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NEW YORK
- Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs may be the
instantly recognizable names in American fashion today.
But when it comes to the future establishment, Alexander
Wang will surely be on the list.
At just
27 years old, he is the reigning superstar of New York
Fashion Week. His runway shows are celebrity-studded,
and his after-parties are not to be missed. He has a $2
million Tribeca loft, his collection is sold in 500
venues worldwide, and he has already attracted the
attention of the world’s biggest luxury group, LVMH Moët
Hennessy Louis Vuitton. (At one point, it was even
rumored that he was a contender to replace John Galliano
as creative director at Dior, considered to be one of
the top jobs in fashion.)
Famous
fans Alicia Keys, Courtney Love and Lea Michele were
front row at his runway show in September, while Amanda
Hearst, Christina Ricci and Penn Badgley were among the
guests at the self-avowed party boy’s
fraternity-themed after-party, which featured Jell-O
shots, keg stands and performances by Odd Future and
Tyler, the Creator.
Perhaps
more than any other American designer working today,
Wang is a product of his times, creating collections for
a generation raised on the Internet, extreme sports and
sexually suggestive imagery and for whom nostalgia means
1990s grunge.
“I like
energy and commotion and absorbing things,” Wang said
recently at his downtown Manhattan studio. “I’m
always texting, watching TV and talking on the phone,
even when my friends are over.”
Like Tom
Ford in his Gucci years, Wang sees the humor in bad
taste. Stiletto sandals with mud flaps, blazers
decorated with metal piercings, sparkly Lurex pants and
handbags with enough studding to tick off airport
security are all part of his sexy-with-a-wink aesthetic.
But Wang also designs a lot of really wearable pieces,
such as the washed silk sweat pants and ponte knit
blazers in his T by Alexander Wang basics line and the
botanical print parachute dresses and color-block
intarsia knits from the spring 2012 runway collection he
showed last month.
“Although
his runway shows are very directional and very urban,
the collections are easy to translate,” says Ken
Downing, fashion director of Neiman Marcus. “Whether
it’s sexy jersey dresses with high-low hems, leather
jackets over sportswear pieces or flirty, feminine
dresses, he’s the (must-have) item guy.”
Wang’s
favorite haunts aren’t museums or art galleries, but
the Kmart drugstore department, Paragon Sports, Home
Depot and fetish stores.
“I
don’t disregard anything,” the designer says, his
long hair, sweet face and T-shirt-and-jeans uniform
belying the tough and trashy image of his brand, which
includes men’s and women’s wear and accessories.
“If I think something is really ugly, I want to find
out why and I want to play with it. I want to challenge
myself and make it work.”
In many
ways, Wang represents the tension between the past and
the future in fashion, between a slow, more rarefied,
artisanal luxury and a fast, made-in-China, attainable
luxury.
His
prices are well below those of most designer collections
— $182 for a jersey dress, $315 for a panne velvet
maxi skirt, $585 for a silk streamer dress and up to
$3,995 at the top end for a leather and angora poncho
straight from the runway. Accessories include $595 pumps
with rabbit tails and the bestselling $875 studded Rocco
bag.
“He
gets his time and his contemporaries,” says designer
Diane von Furstenberg, who is president of the Council
of Fashion Designers of America.
Wang
launched his line in 2007, gaining attention for his
runway shows styled by the L.A.-based model Erin Wasson.
At first, his clothes channeled the “off-duty model
look” — ripped jean shorts over tights, burnout
T-shirts and motorcycle jackets.
His
collections grew to be more sophisticated. The
well-received spring 2009 runway show tapped into a
colorful, 1980s-tinged “Miami Vice” vibe, with
athletic influences and body-revealing styles emerging
as Wang signatures.
For a guy
who admittedly has never been a big athlete, Wang
returns often to sports references, such as the Bruce
Weber images of football players that influenced his
spring 2010 collection and the NASCAR uniforms
patchworked with sponsor logos and stadium seating
charts that were motifs for spring 2012.
“Growing
up, the only sport I took was tennis, because I wanted
to spend time at the country club,” he says, laughing
at himself. “But I like the idea of taking something I
have such a distant connection to and finding out more
about it. If I was a varsity athlete, I would probably
feel strongly about how a uniform has to be worn. There
is something about not knowing that makes it more
interesting.”
Wang, who
is of Taiwanese descent, was born and raised in San
Francisco. His parents represent the ultimate American
success story, working their way up from service jobs to
owning their own plastics manufacturing business.
During
his teenage years, he lived with his two older siblings
while his parents moved their company to China. Wang
attended the posh Drew School in San Francisco, with the
likes of Samantha, Victoria and Vanessa Traina,
daughters of novelist Danielle Steel and her ex-husband
John Traina.
Wang
credits the Traina sisters’ throwaway attitude toward
designer clothing (ah, to be a rich teenager) with
helping to shape his idea of casual luxury. “They had
access to anything and everything, and yet there was
always a strong sense of personalization and individual
thought that went into what they wore,” he says. (Wang
bonded with Victoria over a pair of Gucci shoes from
which she had cut the ankle straps, and they are still
close friends.)
He
started making clothes when he was 15 and had his first
fashion show at the 1999 wedding of his brother Dennis
(now his chief financial officer) and sister-in-law
Aimie Wang (now his chief executive). He showed 30 looks
with hair and makeup and dressed the bride, who changed
nine times throughout the night, at one point wearing a
sexy spin on a traditional Chinese cheongsam in red
satin with a super-high slit.
Wang
moved to New York City to attend the Parsons School of
Design in 2002 but quickly became restless for
real-world experience. He dropped out and began
interning — at Marc Jacobs, Teen Vogue and Vogue. By
2004, he had a plan for his own label. “I was helping
pull (clothing) at the magazines, and I knew what they
were looking for and what they couldn’t find at the
right price.”
He put
together a line of cashmere sweaters in six weeks. They
were oversized, androgynous “boyfriend sweaters”
priced to sell at $295 to $500, one with an intarsia
design on the front of a girl smoking. At his first
trade show, Wang left with 80 orders.
“I
wanted the pieces to have the integrity of a designer
product, but for my friends to be able to afford
them,” he said. “There was a disconnect between what
they saw and read about in magazines and what they could
buy.”
That’s
where Wang saw an opportunity. And he hasn’t stopped
moving since, even bounding out at full speed onto the
runway when he takes his bow after each show.
In
December, Wang tapped Rodrigo Bazan, formerly of Marc
Jacobs, as the first president of his company. In March,
he launched a comprehensive e-commerce site (the Web is
the biggest driver of growth for the brand, Wang says).
The same month, he opened his first bricks-and-mortar
boutique in New York with such decorative flourishes as
a fox fur hammock and an industrial cage used for
rotating installations. Another store is slated to open
next year in Beijing, and a home accessories line is
also on the horizon.
“Now
more than ever, the world is changing,” Wang says.
“It’s not just about being a designer. It’s about
being a creative person who can oversee an entire brand,
down to the stores and the people who sell the
product.”
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