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The SS United
States, once the fastest ship in the world, sits
dockside in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Norwegian
Cruise Lines is studying the ship's future.
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PHILADELPHIA -
I saw a ghost on the way to a baseball game.
Running late to see the Phillies play at Citizens Bank
Park in Philadelphia, I asked the desk clerk at the Sheraton
Society Hill for an alternative to bucking rush-hour traffic
on Interstate 95. Sure, he said, take the road along the
waterfront.
It was a great tip, and I was soon speeding past the new
big boxy stores that are rapidly replacing the shuttered
warehouses along the banks of the Delaware River. I passed
the USS Olympia, the Spanish-American War battleship that
served as Admiral Dewey’s flagship in the Battle of Manila
Bay. It’s a museum. Across the Delaware River, I could see
the battleship USS New Jersey at anchor. It served from
World War II to the run-up to the Persian Gulf War and is a
museum now, too.
Nearing the ballpark, I saw another legendary ship, the
white letters ‘‘UNITED STATES’’ still recognizable
on the raked prow that could cut through the heaviest seas.
Thick chains tied down a maritime thoroughbred grown rusted
and dirty, left to rot at a pier. The sealant meant to ward
off the elements gave the ship a muted, blurry look.
Like a ghost.
A lonely billboard attached to the chain link, erected by
the SS United States Conservancy, showed the ship in its
prime.
The SS United States was once the fastest big ship in the
world. It was the last true ocean liner to win the coveted
Blue Riband awarded to the ship that makes the fastest
crossing of the North Atlantic. When it steamed from
Southampton to New York in three days, 12 hours and 12
minutes in July 1952, the ship knocked nearly nine hours off
the previous record, set by the Queen Mary in 1938.
Officially, the top speed of the SS United States was 35
knots. But the Pentagon had secretly helped design the ship,
which would have been used as a troop transport in case of a
Soviet invasion of Western Europe. The top speed was
actually closer to a remarkable 44 knots, about 50 mph. The
Queen Mary had a top speed of just over 30 knots.
But the SS United States’ heyday was brief - less than
a decade. By 1958, jets were revolutionizing trans-Atlantic
travel. The SS United States saw its clientele slowly slip
away. Removed from service in 1969, it was sold and moved
repeatedly until arriving in Philadelphia in 1996. Some
civic boosters ridiculed the once storied ship as an
eyesore.
Three years ago, it appeared there might be a happy
ending to the saga of the SS United States. The ship has
devoted and active fan clubs. The SS United States
Foundation, lobbied for the ship to be turned into a
floating museum and hotel - something along the lines of an
East Coast version of Long Beach’s Queen Mary.
But even the most starry-eyed romantic never dreamed the
ship might sail once again.
Then Norwegian Cruise Lines struck a deal in April 2003
to return the SS United States to service, most likely as a
cruise ship in Hawaii. Because the United States was
American-built, it was one of the few ships that could meet
a law requiring ships carrying passengers between U.S. ports
either be American built or registered. Norwegian previously
had to make a two-day detour to Fanning Island to get around
the law.
The resurrection of the old steamship wasn’t a pipe
dream. Nearly all modern cruise ships run on diesel fuel.
But Norwegian had prior experience restoring a venerable
steamer.
The company had saved the SS France in 1974, renamed the
steamship SS Norway, then sunk an additional $120 million
into refurbishing the ocean liner to operate as a Caribbean
cruise ship.
Things got so giddy that SS United States fans stopped
worrying about the wrecker’s torch and shifted their
debate to how to keep Norwegian from altering the ocean
liner’s classic low silhouette by adding decks, as it had
with the SS Norway.
A month later it all blew up - literally. The Norway’s
aging boilers exploded off Miami, killing four crew members.
The ship was later transferred to Star Cruise Lines, renamed
the SS Blue Lady. It now sits idle in Malaysia amid
questions about the safety of steamships. Norwegian Cruise
Lines opted to register other ships as American to operate
the Hawaiian service.
Officially, the SS United States project is still afloat.
Susan Robison, a spokeswoman for Norwegian Cruise Lines,
said engineering studies show the ship is essentially
seaworthy but would have to be brought up to more stringent
safety codes and modern levels of luxury.
‘‘The evaluation of the ship, as built, to these
standards is a critical step before we can move forward,’’
Robison said. ‘‘This feasibility study continues.’’
But many doubt the SS United States will ever see the
seas again. The rebirth of steamship travel could be
stillborn.
‘‘I have a great deal of doubt about Norwegian Cruise
Lines’ commitment to putting the Big U back to sea,’’
said Robert Westover, chairman of the SS United States
Foundation. ‘‘How long does a feasibility study take?
More than 2 1/2 years? We’re not talking about rebuilding
a nation here. My personal feelings are that they are
stalling.’’
John Maxtone-Graham, who has authored many books on ocean
liners and regularly lectures on Cunard’s trans-Atlantic
voyages, has fond memories of the SS United States. But he
believes all the good wishes and nostalgia will likely come
to naught.
‘‘She was a beautiful ship, unbelievably fast,’’
Maxtone-Graham said. ‘‘But the costs of operating a
steamship today are just too prohibitive. I think her time
has come and gone.’’