to launch a
higher-end collection under the Halston name, though he
doesn’t know when.)
Highlights
include a white leather paneled cotton canvas peplum
jacket ($695); a belted, white shirt dress with
box-pleat details and a shirttail hem that curves into
the front yoke ($575); slim cream leather and ponte knit
pants ($895); a poppy-colored, elbow-sleeve, boat-neck
gown with a draped back ($895); matte white crocodile
pointy-toe pumps ($345); and a gold linen doctor bag
($495). The hardware on soft clutch bags ($450) echoes
the organic forms in Halston’s jewelry and perfume
bottles, which were created by Elsa Peretti.
Unlike
the previous incarnation of the brand, which emphasized
slinky, sparkly evening gowns over daytime looks,
Halston Heritage has both, and it’s aimed at working
women ages 30 to 50, he said, "because this is how
(that age group) dresses today. They don’t look like
Samantha Stevens in ‘Bewitched,’ who looked 50 at
age 28."
"Whether
you know the brand or you don’t, we’re hoping it
doesn’t matter. At the end of the day, you see a
beautiful store with everyday stuff that has a certain
style and is approachable and affordable," Malka
said. "And without naming names, there are 20
brands out there right now that are influenced by this,
by the simplicity, the drape, the clean lines. The
question isn’t, ‘Is it relevant to today?’ because
it’s already out there. And this is where it came
from. It started with Halston."