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The view
from Empire Bluff that rises 400 feet above Lake
Michigan near the town of Empire is shown.
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EMPIRE, Mich. — The
Dune Climb is the most famous attraction at Sleeping
Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and a Midwest rite of
summer.
It's a 110-foot-high wall
of glistening white sand that tourists climb for fun. It
takes 10 minutes, a strenuous hike that will take your
breath away. Go for it. Everyone does.
The east-facing dune off
state Route 109 offers up-high views of Lake Michigan
and a nearby inland lake. You can slide and tumble back
down the sand. Or you can hike through the dunes 1.75
miles to Lake Michigan. There's a 20-foot rise to the
blue-blazed post that leads the way through rolling
dunes.
Yes, sand is the big
attraction in the federal park that sits in the
northwest corner of Michigan's Lower Peninsula. It
covers 71,200 acres of land and water and stretches
along 65 miles of Lake Michigan shoreline plus two
offshore islands.
The park features the
largest freshwater sand dunes in the world. The dunes
are spectacular, impressive, imposing and colorful,
especially at sunrise and sunset. It is a very special
place that is fun to explore.
Glaciers left behind
rubble and fine-grained sand. The southern part of the
park features beach dunes created by winds blowing beach
sand onto low-lying dunes.
Perched dunes, built by
wind-blown sand accumulating atop piles of glacial
debris, sit high on the bluffs.
It is those perched dunes
for which Sleeping Bear Dunes is famous. Great
tan-colored mountains of sand, they climb at impossible
angles from Lake Michigan to the sky. They once measured
600 feet high, although today they top out at about 460
feet.
One of the park's special
features is the ghost forest, trees that have been
buried and then uncovered by the ever-shifting sands.
But there's more: high
bluffs that overlook Lake Michigan, an 1871 lighthouse,
three old Coast Guard stations, a historic farm
district, inland lakes and forests.
Short hikes will take
visitors to high bluffs with sweeping views of the Lake
Michigan shoreline.
The park, located 25
miles west of Traverse City, also offers the 7.4-mile
Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive.
The drive is open from
late April to early November and features 12 stops and
trailheads, including my favorite dune stop. It is a
wooden observation deck perched atop the dunes with
take-your-breath-away vistas, 450 feet above Lake
Michigan. It is Stop No. 9.
That bluff retreats by 1
foot per year as waves cut into its base and sand and
rocks slip down into the water.
The dunes, created by the
prevailing winds from the southwest, cover four square
miles.
The park gets its name
from the 400-foot-high Sleeping Bear Dune, a major
landmark for early lake travelers and the subject of an
Indian legend.
A mother bear and her two
cubs were swimming from Wisconsin across Lake Michigan
to escape a forest fire, the story goes. Nearing the
Michigan shore, the cubs lagged behind. The mother
climbed to the top of the bluff to wait. The cubs never
reached her. The mother bear is the namesake dune and
her cubs are the park-owned Manitou islands offshore.
In fact, that story is
Michigan's official children's book: "The Legend of
Sleeping Bear" by Kathy-jo Wargin.
The namesake dune,
however, is suffering from erosion. The perched dune,
about 2,000 years old, was once 234 feet high with dense
plant cover. Now it is less than 100 feet high and its
humped back is dwindling.
Interestingly, no trails
go to the Sleeping Bear Dune itself. One trail will take
you close by on the north and an overlook provides a
glimpse from the south.
One of my favorite stops
is Empire Bluffs just south of Empire. The 0.75-mile
one-way trail climbs through old farm fields and
orchards and through a forest to emerge in a clearing at
the edge of Lake Michigan.
You are 400 feet above
the lake with views to Platte Bay to the south and
Sleeping Bear Dune to the north. A wooden boardwalk
extends 500 feet along the edge of the bluff, which was
created by layered sediments from glacial melting.
At the north end of the
park, it's a short hike, 0.6 miles, to Pyramid Point
where visitors stand 260 feet above the waters of Lake
Michigan on a perched dune. It's a little off the beaten
path and away from the crowds.
To get to that trailhead
off Port Oneida Road, you must also traverse the
3,500-acre Port Oneida Rural Historic District with its
old farms and rural landscape that date back to German
settlers in the 1860s.
Another very cool hike is
to Sleeping Bear Point. It lies west of the historic
village of Glen Haven with its general store, maritime
museum (open seasonally), cannery, blacksmith shop and
an inn. It is among the park's biggest historic
attractions.
Glen Haven, a one-time
fueling station, is designed to keep its 1920s look and
feel.
The park gets 1.5 million
visitors with the greatest numbers in July and August.
It has 13 mainland trails that stretch 53.7 miles. It
offers snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Canoeing,
kayaking and tubing are offered by outfitters on the
Betsie, Crystal and Platte rivers. Camping is permitted
in the park and on the islands.
The park typically gets
100 to 150 inches of snow. In fact, the scenic drive
becomes a cross-country ski loop in the winter.
The park has wild islands
about seven miles offshore with ferry access, in season.
South Manitou Island
features its own sand dunes, old farmsteads, giant white
cedars, a gull colony and 16 miles of trails. It is
roughly 3 by 3 miles in size. There are three
campgrounds.
The old 104-foot-high
lighthouse that dates back to 1839 is again shining over
the Manitou Passage from May to October.
There were more than 80
shipwrecks in the channel over the years. That includes
the Liberian ship Francisco Morazan that wrecked in 1960
on the island's southern tip and is the biggest
attraction.
On 5,313-acre South
Manitou, a trail leads to the Valley of the Gods with
its 500-year-old trees, some of which are 15 feet in
circumference and 90 feet tall.
North Manitou is less
developed and offers 15,426 acres of wilderness. The
island is roughly 7.25 miles by 4.5 miles. Backcountry
permits are required to camp. There are 23 miles of
trails.
Both islands were settled
for lumbering and farming.
Access is by private boat
or via the Manitou Island Transit Co. ferry from Leland.
The ferry to South Manitou runs from May to October; to
North Manitou, from May to November.
The ferry runs to South
Manitou and stays there on a five-hour layover. That
makes a short day trip possible. Visitors to North
Manitou must camp overnight. Call 231-256-9061 or check
out http://www.leelanau.com/manitou for more
information.
The park is developing
plans for new campgrounds, additional trails and
designating as much as 45 percent of the park as
wilderness. Those plans include a 35-mile Bay-to-Bay
Trail that would allow hikers to travel the shoreline
from Platte Bay in the south to Good Harbor in the
north. There are also plans for a north-south gravel
bike trail.
Park admission for seven
days is $10. For information, contact Sleeping Bear
Dunes National Lakeshore, 9922 Front St., Highway M-72,
Empire, MI 49630, 231-326-5134, http://www.nps.gov/slbe.
For tourist information around the park, call
888-334-8499 or check out http://www.sleepingbeardunes.com.
For information on Traverse City, write to 101 W.
Grandview Parkway, Traverse City, MI 49684, or call
800-TRAVERSE. You can also check out http://www.visittraversecity.com.