CHARLOTTE, N.C.
— No matter where she goes, Barbara Damrosch can find herself
talking with someone about the rewards of growing fresh, wholesome
foods at home and becoming less dependent on other sources.
It’s a
lifestyle that was popular in the 1960s and ‘70s. Today a natural
food movement has re-emerged as the nation’s ecology and health
force us to tally things being lost to convenience.
Nutrients and
fuel use can be tradeoffs when foods travel long distances to reach
us. Pesticides and food waste also take a toll.
As measures of
the pros and cons continue, many people are going off-grid for food.
Others are puttering in the soil for the joy — and the flavor — of
a home-based harvest.
"There is a
new awareness of the value of homegrown food," said Damrosch,
co-author of the newly released "Four Season Farm Gardener’s
Cookbook." "We’re trying to make it easier for people to
get out there and grow their own food."
Damrosch’s
husband, Eliot Coleman, has been farming in Maine for more than 45
years. Coleman, 74, started what is now Four Season Farm in 1968.
Today, the
operation occupies less than two acres but provides enough food for a
farm stand that is open in June through September, a mobile stand for
farmers markets, as well as a year-round wholesale business.
He shares his
expertise at extending the growing season with home cooks, chefs and
various TV audiences, so they can have access to local food for more
of the year, as he does.
Damrosch, 70,
came to the farm in 1991, the year she married Coleman. She has
emerged as a champion of gardening as a central part of family and
community life, even as big corporate farms grew and overshadowed
small, local agriculture such as theirs.
Their family
garden is a showcase of the plant diversity that is considered vital
to a healthy ecosystem but frightfully lacking in large-scale
agriculture. They grow old, heirloom varieties alongside newer
hybrids.
The couple’s
new book (Workman Publishing) includes pictures of their gardens,
growing tips and recipes that Damrosch created with produce from their
fields.
"The deep
green of the spinach and bluish cast of the broccoli leaves tell us we’ve
fed these plants well, and that they will feed us well in
return," the couple write in the book.
In her weekly
column for The Washington Post, called "A Cook’s Garden,"
Damrosch shares pictures of her home-grown vegetables and fruits with
the pride of a parent posting her babies’ pictures.
At a time when
digital automation makes so many chores seem effortless, the
prerequisite of toiling for weeks or months to grow one’s own food
seems too costly for many people, especially when a supermarket is on
the way home.
Damrosch says
that even the smallest plot can be an abundant source of food for much
of the year. The book includes tips for making gardening manageable
and efficient, even for those with limited time.
For Damrosch,
the garden is a path to better flavor, better nutrition and perhaps
hope that more of our great-grandchildren will want to know the
magical flavor of food grown in the backyard.
The
transformation of pretty herbs and tomatoes to food for the table, as
illustrated in the book, is perhaps the best argument that we are
missing something special when we don’t harvest from our land or at
least buy from a neighboring farm.
"People are
looking for stuff that’s real and not diluted with chemicals,"
Damrosch said. "It doesn’t taste the same."