neighbor had to replace a malfunctioning hot water
heater just two days before a nearby relative was forced
to do the same thing.
it was a coincidence, but it made everyone who heard
about it check out their own hot water heaters, to see
if the ghost was about to be given up there as well.
I thought it might be wise to write a bit here about
traditional tank hot water heaters, because they have
been known to break without warning.
following advice is from what manufacturer A.O. Smith
calls its "university." My plumbers, past and
present, have installed only A.O. Smith or Bradford
White heaters in my houses, so what they say goes:
water pressure at the drain valve or the hose bib. If itís
above 80 pounds per square inch, install a
pressure-reducing valve. (Call a plumber for this.)
protect appliances, most experts recommend setting the
pressure-reducing valve at 50 to 60 psi.
for an expansion tank, which is required by plumbing
codes for closed plumbing systems. Operating a water
heater on a closed system without an expansion tank will
damage the heater and other appliances.
the expansion tank with air before installing on a
cold-water line. The air pressure should match the water
valves ó temperature and pressure-relief valves ó
per instructions on the label. Valves will drip if the
water pressure is too high, or due to thermal expansion
on a closed plumbing system.
and flush. Turn off the cold-water supply and open the
drain valve. Open the temperature/pressure-relief valve.
Drain two to three gallons of water. If the water is
milky, drain entire tank.
the drain valve and open the cold-water supply valve.
Open a hot-water faucet and let hot water run three
minutes to make sure all the air is out of the tank
before returning it to service.
the anode rod. This reduces corrosion and extends the
life of the heater. You should have a plumber check the
anode rod at least every three years, depending on local
call the plumber.