If you haven't heard
of agave nectar or stevia, chances are you will before the
year is over. The two sweeteners are showing up in cocktails,
bottled drinks and a host of other products.
The market for both is exploding.
According to a report by the market research
firm Mintel, sales of stevia were close to $100 million for
the year ending July 2009. The company estimates that by the
end of 2011, the U.S. ingredient market for stevia could reach
$1 billion.
Stevia is extracted from the leaves of a
South American herb. Like its counterparts in the blue and
pink packets, stevia is calorie-free. (Stevia comes in green
or green and white packets). But unlike the others, stevia is
a plant-based sweetener, not an artificial one.
In December 2008, the U.S. Food and Drug
Administration approved the use of rebaudioside A or reb-A, a
derivative of the stevia plant, for use in foods and beverages
in the United States, provided it is at least 95 percent pure.
Reb-A is 300 times sweeter than sugar.
Stevia sweeteners were launched under the
Truvia and PureVia brands and are widely available in
supermarkets.
Soft-drink companies were among the first to
hop on board, using reb-A, sometimes in combination with
sugar, to create drinks that can make the
"all-natural" boast, while containing fewer
calories. Coca-Cola launched three of its Odwalla juices
sweetened with Truvia. PepsiCo partnered with Whole Earth
Sweetener Co. to launch the PureVia brand, which Pepsi is
using to sweeten its SoBe Lifewater products.
Kelly Reed, a clinical dietitian and
coordinator of the diabetes center at Akron General Medical
Center, said stevia is appealing because it is derived from a
plant, as opposed to being a laboratory creation.
She said many of the diabetics she counsels
have discovered Truvia and PureVia since the sweeteners
received FDA approval, and most are pleased. Some detractors
claim it has a licorice-like aftertaste, but Reed said she
hasn't heard any complaints.
In fact, Reed said Truvia is probably as
popular as Equal or Splenda among her patients as a sweetener
for beverages such as coffee and tea.
Because of its extreme sweetness, Reed
cautions users to go easy at first. Both makers claim one
packet equals the sweetness of two teaspoons of sugar.
While both Truvia and PureVia offer recipes
for desserts using their products, Reed said she expects it
will take a while before Splenda is unseated as the baking
favorite for non-caloric sweeteners.
Agave nectar is the other natural sweetener
that is making a splash in the culinary world. Agave is syrup
from the same Mexican plant that gives us tequila. While not
calorie-free, it is an all-natural sweetener like honey and
boasts a low glycemic index, which makes it a more healthful
alternative.
Having a low glycemic index means that agave
takes a longer time to convert to glucose in the body, which
is good for maintaining steady glucose levels.
However, Reed cautioned that agave is still
a sugar, so diabetics need to watch it as carefully as they
would sugar, honey or any other carbohydrate.
"It's not great for diabetics,"
she said, noting that it has roughly the same number of
calories and carbohydrates per serving as honey.
Agave nectar comes in three varieties:
light, which is a honey-colored syrup; amber, which looks like
maple syrup and has a slightly more caramel flavor; and raw,
which is similar to amber. All are thinner than honey, but
thicker than a simple syrup made from sugar.
Their consistency and natural sweetness are
turning heads in the culinary world, particularly in the field
of mixology. Cocktail recipes now often call for agave nectar
instead of simple syrup.
Agave nectar also is showing up as a
substitute for the much-maligned high-fructose corn syrup in
products like ketchup and barbecue sauce.
Ania Catalano, a Connecticut-based whole
foods chef and author of the 2008 cookbook Baking With Agave
Nectar: Over 100 Recipes Using Nature's Ultimate Sweetener
($15.99 Ten Speed Press), said that unlike honey, agave adds
sweetness without adding its own flavor.
"Honey is healthy, but everything you
make with it tends to taste like honey. . . . The great thing
about agave is it is very neutral. It's almost flavorless, and
it has a nice clean finish," she said. "It has the
advantage of enhancing the flavors of fruits, which is why
mixologists have found agave nectar."
Cocktail mixers laced with corn syrup are
being shunned in favor of real fruits paired with this natural
sweetener.
"It has been a great ingredient because
it makes flavors pop. ... It's a natural for a bartender to
experiment with it. It has a smooth, clean flavor. The days of
mixers made with high fructose corn syrup are just gone,"
Catalano said.
Agave is available in health-food stores and
is working its way into supermarkets. Like honey, it works
well for baking and in desserts with a few modifications.
