Q: We bought a raised ranch with a full lower level from an owner of 35 years who disclosed that several times, after rains of five inches, the laundry room area took on water and needed to be "broomed out" (the back door opens to the driveway from the laundry room).

We find that several times a year — when heavy rains or large winter thaws come — the laundry room does take on one to two inches of water, which appears to come through the concrete basement floor where it meets the cinder block walls.

Only this area of the lower level is affected. The front, slightly more above-grade portion, remains dry.

The really frustrating part is removing the water. As fast as we broom it out, the area refills. Over time, often taking several days, the water recedes.

We had one contractor look at it, and he told us that given that the water is "percolating from a high water table," a sump pump was not recommended, and he had nothing else to recommend.

Our neighbors on either side do not have sump pumps, but also don’t have full lower levels. They both report that their crawl spaces get up to an inch of water in heavy storms. So, maybe we have the full basement and hence the full flood?

A: Gee, I have a high water table and I have perimeter drains that take the water to French drains and into the sump and out.

No basement is completely dry, but anyone who says that a problem such as yours cannot be mitigated just isn’t interested in the work.

Call another contractor.

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Since we are closing in on the start of the winter, and my weather-expert colleague Anthony Wood began warning us of an early snowfall in October, I thought I should devote the rest of "Your Place" to sharing my annual advice on snow shovels and shoveling.

Shovel width matters, since the objective is to cut a path people can navigate safely. Public sidewalks are typically 58 inches wide (private walks, about 48 inches wide), so the ideal shovel is 18 to 20 inches wide — and, of course, you’ll need to make more than one pass.

The edge of the shovel should be sharp enough to loosen and remove packed-down snow that has not yet turned into ice. Some shovels are covered with Teflon, so the snow slides off when you deposit it in a pile or reach the edge of the sidewalk. If that coating has worn off, spray the shovel surface with vegetable oil until you can replace the shovel.

Shovel snow while it’s fresh; it’s easier to handle than snow that has partially melted or become packed down. This means you should get to the job sooner rather than later, especially if the forecast is for below-freezing temperatures for several days after the storm.

Push the snow forward, in small amounts at a time, instead of scooping and lifting it. Move the snow to the edge of the sidewalk and remove a few inches of it from any grass abutting the walk. This creates a small barrier between the snow and the sidewalk, and less melting water can travel back and freeze.

If you don’t have one, buy an ice chopper so you can chip away at the stubborn stuff. Use the chopper to crack and loosen the ice, and then use the shovel to move it.

If you can’t budge the ice, sand can provide traction for foot traffic and car tires. Or you can use something to accelerate the melting process, preferably calcium chloride, which does less damage to grass, shrubbery and sidewalk surfaces than sodium chloride (rock salt) does.

Spread ice melt on cleared areas that don’t dry quickly, to prevent ice from forming on wet surfaces when temperatures drop after dark.

Don’t forget to shovel around the mailbox and dig access to your trash cans. And try to coordinate your efforts with those of the municipal plows. If they plow after you shovel, you’ll have to do the opening of your driveway all over again.

Don’t wait until the night before a storm is forecast to buy snow-removal equipment — selection will be small and supplies lean. If your shovel is broken, buy a replacement now.