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New York Fashion Week: Fall and spring collections share the runway

October 3, 2016

Pretty-in-pink ensemble from J.Crew's spring 2017 collection, which was previewed at New York Fashion Week on Sept. 11, 2016. The presentation took place at Spring Studios on Varick Street.

NEW YORK — You name it, we saw it.

The latest New York Fashion Week, which wrapped earlier this month, was everything and the kitchen sink, as a growing number of designers navigate the still-murky waters of see now/buy now collections. The rest stuck to tradition and sent styles for next spring and summer down the runway. The result: Designers dazzled us with a sometimes confusing yet fun mix of everything from chunky sweaters to sexy swimwear.

It’s too soon to tell if showing in-season collections paid off for designers who made the switch. But early signs point to "yes." Rebecca Minkoff, one of the pioneers of runway-to-retail, reported a 200 percent boost in sales for the month when she unveiled a see now/buy now collection at fashion week in February. Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger, Club Monaco, Ralph Lauren and Banana Republic joined her this time.

Here’s a recap of some of the top see now/buy now trends, plus a preview of spring styles to look forward to in early 2017:

Moto jacket mania: Designers cranked up the cool girl factor with lots of leather jackets in camel, navy, burgundy and jet black. Alice + Olivia had ones with "Always Right" scribbled across the back ($995 at www.aliceandolivia.com). Minkoff teamed with New York City activist/street artist Ann Lewis (known as "gilf") for a limited-edition charity collection of motivational motos with sayings such as "Love is Love" and "We Are One" painted on them. (Shop the fall line at www.rebeccaminkoff.com/fall-2016

Ralph Lauren even layered leather over an evening gown. (Collection available at RalphLauren.com, flagship stores and fine department stores.) Other outerwear having a moment: bombers, furs and capes with military touches.

Back to basics: While muted prints (gingham, dark florals, paisley and stripes) were plentiful, several designers went for the impact of a clean, monochromatic look. In particular, pure white and solid black dresses, suiting and separates were timeless and flattering.

Playing with proportions: Voluminous silhouettes were done in playful, fresh ways. Sweaters with slouchy sleeves and full pleated skirts were staples of Club Monaco’s in-season offerings (www.clubmonaco.com

Cozy chic: Thanks to athleisure wear, there’s no need to sacrifice style for comfort. Relaxed joggers, hooded sweatshirts, jersey dresses and graphic tees were some of the latest takes on the trend.

Natural beauty: While some designers have a soft spot for fantastical updos and makeup, most sent models down the runway with a fresh face and un-fussy hair. Eye shadow, liners and bold lipstick were kept to a minimum in favor of a dewy, neutral look. Some stylists let models’ hair air-dry or combed it with just their fingers.

Spring preview: The theme of Michael Kors’ runway show summed up the vibe of most spring/summer collections: "Come on, get happy!" With vibrant colors (grassy greens, powder blues, rosy pinks), whimsical prints and statement sunglasses galore, that will be easy. Expect classic black-and-white pieces to be prominent, too. On the beauty front, nail art (particularly free-hand designs on a nude nail) will be back, so brush up on your DIY skills!

 

 



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