To get back on track, it's time to visit the farmers markets.

Cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage almost are gone, while red leaf butter lettuce and Russian and Tuscan kale are firmly in season, says farmer Bruno Luconi, who sells fresh produce from the Kaiser Permanente Fresno, Calif., farmers market.

"The fresher the vegetable, the more energy it has for your body," says Luconi, a member of the Mokichi Okada Association, an international group that promotes healthy living. "That's the best medicine that you can have."

This medicine looks delicious.

Red chard beckons. So do the long stalks of Chinese broccoli topped with yellow flowers. The season is perfect for large, leafy heads of red-speckled butter lettuce, baby romaine, and green and red crisp lettuces. And so do snow pea shoots, green leaves of lacinato kale and sorrel, as well as tender green garlic.

Green garlic is a reminder of spring's treasures, such as strawberries and sugar snap peas. But it's not yet time for those treats.

Instead, enjoy the promise of this season. To make the most of the ubiquitous beets, dust off a Thanksgiving salad recipe from private chef Wendy Carroll of Seasoned to Taste in Fresno. Stir-fry some Hmong sausage with Chinese broccoli. And pair caramelized shallots with that lacinato kale.

The point is to cook simply, letting the flavors of fresh fruits and vegetables dominate a dish.

For inspiration, turn to author Terry Walters' "Clean Food: A Seasonal Guide to Eating Close to the Source," (Sterling Epicure, $30).

Her combinations (of fennel, citrus and coriander, or Swiss chard with roasted golden beets and sweet peas) will nudge you in the direction of tasty, healthful food.

Eat like this for a few weeks, and when spring arrives, you'll crave those strawberries — without the chocolate.

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KALE WITH CARAMELIZED SHALLOTS

Makes 6 servings

2 bunches kale

6 large shallots, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/8 teaspoon coarse sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

In a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat, saute shallots in 1 tablespoon olive oil for 6-8 minutes or until very soft and caramelized.

Add lemon juice and saute another 2-3 minutes to brown. Remove from heat and set aside.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cut and remove dried stem ends from kale and submerge whole leaves in boiling water for 2-3 minutes or until tender and bright green. Remove from heat, drain water and cut leaves into bite-size pieces. Add kale to pan with shallots and saute 1 minute. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil, season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

—"Clean Food: A Seasonal Guide to Eating Close to the Source," by Terry Walters (Sterling Epicure, $30)

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SAUSAGE AND CHINESE BROCCOLI STIR FRY

Makes about 4 servings

For the stir fry:

1 large bunch Chinese broccoli (see notes)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 bunch green garlic, chopped (see notes)

2-3 Hmong sausages, cooked and sliced into 1/2-inch slices (see notes)

Crushed red pepper, to taste

For the sauce:

3 tablespoons soy sauce

3 teaspoons honey

3 tablespoons hot water

To make the stir fry: Remove and discard any wilted leaves from the Chinese broccoli. Trim off the dried ends of the stalks. Cut the Chinese broccoli—stems, leaves and florets—into 1-inch pieces; keep the stem pieces separate from the buds and leaves.

In a wok or large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add Chinese broccoli stems, then saute and stir just until tender.

Add green garlic, buds and leaves of Chinese broccoli, and sausage. Stir and saute just until vegetables have cooked down. (If your pan isn't large enough to hold the entire mixture, cook it in batches.)

Turn the heat to medium-low.

To make the sauce: In a small bowl, stir together the sauce ingredients. Add to the pan. Stir until the mixture is lightly coated with the sauce. Taste, then stir in crushed red pepper.

Serve immediately, with rice.

Notes: Chinese broccoli resembles broccoli rabe; it has stems topped with long leaves that surround small bunches of florets. Look for Chinese broccoli at the farm stands of Asian farmers.

Green garlic is young garlic. This early in the season, it looks like a green onion, with long, thin greens atop a slender white bulb.

Hmong sausages are available at Asian markets. Brown and fully cook the sausages before using in this recipe.

—Joan Obra, The Fresno Bee

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ROASTED BEET SALAD

Makes 8 servings

12 beets in assorted colors, such as 4 red beets, 4 golden beets and 4 Chioggia beets (see notes)

2 tablespoons finely minced shallots

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

Kosher salt, to taste

Freshly ground pepper, to taste

1/4 cup walnut oil

Assortment of fresh sprouts (see notes)

Assorted lettuces and greens (see notes)

1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped

1/2 cup goat cheese, crumbled (optional garnish)

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Separately wrap each color of beet tightly in double layers of foil and roast in middle of oven until tender, 1 to 11/2 hours. Unwrap beets. (Beets also can be cooked a day ahead and refrigerated.)

While beets are cooling, whisk together shallots, lemon juice, sugar, salt and pepper in a small bowl, then add oil in a stream and whisk until combined.

When beets are cool enough to handle, slip off and discard skins. (Keep the different colors separate from each other, because the colors will bleed.)

Cut beets into decorative shapes (see notes) and put the different colors in separate bowls. Drizzle one tablespoon of dressing over each bowl of beets and toss lightly.

Using a light hand, toss sprouts, lettuces and greens with dressing. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Distribute and arrange the beets attractively among eight salad plates. Place dressed sprouts, lettuces and greens on plate. Sprinkle with toasted walnuts and optional goat cheese. Serve immediately.

Notes: Use whatever beets are available at the local farmers markets. If you can find them, Chioggia beets are particularly beautiful; their flesh has red and white alternating rings.

Use a mix of lettuces and greens with mild, peppery and slightly bitter flavors. Ones in season include baby romaine, butter lettuces, arugula, and dandelion greens.

This salad is all about presentation. Choose different shapes, sizes and thicknesses — such as triangles, circles or ovals. You might even use cookie cutters to shape the beet slices.

For added color, reserve liquid and any scraps from roasted beets. Puree these in a blender with a few drops of walnut oil. Put this "beet paint" into a squeeze bottle and use this to embellish the individual salad plates.

—Wendy Carroll, Seasoned to Taste