Catalano offered the following tips for baking with agave
nectar:
—Because of its sweetness, recipes
typically require less agave than sugar. As a general rule,
replace every cup of sugar with three-quarters of a cup of
agave.
—Lower oven temperatures by 25 degrees
because agave tends to brown more quickly than sugar.
—Because it is a liquid, the other liquids
in a recipe may have to be reduced slightly. This could
require a bit of experimentation when attempting to convert a
recipe.
—Agave nectar works best for baking when
you want a moist product — muffins, cakes, cupcakes. It will
actually help baked goods stay fresh longer because it retains
moisture.
—Avoid agave if you are looking for a
crispy outcome. If you do want to use agave, Catalano suggests
experimenting with whole grain flours or combinations of
flours to achieve the desired crispy result.
"It is a healthier sweet whose time has
come. ... It has a low glycemic index, and the results still
taste like gourmet with a wonderful, intense level of
sweetness," Catalano said.
Here are two of Catalano's favorite cookie
recipes that call for agave nectar:
FLUFFY LEMON BARS
For the crust:
1/4 cup oat flour
1/4 cup barley flour
1 cup raw almonds, ground to a fine meal in
a food processor
1/4 cup light agave nectar
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tbsp. canola oil
For the topping:
1 tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature
2/3 cup light agave nectar
2 large egg yolks
Juice and freshly grated zest of 2 lemons
1/2 cup barley flour
1 cup evaporated skim milk
3 large egg whites
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil
an 8-by-8-inch baking pan with canola oil spray. To make the
crust, mix all the crust ingredients together in bowl. Press
the crust mixture into the prepared baking pan and bake for 15
minutes, or until slightly browned. Set aside.
To make the topping, in a large bowl whisk
together the butter, agave nectar and egg yolks. Add the lemon
juice, lemon zest, flour and evaporated milk. Whisk until well
blended. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites with an
electric mixer set on medium speed for 1 to 2 minutes, until
stiff (but not dry) peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites
into the lemon mixture until combined. Pour the mixture over
the prepared crust and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the
top begins to turn golden and the filling is set. Remove from
the oven and cool on a rack completely before cutting into
bars.
Store covered in the refrigerator.
Makes 16 2-inch bars.
— "Baking With Agave Nectar: Over 100
Recipes Using Nature's Ultimate Sweetener" by Ania
Catalano
OAT 'N' MAPLE CREAM SANDWICH COOKIES
For the cookies:
1/2 cup nonhydrogenated butter substitute
(see note)
1 cup light agave nectar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 cup firm silken tofu, pureed smooth in a
food processor
1 cup sprouted spelt flour (see note)
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. sea salt
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. ground cloves
1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
3 cups regular rolled oats (not quick
cooking)
1 cup walnuts, chopped (optional)
1 cup raisins (optional)
For the filling:
1/2 cup nonhydrogenated butter substitute
(see note)
1/3 cup plus 1 tbsp. light agave nectar
1/3 cup unsweetened soy milk powder (see
note)
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. maple extract
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two
baking sheets with parchment paper.
To make the cookies, in a large bowl using
an electric mixer set at medium-high speed beat together the
butter substitute, agave nectar and vanilla extract until
fluffy, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the pureed tofu and mix
until blended well. Add the flour, baking soda, salt,
cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and oats and stir well. Fold in the
walnuts and raisins if using. Drop the batter by heaping
tablespoonfuls onto the prepared baking sheets. Using the back
of a spoon, flatten slightly and shape into circles. Bake for
12 to 15 minutes, or until lightly golden. Let cool completely
on cooling racks.
To make the filling, in a large bowl using
an electric mixer set at medium-high speed beat the butter
substitute until softened and fluffy, about 1 to 2 minutes.
Add the agave nectar and continue to beat well. Add the soy
milk powder, vanilla extract and maple extract and beat on
high, scraping down the bowl to incorporate all the
ingredients. Continue to beat until the filling is light and
fluffy.
To fill the cookies, spoon 1 or 2
tablespoonfuls of filling on the bottom (flat side) of one
cookie. Top with a second cookie, bottom side on the filling.
Wrap individually in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 5
days or freeze in plastic freezer bags for up to 3 months,
providing you have superhuman willpower.
Makes 1 dozen cookies.
Note: These cookies are vegan. The specialty
ingredients in this recipe are available at health or natural
food stores.
—"Baking With Agave Nectar: Over 100
Recipes Using Nature's Ultimate Sweetener" by Ania
Catalano