its year-round lifestyle of sand, sea and surf, Los
Angeles is a perennial creative touchstone for spring
itís no surprise that the City of Angelsí landscape
was an inspiration not only for the many L.A.-based
designers who showed their spring 2014 collections
during New York Fashion Week but for many non-natives
Crew womenís wear designer Tom Mora was inspired by
"the California coast, where it feels like summer
all the time," which translated into an aloha print
neoprene flippy skirt, rainbow-stripe silk track pants
and a fun, big-wave intarsia sweater. Peter Som
described his collection as "downtown surfer
girl," including a blue wave-print tuxedo coat and
Melrose to Malibu," Tommy Hilfiger said of his
collection of scuba dresses, shorts and skirts with
zippered waistbands folded over to resemble the
inverted-V shape of a peeled down wetsuit. Marc Jacobsí
captainís jackets, board shorts, Victorian-era
embroidered lace gowns and sport sandals suggested a
more sinister side of surf, perhaps even shipwreck chic.
designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy, who live in Pasadena,
Calif., also seemed to have something darker in mind.
Their take on L.A. fell in with the gritty street vibe
of Hedi Slimaneís "California Grunge" fall
2013 collection for Saint Laurent, which is in stores
than any specific location or reference it was "the
creativity and freedom" of L.A., Laura Mulleavy
said of the collection, which nodded to Ď80s and Ď90s
punk and heavy metal.
darkness to domesticity. Proenza Schouler designers Jack
McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez looked indoors, to L.A.ís
sleek Midcentury design for references for their clean
and polished suiting, foil-printed skirts and chrome
bar-handled clutch bags.
of Outsiders designer Scott Sternberg brought a bit of
home with him, building an elaborate set piece on his
runway, a view of the Hollywood sign from behind with
the lights of Los Angeles County glittering below. The
starting point for the collection was Robert Altmanís
1973 neo-noir film "The Long Goodbye,"
specifically the "sporty, fresh, bohemian"
look of heroine Eileen Wade (played by Nina Van Pallandt),
Sternberg said backstage, which translated into an apres-hike
wardrobe of slouchy athletic pants, nylon ponchos and
parachute skirts, leather dolphin shorts and
crunchy-granola, nylon cord sandals worn with socks.
of course, where there are movies being made, there are
stars ó and designers to dress them, including L.A.ís
Juan Carlos Obando, whose colorful silk streamer dresses
were intoxicating; Barbara Tfank, whose vision of retro
femininity never gets old; and Monique Lhuillier, whose
breezy ball gowns and Deco embroideries are the stuff of
red carpet dreams.
ease," is how Lhuillier described her collection,
which is exactly what L.A. does best.