If crow's feet are
beginning to crisscross your face, but you haven't unleashed
retinol on them, new scientific evidence might prod you to
consider doing so.
Potent prescription
forms of retinoic acid (tretinoin), such as Retin-A, remain
the gold standard for anti-aging benefits, reducing the
appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, discoloration and other
sundry signs of sun damage, dermatologists say.
But over-the-counter
vitamin A formulations, particularly retinol, are gaining skin
cred. Two studies published in scientific journals in the past
year suggest that topical retinol packs more line-fighting
power than originally believed, at lower doses than were
previously studied. Bonus: Retinol typically causes less
irritation and redness — and costs less — than
prescription retinoic acid.
One clinical study
reported last year in the journal Skin Pharmacology and
Physiology concluded that 0.1 percent of retinol improved
fine-line appearance and skin tone after 12 weeks and did not
trigger significant irritation. Improvements continued
throughout the 36-week study.
Previous studies
focused on retinol formulations of 0.4 percent and more, doses
that can cause skin irritation.
"Now we know
that over-the-counter retinol can have clinically beneficial
effects without significant side effects," said Dr. Alan
Logan, a licensed naturopathic physician who has written
skin-care books with medical doctors.
Not all brands
disclose the percentage of retinol. Logan suggests comparing
labels to see where retinol falls on the ingredients list.
(Higher equals more.)
If you're new to
retinol, start with a lower concentration and less frequent
use, said dermatologist Howard Sobel, founder of the DDF
(Doctor's Dermatologic Formula) skin care line. Sobel notes
that retinols are not recommended for use during pregnancy and
reminds users to wear sunscreen. Read all the directions on
retinol packaging.
RoC Retinol Correxion
Deep Wrinkle Night Cream has a good reputation among
dermatologists. $21.99 for 1 ounce; drugstore.com
Perlabella PureDose
Pearls are gel capsules designed to protect the retinol serum
from light and air. Once applied, the retinol is gradually
released to minimize irritation. The face product has .075
percent retinol; the eye product has .03 percent. $19.99 for
28 capsules; walgreens.com
DDF Retinol
Energizing Moisturizer combines retinol with protein extracts
and antioxidants. $88 for 1.7 ounces; drugstore.com
Intensive Deep
Wrinkle Treatment with MMPi-20 and Retinol by New York
dermatologist Patricia Wexler is designed to stimulate cell
turnover, minimize the appearance of wrinkles and pores, and
moisturize. $60 for 1 ounce; bathandbodyworks.com;
800-756-5005
Philosophy On a Clear
Day Retinol Clarifying Lotion blends 0.075 percent retinol,
hyaluronic acid and cucumber extract to improve the skin's
texture and clarity and minimize the appearance of pores and
discoloration. The retinol is gradually released to minimize
irritation. $40 for 0.75 ounce; philosophy.com