NEW YORK - The five-inch
heels are gone. The eyelashes are packed away. Designer
assistants have bagged the embroidered coats, flounced
skirts and feathers.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York is over.
The fall runway clothes of the week will not move
into stores until late summer, but never mind. The
conversation has already changed. The ideas offered here
almost immediately affected how people think about
style. Gradually you may begin to shift your own closet.
Fall clothes are lighter in weight, thanks apparently
to global warming. Natural waists have returned. So have
belts. Ruffles flourish.
Colors are rich and offbeat, and you could drown in a
sea of prints. Houndstooth patterns go forward. Add long
gloves to anything. And faux fur competes with real - a
piece thrown over a shoulder or a collar as a second
thought.
But another factor is part of the buzz: Some design
is complex and heavily detailed. The embroidery is
dazzling and fanciful. Paillette sequins and Lurex are
part of the embellishment, even on day clothes. Feathers
add a grand aura.
The eclectic shapes with extensive draping and
bubbling could be difficult to copy. The looks are
luxurious and likely to be expensive.
How do you look chic when the economy is shaky and
prices are high? We have some ideas about how to start
now.
Ralph Lauren’s runway looked like an English hunt
party scene with red buffalo check jackets, plaid
fishing vest and tams with single Yankee Doodle
feathers.
And when he emerged from behind the curtain in his
distressed leather jacket, he said he wanted to
celebrate America, in part, because of the presidential
election.
But we saw something else. Many were investment
pieces, the single purchase that fashion-minded
consumers with limited checkbooks choose to give their
wardrobes a stylish punch.
In uncertain times they are likely to buy with more
control and thought. A Lauren jacket is one suggestion.
But there are many other elements.
People will probably buy smarter and with more
control, says Constance White, fashion director of eBay.
She says that even in high-priced luxury lines, a
designer is likely to offer simple, more affordable
pieces. Choose one item or look for copies. With New
York behind them, many fashion pundits move on to the
next lap in London and Milan later this month, and then
France.
Stay tuned.
For now, we offer five elements that will give you an
edge without tapping into the price stratosphere.
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BELTS
For starters, it’s time to tuck in your shirt.
Designers love sashes and often a splashy belt. Cinch
and gold metallic belts popped up at Betsey Johnson.
Derek Lam put wide leather belts with pencil skirts and
tweed corset tops. At Ports 1961, belts tended to be
corset-wide. Monique Lhuillier liked jeweled belts.
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SHORT SWING JACKETS
Ralph Lauren’s plaid jackets were short, fitted to
the waist and had high, wrapped shawl collars and dolman
sleeves. We saw fitted riding jackets at Derek Lam. But
a jacket, flyaway or fitted - sometimes with cropped
sleeves, sometimes stopped short above the waist - was a
favorite.
Lam also showed a short sweater with bat sleeves and
high, fitted waist. The jackets were often paired with
cuffed cropped trousers.
Try combing thrift stores for bat wing or dolman
sleeves, which haven’t been popular for several
seasons.
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LAYERED SUMMER-WEIGHT CLOTHES
Hang on to your breezy, ruffled dresses. Keep the
flared skirt layered with airy fabrics. They will go
from warm to cold weather. A visitor at many of the
presentations last week would be hard-pressed to name
the season by color or fabric.
The Cynthia Steffe staff described the loosely
cropped cuffed pants as ‘‘seasonless.’’ But so
are the print chiffon bow blouse and poppy print
charmeuse dress.
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FLORAL PRINTS
You may already have a print dress or blouse in a
silk or weightless fabric. For fall, they become a bit
more abstract and complex. The dress with short puffed
sleeves and belt or sash was almost obligatory for
designers. The blouse is an easy toe dip in the water
that is ready to wear under a jacket.
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HATS
No kidding. Never mind the knit caps for warmth: They
are a style element. Betsey Johnson tapped into beatnik
berets. Ralph Lauren’s leopard print feathered tams
pumped up the sophistication quotient. And fedoras and
even Lawrence of Arabia billed caps set a mood. Hats are
a small way to up your savvy image.