Joggers ($99) for sale at Tankfarm in Glendale,
ANGELES ó The American male has long been judged a
uniform of the Silicon Valley guy, after all, is a
hoodie and T-shirt. Khakis and golf shirts show up on
days other than casual Fridays.
millennial guys in their 20s and 30s are transforming
the menswear business, inspired by well-dressed male
celebrities and TV shows such as "Mad Men"
that celebrate bygone eras when pocket squares were de
are more in tune and more interested in looking good and
sharp," said Will McKittrick, an industry analyst
at IBISWorld. "The younger generation is entering
the workforce and beginning to spend a lot more on
womenís clothing still sells more, menswear has been
expanding at a faster clip.
the last two years, menís retail sales jumped 4.1% to
$101.8 billion, eclipsing the 2.8% rise to $150.1
billion on the female side, according to research firm
Euromonitor. By 2017, menswear is expected to climb 8.3%
to $110.3 billion, compared with 4.2% to $156.5 billion
facing a clogged market for the ladies are now sprinting
to outfit the modern man.
brands including Prada and Hermes have opened boutiques
just for men. Nordstrom dropped $350 million in August
to buy online menís styling service Trunk Club.
California has become a major hub for emerging menswear
brands that deliver a distinct spin on menís fashions.
regionís affinity for street wear and its deep
manufacturing base have nurtured dozens of budding
designers for guys. When GQ magazine, considered a style
bible by fashionable fellows, named its best new
menswear designers of 2014, two out of the four were
based in Los Angeles.
surge in menís apparel has even spawned its own lingo.
have dubbed the demographic driving the growth as the
Henry (high earner, not rich yet) and the Yummy (young,
looks that Henrys and Yummies are adopting to replace
saggy jeans and T-shirts with ironic sayings? Among the
archetypes: the modern gent (mixes suits with patterns
and textures), the urban dapper dude (wears expensive
street wear such as leather sweatpants), the upscale
casual guy (goes for high-quality, high-cost basics) and
the lumbersexual (a twist on the term "metrosexual"
referring to guys in plaid shirts with well-groomed
labels are not only delivering fresh takes on the male
look, theyíre also rethinking how men want to shop.
J. Crew, which has opened a dozen male-only shops in the
last few years, cutting down on the number of decisions
men have to make is a key reason those boutiques have
worked, said Frank Muytjens, head of menswear design.
Guys trust that J. Crew has done all the
"weeding" to offer the best styles, he said.
guy doesnít have time to think anymore. We did that
for him," Muytjens said, adding that J. Crew has
come a long way since he started there 11 years ago.
"We didnít have separate menís stores," he
recalled, "and I always felt that guys had to scale
walls to get to their departments."
& Co., which opened its second shop in November at
the Americana at Brand in Glendale, Calif., is what
co-founder John Anderson described as "Anthropologie
for men," referring to the eclectic retailer that
carries womenís clothing, accessories and home goods.
offers clothing and shoes from its own label and
classics such as Pendleton, along with items such as
pocket knives, beard oil and pomade. The company also
occasionally hosts whiskey and microbrew tastings.
hate the mall," Anderson said. "They do not
want to go to 12 different stores to get what they
at Tankfarmís first store in Seal Beach, Calif., rose
40% in 2014 from the year before, while its online
business doubled, Anderson said. Tankfarm is opening a
third location in Huntington Beach in October and is
scouting for a fourth spot.
guys are stepping up their game, especially the younger
ones who are graduating college and not just scraping up
beer money," Anderson said. "This is just the
tip of the iceberg."
in the industry say the Southland is a prime spot for
starting and growing guy-focused brands.
is certainly kind of a movement taking place in Southern
California," said Aaron Lavee, co-founder of John
Elliott + Co, which was named by GQ last year as one of
the best menswear designers. Another brand that made the
list, surf-inspired M.Nii, is also based in L.A.
wear label En Noir, also lauded by the magazine, was
co-founded by San Diego native Rob Garcia. The designer
has since left the label to start a line under his own
name. En Noir produces some of its clothing in Los
said his label, with luxe offerings that include
sweatpants costing $288 apiece, has found that its male
shoppers are happy to spend extra to buy quality
clothing that they can wear on repeat ó thus avoiding
additional shopping trips.
guy will have a pair of jeans and a sweatshirt that he
will wear regularly," he said. "Spending $198
on a sweatshirt makes more sense when it becomes a daily
many young guys, Mitchell Holguin said his style has
evolved from an early devotion to teen retailers such as
Abercrombie & Fitch to more polished brands such as
J. Crew. The 26-year-old college student, who collects
photos of outfits he admires on the Internet, said he
spends about $200 a month on clothing.
come a long way," said Holguin, who was browsing at
the Americana at Brand shopping center with girlfriend
Haleh Farhan. "Heís a bigger shopaholic than
me!" Farhan joked.
nascent fashion interest from many American guys has a
fan in Rick Caruso, the sharply tailored magnate behind
Americana at Brand and the Grove in Los Angelesí
clothing is one of the fastest-growing categories at
Caruso properties, he said, with stores at the Grove and
the Americana enjoying double-digit sales growth in
menswear overall. J. Crew said its menís shop at the
Grove, which opened at the end of 2012, ranks in the top
five best-performing stores by sales for the retailer
who still shines his shoes every morning, said his best
advisor on up-and-coming brands is his 23-year-old son
Greg, who is making a documentary on menswear called
"Making the American Man."
the younger male driving sales," he said.
"They know the products they want, they know the
kinds of shirts and jeans. They do the research."
said heís on the lookout to bring in more menswear
brands and potentially even barbershops.
I started building shopping centers 20 years ago ...
menswear always struggled because men didnít spend
that much time shopping," he said. "Now guys
are spending more time not only on clothes but