Check out GQ’s February
issue and you’ll find an interesting picture. There,
on the ‘‘backstory’’ page, stand eight men, one
woman - the creative minds behind six young fashion
labels. The ‘‘Best New Menswear Designers in
America,’’ the magazine declared. They each wear
clothes that seem classic, but not cookie-cutter: plaid
shirts, rumpled sweaters, vests, a couple of blazers.
And not a tie among them.
‘‘This is the Class of 2008 - the ones to watch,’’
says GQ creative director Jim Moore.
Don’t read too much into the non-tieness. These
designers have no problem outfitting men for Wall Street
or weekends. Yeah, they offer suits - cut slim. And ties
- skinny ones, worn askew. The kind Holden Caulfield
might have worn slouching through Manhattan.
Yep, J.D. Salinger’s mischievous prepster
malcontent of ‘‘The Catcher in the Rye’’ seems
to have been the fit model for menswear designers this
year - upstart and old guard alike. Fall collections are
brimming with WASPy tradition: sensible gray suits,
cable sweaters, cords, herringbone, Donegal tweed,
clothes that take you from prep school to college to
Madison Avenue office. But always with that slightly
rebellious vibe.
‘‘We’re in a good moment for American style,’’
says Moore. ‘‘Designers have revisited the classics
and made them cool.’’
That was apparent last week, on Wednesday night, when
GQ threw a pre-Fashion Week bash for its anointed
newbies, offering a peek at their fall line-ups.
Obedient Sons (designed by Swaim Hutson and wife,
Christina) was perhaps the most Caulfieldian, with
fresh-outta-prep-school Continental jackets, shrunken
cardigans, and black tweed Rider pants (with leather
patches). A two-tone, gray tux jacket with shawl collar
looked perfect for someone uber-stylish - and up to no
good.
For more collegiate looks, there’s Steven Alan,
whose peacoats, down jackets over brushed cotton suits,
even bow-ties, come in guy-friendly shades - gray, navy,
pops of yellow. Spurr (by Simon Spurr) offers a metro
take, layering worsted wool vests and blazers with an
oversized oiled-cotton touring jacket.
Engineered Garments (by Daiki Suzuki) has the townies
covered, in flannel jackets, plaid work shirts, rumply
knits and slushy weather workboots. Rag and Bone (the
former denim line from Marcus Wainwright and David
Neville) has workwear, including suave, three-piece
Connery suits, and vests, vests, vests.
‘‘The vest should be a key item for fall,’’
suggests Tom Julian, director of trends at McCann
Erickson. Checks and plaids stay strong, he adds, as do
‘‘jackets that tell a story.’’
At Gilded Age - the last of GQ’s faves - the
jackets speak volumes, like the leather-trimmed coat
inspired by a vintage railroad conductor’s uniform.
The line (by Stefan Miljanic) looks plucked from the
early years of the Industrial Revolution. It’s made
that way, too. Super-soft knits are hand-crafted using
artisanal techniques, or vintage, recycled looms; the
organic denim and canvas pants are treated with plant
dyes, then worked over with sandpaper so they ‘‘look
like they’ve been through a war or two,’’ says
Miljanic.
More established lines expressed their own sense of
nostalgia.
Nautica kicked off Fashion Week Friday morning with a
sportswear regatta inspired by ice sailing - a ‘‘dangerous,
sexy sport,’’ says designer Mirian Lamberth. The
winners: peacoats (in cashmere, nylon), racy tech pants,
can’t-go-wrong cables (sweaters, hoodie, robe).
John Crocco at Perry Ellis led a hunting party, with
Britishy Norfolk jackets, lodge vests and unexpected,
‘‘exploded’’ prints - oversize windowpanes and a
great mongo snowflake sweater. ‘‘I’m not a hunter,’’
he said, laughing. ‘‘Those deer heads on the runway
are fake.’’
John Varvatos offered glimpses of fall at a recent
European presentation. Think Edwardian: nipped jackets
(herringbones, tweeds), stand-up collars, jauntily
tugged-at ties. Coats are narrow in the shoulder and
cashmere-soft; leather rocks, in antiqued silver and
pewter.
Later this month, a panel of editors and industry
experts will name one of the GQ faves top dog - the
winner gets $50,000 and a chance to create a collection
for Levi’s, plus mentorship from pros like Varvatos.
It’ll be a tough decision, says Moore.
‘‘Boy, they’re serious about clothes,’’ he
says. ‘‘Some of them are gonna turn into the next
Ralph Lauren.’’
Guess there’s nothing more classic than that.
For more than 100 years, Hickey Freeman has served
industry leaders from Wall Street to Washington,
Eisenhower to Gore. So it’s only fitting that in this
election year they should launch a new, high-end
Presidential Collection. Inspired by Ronald Reagan, the
line combines a more modern silhouette (trim waist, a
‘‘strong’’ - not ‘‘square’’ - shoulder)
with the ultimate in luxury materials (supersoft yarns
and microfibers, silk linings, genuine horn buttons from
England).
‘‘It’s like Microsoft Vista, the next level of
technology,’’ says designer Bruno Castagna.
The line starts small for spring, then blows out wide
for fall with suits, shirts, ties. Presidential
pricetags ($3,000 to $4,000) are about twice their
regular suit prices.
But, hey, you wouldn’t be the first presidential
type to suffer from deficit spending.
-Joseph V. Amodio