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The Mariner
of the Seas docks in Valparaiso, Chile, during a
South American cruise from Florida to California.
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LOS ANGELES
- South America is the hot spot for last-minute cruise
bargains. Its fares have fallen more than any other market
- about 50 percent this year, according to industry
watcher Mike Driscoll, editor of Cruise Week.
But what's
to see on a South American cruise? One person who knows
every inch of the route is Johnny Faevelen, captain of the
Royal Caribbean Mariner of the Seas. Feb. 19, he finished
sailing the huge ship 16,892 miles and 47 days from Port
Canaveral, Fla., to Los Angeles, stopping in nine South
American ports and sailing around Cape Horn, as Magellan
and Charles Darwin did so long ago.
About 850
of the 2,000 passengers aboard did the entire cruise, too.
"I'd
been to Brazil before, but it's my first time beyond
that," said Faevelen, who has been a captain since
1994.
Now that
he's sailed the whole route, he puts at the top of his
South America highlight list a visit to a lighthouse
keeper's home off Cape Horn and the colorful cities of
Valparaiso, Chile, and Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The Norway
native also felt at home in the eerie, cold beauty of the
Chilean fjords, "which geophysically is very similar
to Norway and Alaska," he says.
Some things
are unique about South American cruises:
The weather
can range from equatorially steamy hot to ice cold.
There are
more "at-sea" cruising days because the
distances are much greater than European or Caribbean
itineraries.
Most
cruises start in one city and end in another, which can
make airfare an issue.
Cruises are
done only in South America's summer - North America's
winter.
Some ports
can be far from major attractions, so shore excursions may
involve 7 to 9 hours instead of 2 to 3 hours and cost more
.
In
addition, many crews - and even captains - are practically
as unfamiliar with South American ports as the passengers
are.
"It's
an uncharted area for us; we really don't know that much
about it," Faevelen says. "To me, that stop in
Arica (Chile) the other day, was - where are we? You are
in the middle of a desert by the sea."
Some cruise
port services in South America are not mature because only
in the past five years have more than a handful of cruise
ships put the route on the schedule.
In one way,
it's good because there is no gauntlet of boringly similar
stores - each port is strikingly different. In Lima, you
have a 30-minute drive to the colonial city. In
Valparaiso, you can walk right off the cruise ship and be
in the center of town.
On the
other hand, "it's really difficult to sell tours we
don't know. Nobody has been to Arica," says Robert
Prieto, expeditions manager of Mariner of the Seas and a
Chile native.
Still, the
blend of large, vibrant cities and remote natural wonders
in South America gives a cultural richness to shore visits
that purely recreational destinations don't have. You can
see the grand museums of Lima, dine in the fantastic
restaurants of Buenos Aires and still see glaciers,
deserts and wildlife.
"People
are actually learning a lot about South America on these
tours instead of just having entertainment," says
Prieto.
For people
who have never been to South America, a cruise is a good
way to get introduced.
"You
can see it from the cruise ship point of view,"
Faevelen says. "You find places you want to come back
to, or you see it and say, 'I ain't coming back here.' But
at least you have made the opinion on your own. You have
to see these places for yourself."
And right
now, you can do it at up to 50 percent off.
---
2009
ITINERARIES
Three
interesting 2009 South American itineraries for $100 a day
or less:
-Royal
Caribbean Radiance of the Seas: March 29, 14 nights.
Valparaiso, Chile, to Buenos Aires, Argentina. Stops at
Puerto Montt and Punta Arenas, Chile, sails Chilean fjords
and Cape Horn; Ushuaia and Puerto Madryn, Argentina; Punta
del Este and Montevideo, Uruguay; ending in Buenos Aires.
($1,399-up; www.royalcaribbean.com, 866-562-7625)
-Star
Princess: March 30, 18 nights. Valparaiso, Chile to San
Francisco. Stops at La Serena, Chile; Lima, Peru; Manta,
Ecuador; San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua; Acapulco and Cabo
San Lucas, Mexico. ($1,199-up; www.princess.com,
800-774-6237)
-Celebrity
Infinity: Dec. 5, 15 nights. Ft. Lauderdale to Valparaiso,
Chile. Stops at Cozumel; Puerto Limon, Costa Rica; Manta,
Ecuador; Lima, Peru; and Arica, La Serena and Valparaiso,
Chile. ($1,299-up; www.celebritycruises.com, 800-647-2251)