look from the Rachel Zoe fall/winter 2016
collection, presented at New York Fashion Week
earlier this month.
YORK — There’s a difference between being in a rut
and staying true to your roots.
New York Fashion Week’s fall/winter 2016 shows, which
ended last week, there wasn’t too much we hadn’t
seen before. In other words, don’t expect to find
anything too revolutionary on store racks later this
year. However, what we did see was done impeccably well,
with several designers churning out collections that
were some of their best.
out some of the creme de la creme trends in the months
references: Designers danced from decade to decade in
search of inspiration for their collections.The 1960s
and ’70s remained key influences, continuing a
resurgence that began in fall 2015. This time, however,
there were fewer literal references (the all-out fringe
foray seen in stores last year, for instance). Instead,
we saw more subtle nods to the era — high-waist and
wide-legged pants, wide brim hats, patchwork prints,
flowy Boho frocks, secretary blouses with signature bows
tied at the neck and slinky disco-worthy slip dresses.
Others drew upon trends from the 1930s, ’40s, ’80s
of blue: Denim, aqua, teal — — yes, blues of
practically every hue colored the catwalk. Pantone
declared the color family the anchor of its fall 2016
color report released during Fashion Week. Other shades
that surfaced often included vibrant blood reds, ink
blacks and crisp whites (which Thomas Wylde dubbed
"cocaine" in his collection).
that sparkles: A red carpet prediction: Expect to see
gowns dripping in all-over glitz at the Oscars.
Designers who regularly dress Hollywood’s leading
ladies showed gowns that were exquisitely beaded and
embellished with statement stones or metallic-hammered
sequins. (Dennis Basso, Naeem Khan, Reem Acra and
J.Mendel did it particularly well, and Ralph Lauren did
a couple pieces in a flowing lame fabric that looked
like liquid gold.)
for all occasions: Whether you’re dining someplace
dapper or just dashing out to do daytime errands,
designers have you covered this fall. Shearling-lined
bomber jackets and cute cropped coats were among the
more popular options for casual wear, while capes and
fur coverings (long and short, in sable, broadtail,
mink, chinchilla and faux varieties) were perfect for
playing dress-up. Derek Lam stood out with sharp belted
fur maxis with windowpane patterns and more abstract
in the details: Like good movies, many collections had
to be seen again and again to fully appreciate their
artistry. There were rich brocades, appliques, crushed
velvets and velours emblazoned with simple patterns,
lace trimmings and insets, ombre skins and ruffles. At
Nanette Lepore’s presentation, a bomber jacket and
dress impressed with a beautiful bird and flower print
masterfully done in sequins and beads.
garments: For yet another season, women’s wear
continues to embrace androgyny. Sexy, sleek black and
printed pant suits married masculine with feminine.
There was also a healthy dose of sportswear, with
everyone from Rihanna for Puma to Michael Kors showing
some love for the hoodie.
coverage: Designers sure didn’t skimp on volume.
Extra-long sleeves, shoes with sky-high soles, oversized
silhouettes, exaggerated turtleneck sweaters,
long-haired fur pieces and the fullest of full skirts
doubled the drama at some runway shows. (Marc Jacobs, we’re
looking at you.)