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Nancy
Wallace waits for the anesthesia to take effect
before an injection of permanent makeup ink on
her lip, at A Perfect Line Academy of Permanent
Cosmetics in Millbrae, California.
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MILLBRAE, Calif. - No one said looking good is
supposed to be painless.
That maxim rang especially true as Julie Wallace
leaned over to tattoo the outline of Nancy Wallace’s
lips with ink the color of Jamaican Rum.
For the most part, it was quiet inside A Perfect Line
Academy of Permanent Cosmetics, except for the soft hum
of Wallace’s permanent make-up pen.
Wallace, 29, used one gloved hand to steady the lip,
while the other lowered the tool’s needle to blend the
color in.
Then she pulled back.
‘‘You’ve got color!’’ Wallace said to the
patient - who happened to be her mother.
Cathy Klemz peered in for a closer look.
‘‘It doesn’t look clowny at all,’’ said
Klemz, a permanent makeup technician and trainer. ‘‘It
looks nice and very natural.’’
The process of getting one’s lips outlined
typically takes as long as two hours and plenty of
topical cream to numb the pain.
On a recent morning, the younger Wallace went in for
a refresher course, while in the next room, Deborah Ann
(who goes by just her first name) practiced different
types of brows on a pig’s ear.
Both Wallace and Deborah Ann studied under Klemz, who
has practiced micro-pigmentation or cosmetic tattooing
for the last 15 years.
Usually, women go to her to get their eyebrows,
eyelids, and lips enhanced. Klemz also offers
reconstructive areola work for breast cancer-patients
and puts on facial beauty marks for younger women.
She opened her academy in July 2007 and has trained
six students so far. Klemz - who was raised in Millbrae,
Calif., but now lives in Hayward, Calif. - said her
school is the only one of its kind in San Mateo County,
Calif. Her business is certified under the San Mateo
County Board of Health.
The demand for permanent cosmetics has risen over the
last 12 years. Typical clients are older women who want
to look more ‘‘refreshed,’’ Deborah Ann said.
The brow tends to fade as people age, leading some
older women to want to have their brows filled in. Women
also like the convenience that permanent makeup brings,
allowing them to use less time to get ready in the
morning.
The tattoo will fade over time and needs to get
touched up every couple of years, because the ink doesn’t
go deep into the skin. For clients, procedures range
from $400 to $700.
At the academy, Klemz’s students first practice on
mannequin heads and pig ears before moving on to their
models. For certification, Klemz requires 35 hours of
home study and 50 hours in the office.
Julie Wallace has been certified since September. The
San Bruno, Calif., resident hopes to open her own
business called ‘‘Bella Faccia’’ - which means
beautiful face in Italian - somewhere in San Mateo
County.
Wallace understands her clients’ pain. She’s had
her eyelids done and experienced the discomfort of the
healing process. But she still wants to get her lips
done.
Wallace admitted to being nervous the first time she
worked on a model.
‘‘Once I started, I saw how it went in the skin
and the outcome of a couple of dots,’’ she said.
‘‘It kind of settled (me). It was like starting to
ride a bike.’’
In the end, Nancy Wallace approved of her daughter’s
work. By Friday, her lips were no longer swollen.
‘‘They’re pretty normal and a little tender,’’
Wallace said. ‘‘I’m really happy with my lips.’’