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Your place: Some cracking is normal in redone stucco work

February 23, 2010

Q: Two years ago, we moved to a 5-year-old townhouse. Last year, the builder initiated a project of inspecting all the stucco exteriors for moisture penetration into the exterior sheathing and studs underneath. Many inspected units, including ours, were found to have damage attributed to improper application of the tar-paper wrap layer under the wire and stucco layers.

The builder corrected the situation by removing all the stucco, wire, and paper; repairing any sheathing and stud damage; and then re-stuccoing.

Several owners began noticing hairline cracks in the new stucco, generally starting near a window or door and arraying vertically and horizontally from the door opening. Is some cracking normal? Is there a standard for normal cracking versus excessive?

A: Tom Kraeutler, host of the Money Pit radio show, says: "It sounds as if your builder did a commendable job identifying and fixing this problem. Tearing out the old stucco and rebuilding the walls was a huge undertaking.

"As for the cracks emanating from windows and doors, this is not unusual when you realize that walls are always moving. Expansion and contraction from moisture and temperature swings, as well as settlement of your fairly new building, will lead to the type of cracks you describe.

"Areas around window and door openings tend to move more than larger sections without openings, and is therefore the reason cracks form here first. As long as the cracks remain hairline, I would not be concerned. Where feasible, you might want to caulk them to keep water out — silicone caulk is best."

(Money Pit is heard Saturdays from noon to 2 p.m. on WDEL (1150 AM) in Wilmington.)

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Let there be light.

CSA International, a testing and certification organization, offers advice on what to look for when purchasing compact fluorescent bulbs.

Choose the bulb that best suits the fixture. Spiral-type bulbs may be used in almost every fixture. CFLs with globes are available in various sizes and shapes. They look similar to traditional incandescent bulbs and may look better in fixtures with exposed bulbs.

Determine how much light is needed. Check your fixture to ensure the light is the proper size and wattage. Light output is described as "brightness" and is measured in lumens.

For example, an incandescent 40-watt bulb puts out 450 lumens, but it takes only a 9- to 13-watt CFL to do the same thing, CSA says.

Dispose of CFLs properly. Never place a CFL directly into the trash. CFLs contain a trace amount of mercury. Some retailers provide CFL recycling drop-off. You also may contact your local waste-management agency for disposal or recycling options.

If disposal or recycling options are not available, place the CFL in a plastic bag and seal it before putting it in the trash. Do not place a CFL in the trash if the waste-management agency incinerates. Additional information is available at www.lamprecycle.org and www.epa.gov.

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How do energy tax credits work?

If you can afford to remodel in today's tight-credit climate, Todd Jurs, president of Advance Design Studio in Chicago, says that increasing energy efficiency as part of the renovation can have a payback.

Roofs made with qualified products can help decrease the amount of heat transferred into homes, thereby reducing cooling costs. Metal roofs with appropriate pigmented coatings and asphalt roofs with appropriate cooling granules also need to meet the Energy Star requirements. Roofs that are eligible are "reflective roofs." The credit is 30 percent of the cost up to $1,500, installation excluded.

Most of the credits expire Dec. 31.

 


McClatchy-Tribune Information Services