 |
|
Melinda
and Louis Whisler carry on a 40-year legacy of
designing and handcrafting all kinds of
footwear. "It's an art form, a lost art
form," Melinda Whisler says of their trade
in Seattle, Washington.
|
SEATTLE -
The handmade mock Oxfords, in cognac-colored calfskin,
will be Martin Stieglitz’s first pair of dress shoes
in six years.
The retired Boeing manager has chronic foot problems,
yet he wouldn’t be caught dead in a pair of orthopedic
shoes. There was a time when it seemed he was doomed to
wear nothing but athletic shoes, as he did on a recent
trip to Paris.
Then he heard about Melinda and Louis Whisler.
‘‘It’s just impossible to find dressier shoes
off the shelf,’’ Stieglitz, 64, said as Melinda
Whisler knelt at his feet, checking the fit of the
Bellevue, Wash., man’s so-far-sole-less right Oxford.
From their cramped, cluttered shop called Rubaiyat,
tucked between a barber shop and a Mexican restaurant on
James Street in downtown Seattle, the Whislers are
carrying on a 40-year legacy of designing and
handcrafting sandals, mules, pumps, Mary Janes, boots
and casual slip-ons.
With a 60-year-old Italian sewing machine, a grind
sander and decades of know-how, the couple have brought
their ‘‘wearable art’’ in flamboyant leathers
and exotic skins to rock stars, famous athletes and an
anonymous Microsoft executive - not Bill Gates - who
once ordered a pair of red Superman boots.
Their shoes aren’t cheap, but they’re made to
last. And the Whislers see themselves as ‘‘shoe
artisans,’’ among the last of a dying tradition of
custom shoemakers who still follow traditional methods
with a shared philosophy and social conscience to fight
what they call ‘‘overpriced, throwaway shoes.’’
‘‘This is our small contribution to what’s real
in a cardboard, synthetic world,’’ said Louis
Whisler, 68. ‘‘We’re trying to do something with
gravitas, something with substance, something real in a
superficial world.’’
A LOVE OF SHOES
Louis Whisler is the son of Hungarian immigrants who
owned a shoe store in Ohio. As a young man he worked for
a large shoe company and traveled around Europe, seeing
how some of the finest designer shoes were made and
bringing trends from London, Amsterdam and Paris to the
United States.
In 1964, on a bus in Monterey, Calif., he spied
Melinda, a young San Francisco Bay area native with an
artistic streak.
‘‘Every time the bus would stop, she’d slide
into me and say, ‘Whoops!’’’ Louis Whisler
recalled.
They were married six weeks later. They have seven
children, and their 12th grandchild is due in the
spring.
The husband-and-wife team shares a love for shoes, so
they blended Melinda’s artistry and Louis’
shoemaking know-how to build their family business.
Eventually, the Whislers had three stores in the San
Francisco area. Over the years, they say, they’ve shod
rocker Tina Turner, opera star Renee Fleming and
ice-skater Peggy Fleming; and they put Grace Slick of
Jefferson Airplane fame into a pair of reindeer boots.
But in time they were priced out of the Bay area. So
they packed up and headed north to Seattle in the early
1990s, settling on Capitol Hill. When rent there became
too pricey, they moved to their 440-square-foot spot at
219 James St., around the corner from the King County
Courthouse.
In Seattle, their clients tend to be lawyers,
writers, artists and other professionals looking for
unique footwear they’re not about to spy on another
pair of feet. Customers participate in the design of
their shoes, choosing toe shapes and heel heights and
selecting from more than 80 colors of leather - or
lizard, alligator, python, shark and stingray.
A pair of shoes usually takes about six weeks to make
and ranges in price from $345 to $1,300 or more for
exotic skins.
Still, their $1,800 alligator shoes are a steal
considering stores in Los Angeles and New York charge
$3,500 and up, Louis Whisler quickly points out.
‘‘We like selling shoes everybody can afford,’’
he said.
A thin layer of leather dust coats everything in the
tiny shop.
Melinda Whisler, 62, measures customers’ feet and
uses a wax pencil, butcher paper and a razor blade to
create shoe patterns. She stitches the leather pieces
together, then passes the uppers off to her husband.
He spritzes the leather with water and lets it mull
overnight in a paper bag. Then, using pliers and a
hammer, Louis Whisler tacks the leather upper to a form.
They take the forms home to their Capitol Hill
apartment and bake them in a 110-degree oven for 20
minutes to shrink the leather just enough so that they
will form-fit to the customer’s feet.
Finally, the bottoms are grinded and the forms
removed. Louis Whisler pounds and glues the soles to the
bottoms and glues on molded, nylon heels.
‘‘It’s an art form, a lost art form,’’
Melinda Whisler says.
‘‘Nobody can do what she can do,’’ Louis
Whisler adds. ‘‘I do the pick-and-shovel work - she’s
the artist.’’
On Thursday, as Melinda Whisler and Martin Stieglitz
discussed tweaks to his $550 Oxfords, Stieglitz’s
wife, Ann, browsed the shop. She picked up a red leather
pump with black detailing.
‘‘There’s nothing I wouldn’t wear in here -
they’re just gorgeous,’’ she said. ‘‘I never
knew there was so much work, engineering and
craftsmanship (involved). This is craft and skill.’’
The Whislers announced that Stieglitz’s shoes would
be ready the first week of February - just in time for a
trip to California.
Ann Stieglitz kissed the top of her husband’s head
and smiled.
‘‘You can take me out,’’ she told him.
‘‘Ah, jeez,’’ he said with a grin. ‘‘Now
I have to take her to an expensive place.’’