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Dudes —
seriously — get mad. It's cool. Designers want you to.
We're
talking "mad" as in "Mad Men," AMC's
cult hit series about
Manhattan
ad men, sullied by lust and liquor on their breath —
but always looking good. It's as if every menswear
designer showing a spring 2010 collection at
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week has this show on the brain.
"We're
now into the third season of 'Mad Men,' and this visual
from the early '60s helps validate the trend," says
Tom Julian
, a trend expert and author of the "Nordstrom Guide
to Men's Style."
The trend
— shorter, two-button suit jackets, flat-front pants,
skinny ties and an overall look that says "neat ...
casual luxury," as Gilded Age designer
Stefan Miljanic
puts it — has been coming on for several seasons and
now feels firmly established. Which means guys may want
to consider investing in new trousers. Or — yes, even
if you're scrimping — a new suit.
In any
case, we certainly have options, from stalwarts like
Claiborne (where
John Bartlett
is injecting some much-needed style) to smaller labels
like
Duckie Brown
, Gilded Age, Spurr and 3.1
Phillip Lim
.
And ...
psst. If you really insist on a roomier fit, go for
double-breasted, which is back with a vengeance.
ELIE TAHARI
Suits
were "Mad Men" trim, tinged with sheen and a
slightly crinkled texture, which telegraphs (or, these
days, tweets) that you're neat and stylish, sure, but
not afraid to be a little real and rumpled.
DUCKIE BROWN
Double-breasted
jackets and sheer shirts starred in a collection that
feels very
Hollywood
glam. And the Oxford shoes — in bright colors — with
no socks is a hip look worn by dandies for years ... but
will this be the year regular dudes go for it?
CLAIBORNE
BY
JOHN BARTLETT
Bartlett's
easy-fit line ("not too tight, not too loose,"
he says), with gingham shirts, polos and five-pocket
pants (rolled at the cuff), is casual yet tailored,
inspired by TV's "
New York Prep
."
GILDED
AGE
Picnic
tables, turf and watermelon set the stage for Gilded
Age's laid-back real-guy looks, like this slightly
rumpled double-faced coat, slim cotton pants, plaid
shirt and tie, and vintage hand-done leather belt.
3.1
PHILLIP LIM
Lim's
first all-men's presentation included "guru"
pants (hard to pull off, with roll-down waists —
c'mon), but we liked a cool, camel double-breasted
blazer (worn with loose tee), the cashmere
windowpane-print sweater and two-tone knit tanks.
RICHARD CHAI
Chai's
models (with cyclist caps) had us wanting to watch
"Breaking Away" again (awesome flick), and
reconsider fuller-cut pants (prevalent, despite the
slimming trend) and sheer shirts (the black-and-sheer
striped polo was kinda cool, if you dare).
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