sweater, Reiss, $180; navy trousers, Hugo Boss,
$180, both at Bloomingdale's.
new vibe is blowing through the menswear scene this
the corporate world, execs are trading in classic, boxy
suits for soft, tailored blazers and relaxed trousers in
soft herringbones and funky windowpane prints.
men with a more casual style have (thankfully) moved
beyond the slim-yet-droopy-backside jean to the fitted
jogger-and-custom-sweatshirt combo. How do they pull it
all together? With a sports jacket and velvet high-tops.
other words, fashionable guys spent most of 2016
building wardrobes to reflect the new fashion reality
— the tailored in-between.
are dressing down, but they are also dressing up,"
said Jian DeLeon, senior menswear editor for the global
trend forecasting firm WGSN. "It’s the
choose-your-own-adventure era in menswear. He’s trying
to figure out which rules he wants to break, depending
on what he’s feeling like and where he is in
dandies — since J.P. Morgan Chase’s decision in June
to allow employees to wear silk-blend chinos and
cashmere pullovers — are going more cazh. The new
breed of CEOs (Facebook’s Mark Zuckerberg and Tumblr’s
David Karp) don’t need stiff, classic looks to
have guys who are coming in ready to try something more
interesting and comfortable," said Matt Brown, vice
president and general manager of Saks Fifth Avenue in
fall, Saks introduced its seven office essentials: the
refined top (a dressier polo), the perfect (tailored)
pant, the hybrid shoe, the sporty suit, the clean
sneaker, the easy layer, and the leather bag.
idea is to mix a more casual look like a sneaker or a
pullover into his wardrobe mix," Brown said.
the same time, guys are using the tailored pant or
sporty suit to take their existing look up a notch. Men
also are going more custom, not only for the
three-button-blazer-and-vest-suit combos, but for their
athletic wear. After all, athleisure requires a better
guys have spent the last few years learning about
custom," said Brian Lipstein, the designer behind
Henry A. Davidsen. "Now they want the rest of their
wardrobe to feel just as nice."
retail landscape that’s wooing the Y chromosome is
paying off. According to the New York-based consumer
tracking service the NPD Group, U.S. menswear sales
continue to outpace women’s, having increased 3
percent this year over last year, from $62.5 billion to
$64.4 billion, with the fastest-growing categories being
two-piece athletic sets and accessories.
designers have taken note. In the last year, many of the
most popular collections in Paris, Milan, and New York
have opted to show menswear on their women’s runways.
month, Calvin Klein’s creative director, Raf Simons,
announced his decision to show both collections on one
runway, joining Gucci, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith,
and Burberry in the practice.
in men’s fashion has come a long way since the days of
the metrosexual — the original style-obsessed dude
who, in the early 2000s, emerged from the ashes of the
sloppy ’90s wearing a very fitted suit and carrying an
typical guy largely ignored this look. But it wasn’t
long before the ways of the hipster (favoring all things
fitted while twirling his ponytail into a man bun) or
the lumbersexual (choosing beards and plaid shirts)
caught on. With each trendy dude reincarnation, men’s
fashion has blossomed on runways — and Instagram.
as we stand at the cusp of 2017, it seems the old
fashion fears are gone, whether we’re talking about
guys who suit up, tend toward the androgynous, don
athletic attire, or — amazing as it may sound — like
all three. His wardrobe can take him from day to night.
Sound familiar, ladies?
finally happened is that guys in basketball like Dwyane
Wade and Chris Paul began adopting these looks in their
own way, and they became universal and aspirational,"
said Sabir Peele, a menswear brand consultant and
founder of Men’s Style Pro.
just started to understand, ‘I can do all of this. I
can be sporty or wear a suit like a corporate guy. I can
create my own look.’ "
this new experimentation came an excess of new
accessories this year: dotted pocket squares, solid knit
ties, smart fedoras, jackets with custom linings. And
the shoes — whether shined to dress up or clean
sneakers to dress down — pull everything together.