The messages are all
over the supermarket aisles:
"Made with whole
grain goodness," screams a bag of Tostitos tortilla
chips.
"With whole
grain guaranteed," says a box of Chocolate Cheerios.
"One serving of
whole grain," declares a package of frosted strawberry
Pop-Tarts.
Whole grains have
been the darlings of the food industry ever since the
government's 2005 food pyramid recommended we eat more of them
— at least 3 ounces per day. These days, you'll find them in
a wide array of products, some expected, some not: breakfast
cereals, crackers, frozen dinners and snack chips. Odwalla has
a new smoothie drink that contains a full serving of whole
grains. The source: whole-grain brown rice.
But — let's get
real. Just because toaster pastries, say, have whole grains
doesn't automatically make them a nourishing choice. One
whole-grain chocolate fudge Pop-Tarts pastry has 190 calories
per serving, 2 grams of saturated fat and 14 grams of sugar.
"Adding whole
grains to Pop-Tarts is not going to take the sugar out,"
says Bonnie Jortberg, a senior instructor in the department of
family medicine at the University of Colorado School of
Medicine in Denver. "Even if Pop-Tarts contain whole
grains, I would put them on a list of foods to eat less often
... the actual real nutrient value is pretty low."
And the Wholly Grains
smoothie from Odwalla has 54 grams of sugar in a 16-ounce
bottle, almost 13 teaspoons of sugar.
"Buyer
beware," Jortberg says. "Not everything is as
advertised."
Here's a primer.
A whole grain
contains all the parts of a seed — including the starchy
endosperm, which has few nutrients; the bran, or outer layer
of the kernel, which is the main source of fiber, and the
germ, where most of the nutrients are found, including B
vitamins and iron. Types of whole grains include whole-wheat
berries, bulgur, brown rice, whole cornmeal, popcorn, whole
oats and millet.
Refined flours, in
contrast, remove the bran and the germ, leaving just the
endosperm, though enriched refined flour is fortified with
missing nutrients: thiamine, riboflavin, folic acid, niacin
and iron.
Whole grains are good
(although not the only) sources of B vitamins (which include
riboflavin, folate and niacin), vitamin E, iron, selenium and
magnesium. One cup of whole wheat flour has 26 percent of the
recommended daily value of iron, 36 percent of thiamine, 38
percent of niacin, 20 percent of vitamin B6, 13 percent of
folate and 121 percent of selenium.
Putting more whole
grains in food usually translates into more fiber, but not
always. If a product has just a bit of whole grains, chances
are the fiber content will be low. For example, a serving (55
pieces) of cheddar Goldfish crackers made with whole grain has
only 2 grams of dietary fiber.
The trend toward
adding more whole grains to food has been growing steadily
since the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Department of
Health and Human Services revised the dietary guidelines in
2005, recommending that at least half of all grains eaten be
whole grains and that 3 or more ounces of whole grains be
consumed per day. As a 1-ounce equivalent of whole grains has
about 16 grams of whole grains, the recommendation is to eat
48 grams of whole grains a day.
Those guidelines were
based on information in large studies published in
peer-reviewed journals such as the New England Journal of
Medicine, Obesity and the Archives of Internal Medicine that
were assessed by the dietary guidelines committee, says Robert
Post, deputy director of the Center for Nutrition Policy and
Promotion, a USDA agency.
"The (committee)
found that consuming at least 3 ounces of whole grains reduced
the risk of diabetes (and) coronary heart disease, and also
helped with weight maintenance," Post says.
Post added that whole
grains "will be as important or even more important than
before" in the guidelines being released later this year
and that there may be more emphasis placed on whole grains as
a good source of dietary fiber.
The studies continue:
One published online May 10 in the journal Circulation found
that women with diabetes who ate more whole grains and bran
lived longer and had less risk of dying of cardiovascular
disease than those who ate lesser amounts.
Not known for missing
a marketing opportunity, many companies have jumped on the
whole-grains bandwagon — adding new products featuring whole
grains or reformulating old ones to include them. This may be
good news for consumers who want more healthful choices, but
some people are undoubtedly confused about what and how much
to eat.
Are whole-grain
Pop-Tarts as good as a bowl of unadulterated steel-cut oats?
(OK, you can go to the back of the class if you don't know the
answer to that one.) And how does one calculate 48 grams,
anyway?
"I don't think
people understand it hardly at all," says registered
dietitian Jo Ann Carson, a professor of clinical nutrition at
the University of Texas Southwestern's Center for Human
Nutrition in Dallas. "I think if you surveyed 20
registered dietitians, half wouldn't be able to tell you
either."
The Whole Grains
Council, a trade organization formed in 2002 to promote whole
grains, devised the Whole Grain Stamp, a postage-stamp-sized
symbol on food packages that lets consumers know how many
grams of whole grain are in a serving of the product. The
minimum amount a product can contain to earn a stamp is 8
grams, or a half serving of whole grains.
Carson advises people
to keep things simple and follow a very general approach
toward eating whole grains, the way she does: Choose
good-quality whole-grain sources (ones low in sugar, sodium
and saturated and trans fats), but put away the pocket
calculators.
"I'm not
concerned about adding up grams of whole grains," she
says. "In a day, if I have five to six servings of
grains, half should be coming from whole grain — the oatmeal
I ate was a whole grain, but the white pasta wasn't."
———
HOW TO GET MORE WHOLE
GRAINS
Before switching
bread, start with other substitutions.
The current federal
dietary guidelines recommend eating at least 3 ounces of whole
grains a day and suggest that half of all grains consumed be
whole grains.
Generally, one slice
of bread; a half-cup of cooked rice, cooked pasta or cooked
cereal; or one cup of ready-to-eat cereal constitutes 1 ounce
of grains, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
The food pyramid
website (MyPyramid.gov) lists several prepared foods that
contain 1 ounce of whole grains: one 6-inch whole-grain
tortilla, one mini whole-wheat bagel, 3 cups of popped popcorn
or one 4{-inch-diameter whole-wheat or buckwheat pancake.
Some less familiar
whole grains, such as quinoa and whole-wheat couscous, are
becoming easier to find in grocery stores.
Most Americans like
their bread light and fluffy, and certain whole-grain breads
can be dark and dense and not that palatable. Bonnie Jortberg,
a senior instructor in the department of family medicine at
the University of Colorado School of Medicine in Denver,
recommends trying different brands to find one that's tasty
and nutritious: "Some cereals are high in fiber but taste
like cardboard," she says. "You have to do a little
experimenting."
It might be easier to
make other substitutions first before tackling bread:
whole-grain pasta for pasta made with white flour, or brown
rice for white.
Jortberg recommends
allowing some time to adjust: "I think a lot of times
it's about getting used to a different consistency. But you
really can retrain your taste buds."