DESIGNER
MERRY-GO-ROUND: Stefano Pilati was out at Yves Saint
Laurent and in at Ermenegildo Zegna. Versus, Azzaro and
Vionnet lost their designers, and Jil Sander was back in
at Jil Sander, after Raf Simons left that label for Dior.
Nicolas Ghesquiere exited Balenciaga, the house he
helped relaunch practically from the ashes after he took
the helm as creative director in 1997. Less than a month
later, Alexander Wang was named to replace him. Betsey
Johnson went out of business in April — and now is
reinventing herself under new parent company Steve
Madden. (A year-long whirlwind.)
ONE-UPSMANSHIP:
The scenery at runway shows now rivals that of Hollywood
blockbuster productions. In 2010, Karl Lagerfeld set the
bar high when he brought in a 265-ton iceberg from
Sweden to use as a set for his Chanel runway show at
Paris’ Grand Palais. Since then, it seems like
designers have been trying to top that stunt —
Lagerfeld included. In January, he built a life-size
airplane to house his Chanel couture show in Paris. In
March, Louis Vuitton’s Marc Jacobs countered with an
$8-million steam train that rolled into a tent in front
of Paris’ Louvre. In September, Kaiser Karl was at it
again, with an installation of 13 wind turbines that
Jacobs quickly topped with a four-escalator installation
by French conceptual artist Daniel Buren, which created
a graphic — and, dare we say, quite moving — fashion
spectacle. (January, March, October)
POP
INSPIRATION: Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture collection,
inspired by the recently deceased Amy Winehouse, came
down the runway too soon — January — for
still-grieving fans and family. Gaultier continued to
mine the pop music theme with his ready-to-wear show in
October, an ode to 1980s juke box heroes complete with
models decked out like Madonna, Grace Jones and other
music stars. (January and October)
ENGLISH
REMIX: For New York Fashion Week’s resident patrician,
Ralph Lauren, "Downton Abbey"-as-inspiration
was a natural. Not only was the designer’s fall 2012
collection inspired by the hit drama, but Lauren later
signed on as national corporate sponsor for the
long-running "Masterpiece" series. (February)
JUICY
SEQUEL: Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor, who
brought the world the Juicy Couture velour tracksuit,
debuted their new collection Skaist Taylor, which they
described as "California eccentric," in a
garage underneath Lincoln Center at New York Fashion
Week. (February)
EYE
CANDY: Celebrities are all-important for attracting
attention nowadays. Say what you will about Kanye West
and Kim Kardashian, and goodness knows we’ve all said
something, but there’s no denying that the two are one
of the world’s most fashion-conscious couples. Both
have done design work or at least lent their names to
fashion lines, and they made front-row appearances at
runway shows throughout the year. West seems content to
be sitting on the sidelines for now, having scaled back
his ambitions to be a designer himself. (March,
September)
LIFE
AFTER CRUISE: Katie Holmes tried to move beyond her
divorce from Tom Cruise by unveiling her Holmes &
Yang collection at New York Fashion Week for the first
time. Co-created with stylist Jeanne Yang, the
collection was about elevating casual dress. (September)
VIRTUAL
RUNWAY: Google co-founder Sergey Brin walked the runway
with designer Diane von Furstenberg, using the platform
to launch Glass by Google, a head-mounted, augmented
reality technology. (September)
RUNWAY
REVENGE: Liberty Ross walked tall on the runway at
Alexander Wang’s high-profile New York Fashion Week
show, proving to her wandering husband, director Rupert
Sanders, actress Kristen Stewart (with whom he had his
fling) and a universe of scandal-gawkers that there’s
life after infidelity. The following month, the
chastened Stewart attended the Balenciaga runway show in
Paris as the new face of the house’s Florabotanica
perfume. (September, October)
THE
SLAP HEARD ‘ROUND THE WORLD: When New York fire
marshals ordered the removal of 60 seats at the Zac
Posen runway show, tensions were running high. So high,
in fact, that while Lynn Tesoro, the co-founder of Posen’s
PR firm HL Group, was trying to reorganize the seating
arrangement, she was slapped by Jennifer Eymere, Jalouse
magazine’s fashion editor. Tesoro has since filed a
$1-million suit against Eymere, her sister and mother
(who were allegedly also involved in the altercation).
(September)
BATTLE
FOR THE FUTURE OF FRENCH FASHION: This year’s October
Paris Fashion Week saw ready-to-wear debuts at two
storied French fashion houses, Raf Simons for Dior and
Hedi Slimane for Yves Saint Laurent. The designers’
approaches couldn’t have been more different. Simons
rewrote the codes of French design for a new generation
with a collection that was all about color, movement,
lightness and legs. Slimane paid homage to Saint Laurent’s
rich hippie look with a collection that was more like a
greatest hits album than a revolutionary new sound.
(October)
NEVER-ENDING
RUNWAY: A new Guinness World Record was set in Hong Kong
for the longest runway: two miles. The show, a
collaboration between the Danish Fashion Institute and
the Hong Kong Designer’s Association, featured 346
models who had to walk 45 minutes to complete the trek
down the pink catwalk next to Victoria Harbour.
(December)