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Stylish.
Comfortable. Warm. We love the hoodie. But over the last
few years, the wardrobe staple has gotten a bad rap.
Hooded
sweats are now so linked to all things nefarious that
last week, retired federal judge
James T. Giles
recommended banning them from
South Philadelphia High School
in response to the racial violence that occurred there
in December between Asian and African-American students.
The word
hoodie was used five times in his 31-page report, which
suggested outlawing the apparel because it hides kids'
faces, making it hard to identify them. Philadelphia
School Superintendent
Arlene Ackerman
later said she agreed with the suggestion, and would
consider banning the hooded sweatshirts districtwide.
When
there's violence on, or off, school property, somebody
should be punished. Giles' report doesn't place blame on
either faction, but it's clear that trouble had been
brewing at the high school for longer than that day.
So my
question is: Are hoodies in more hot water than the
hoodlums?
Fernando Gallard
, school district spokesman, says banning hoodies is
more about safety than fashion choices.
"We
have cameras in the schools and there are occasions that
the students will put their hoodies up when they don't
want to be identified," Gallard said. "It's
not too much to ask if they want to wear a jacket or
shirt with a hood that they take it off when they go to
school and wait until they get out of school to put it
on."
Philadelphia
is not alone. Other districts have banned the sweatshirt
for the same reason. But does it work?
"I
think it's stupid to try to ban hoodies," said
Chuck Williams
, director of
Temple University's
Center for the Prevention of School-Aged Violence
. "They are a practical, versatile piece of apparel
that's very utilitarian. You can't blame clothing for
inappropriate behavior."
Baggy
jeans. The white T. Now the hoodie. It seems a constant
indictment of hip-hop culture.
There was
a time when hoodies were simply a sweatshirt we wore
when we wanted to work out, run errands, or — before
the Snuggie — curl up on our couch.
After
all, the hoodie first crossed paths with pop culture in
"Rocky," the down-and-out fighter sparring in
the rain, jogging, his gray hoodie over his head. In
addition to looking masculine, the hoodie symbolized the
fighter retreating into himself, focusing on his work,
blending into the background.
Later,
hoodies made a cultural comeback when rap trio Run-DMC
made them popular in the early 1980s. The Queens-based
rappers rhymed about their Shell Top adidas, Lee jeans,
and gold chains, but their quiet fashion constant was
the black hoodie — then, hood down.
In 1990,
the hip-hop style met boxing garb when rapper LL Cool J
wore a hoodie in his video for the hit single "Mama
Said Knock You Out." With his hoodie over his head,
Cool J grabbed the mike and reestablished his role as a
hard-core rapper.
After
that, the hoodie was pretty much the hip-hop uniform.
From Tribe Called Quest to Snoop Dogg to the Notorious
B.I.G. to Digable Planets — everybody wore (and rapped
about) hoodies. A search of the word hoodie on
lyrics007.com resulted in at least 10 full pages of
songs that reference the sweatshirt.
"I
mean everybody was rocking hoodies," said
James Peterson
, an assistant professor of English at
Bucknell University
.
For a
while, hoodies were just a friendly hip-hop accessory
— that was, until
Staten Island
-based rappers
Wu-Tang Clan
, who, in their lyrics, described putting on their
hoodies before embarking on less-than-role-model
behavior. They were the first to look like the Grim
Reaper, hoods up and smoke clouds looming over their
heads.
But that
evil vibe didn't spread into the mainstream. Fashion
wasn't focused on the hoodie — yet.
Later in
the 1990s, hoodies made way for sports jerseys. In
winter, however, they were paired with — what else?
— the beloved hoodie.
And then
early in the new millennium, hoodies got their fashion
due. They weren't an accessory but the main part of the
ensemble, largely because of hip-hop renaissance man
Pharrell Williams
and designer Nigo's Bathing Ape hoodies. These
sweatshirts came in bold shades, and although they were
popular with urban youth, they bordered on tacky.
Knockoffs multiplied.
At the
same time, hip-hop culture was continuing to expand into
the skateboarding community and the goth kids. It didn't
matter if you were black or white or male or female.
With the rise of Juicy Couture, sweats became the most
accepted form of sportswear, and eventually we saw a
revival of '80s brands, including the infamous adidas
track suits. Heads were covered everywhere.
And why
not? Pulling your hood up isn't any different from
wearing a baseball hat, donning sunglasses, or plugging
in earphones. It covers, it comforts, and it hides —
pretty standard teenage behavior.
Unfortunately,
the advantage of the hoodie, especially for black men,
has also been its downfall.
As hoodie
became a household word and a wardrobe must, it was
inevitable that any crime involving a kid might also
involve the sweatshirt. It hasn't helped that
Philadelphia
police officers have been killed by men wearing hoodies.
"It
became the uniform," Williams said. "People
are assuming that a young black man dressed in baggy
jeans, sneakers, and a hoodie is synonymous with crimes,
so the clothing becomes criminalized."
What's
sadder is that for many of the city's most disadvantaged
kids, hoodies aren't a fashion statement but their
winter coat. Williams has seen some of his students
layer hoodie over hoodie this brutal winter because they
didn't have anything else to wear. Take that away, and
many teens will have less for bundling up. You also
strip away their sense of protection.
Of
course, in school hallways, they'll find something else
under which to hide.
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