FRESNO, Calif. —
You can still order a Bloomin' Onion at Outback Steakhouse, a
slice of 30th anniversary chocolate cake cheesecake at The
Cheesecake Factory, and a Pizookie at BJ's Restaurant
Brewhouse.
But you'll have a harder time enjoying them
in blissful ignorance. Since July 1, chains with at least 20
restaurants in California have been required to provide diners
with the gory nutritional details — including calories.
The law — similar to others in New York,
Washington state and elsewhere — already is beginning to
change how restaurants sell food, even beyond California. And
customers, startled to see how many calories they have
ordered, are changing their habits as well.
"Most people know eating out is
bad," said Jennifer Massingham of Fresno, Calif.
"But they assume it's just a couple extra calories, not
hundreds or thousands."
During a recent visit to BJ's in Fresno,
Massingham and her husband had planned to order an appetizer,
entrees and a Pizookie (a large deep-dish cookie topped with
two scoops of vanilla ice cream).
But the Pizookie alone can contain as much
as 1,166 calories, the couple learned by reading the back
section of their menus. So they changed their plans, ordering
only entrees instead.
Sally Noxon had a similar experience at an
Outback last week.
"It was so depressing," said Noxon,
who was celebrating her friend's birthday. "I couldn't
believe the calories in the food."
During past visits, her typical meal started
by splitting a Bloomin' Onion, the battered, fried onion
served with dipping sauce. Then she'd have a steak and salad
and share a dessert.
After reading the nutritional information in
a brochure at the table, she chose a soup and a salad — and
didn't even finish the soup.
The information "does change what you
end up wanting to eat," said Massingham, who was
surprised by the Bloomin' Onion's 1,560 calories.
But her friend, Jordan Zack, had a different
take. "You don't want to know the calories on any day,
especially not on your birthday," he said. "I just
want to enjoy my food."
There's evidence that providing nutritional
details does change the way diners eat. A February survey of
755 New York residents found that 82 percent of customers
switched their orders after seeing the information, says
Technomic, a Chicago food-industry consultancy that's studying
the effects of the New York City law. Of these diners, 71
percent choose dishes with fewer calories.
Seeing the nutritional information also
caused 60 percent of those surveyed to change where they eat.
Of these folks, 38 percent don't eat out as often as before.
And 32 percent say they've stopped visiting certain
restaurants altogether.
For the first phase of the law in
California, restaurants can provide brochures detailing
calories, saturated fat, carbohydrates and sodium. Or they can
print just the calorie counts directly on menus or indoor menu
boards, said Lara Dunbar, senior vice president of government
affairs for the California Restaurant Association.
The Cheesecake Factory, for example, shows
calorie counts next to cheesecakes in the dessert display
case. Hooters prints calorie counts directly on its menus.
McDonald's has a nutritional poster and brochures — and even
prints some information on Happy Meal bags.
The second phase of the law starts January
1, 2011. California restaurants must print calories on menus
or indoor menu boards, Dunbar said.
Health-conscious chains see the laws as an
opportunity to court customers. Take Romano's Macaroni Grill,
which launched an "Italian Mediterranean" menu in
California restaurants on July 1. This lighter menu features
seven new dishes, as well as 13 revamped ones.
The most dramatic change was the scallops
and spinach salad, which dropped from 1,270calories to 390
calories — all without altering the entree's portion size,
says Larry Nedwed, a senior brand manager for Macaroni Grill.
The chain simplified the dressing to a blend
of extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice, Nedwed said. It
also added whole jumbo sea scallops for better flavor. As a
result, the salad's saturated fat fell from 27 grams to 4
grams.
"Our guests prefer the new
recipe," Nedwed said. "They're ordering it five
times more than they did before."
Come Labor Day, Macaroni Grill's restaurants
will feature the new menu nationwide. The chain slowly is
shifting its entire menu to the lighter Italian Mediterranean
theme.
There isn't any research to show whether
Macaroni Grill's results are typical, said Mike Donohue, a
spokesman for the National Restaurant Association.
But adding healthful food to menus has been
trendy for a long time. "And I think that will
continue," he said.
That's one result supporters of the
California law like. Even fast-food restaurants have been
adding healthier fare, said Kumar Chandran of California Food
Policy Advocates, a nonprofit that tries to help low-income
families gain access to nutritious food.
More lower-calorie choices on menus is good,
but diners still need to consider the nutritional information
in context, said Judy Osterloh, the director of food and
clinical nutrition services for Kaiser Permanente Fresno
Medical Center.
She advises following the American Heart
Association's daily recommended amounts of calories, sodium
and saturated fat.
For example, saturated fat should be less
than 7 percent of total daily calories. To make the
comparison, multiply the grams of fat by 9, Osterloh says.
As for sodium, the American Heart
Association recommends eating less than 2,300 milligrams per
day. African Americans, middle-aged and older adults, and
those with high blood pressure need less than 1,500 milligrams
per day.
"You can't tell how much sodium is in a
food just by the way it tastes," Osterloh says.
Outback's baby-back ribs with Aussie fries
have 21,052 milligrams of sodium — about nine days of the
recommended daily amount.
And for those counting calories, the
American Heart Association recommends eating 1,600-3,000 per
day, depending on a person's gender, age, physical activity
and health. A chart called "Know How Many Calories You
Should Eat" is available at www.americanheart.org.
Limiting a restaurant meal to about
one-third of the day's calories is reasonable, Osterloh says.
"One way to keep the calories down is to share your
meal."