| Hannah
Lindquist, 20, left, and her sister, Rebecca, 22,
both of Plymouth, Minn., enjoy a dinner of rice,
beans, and textured vegetable protein while
camping at the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness
State Park. |
 |
PORCUPINE
MOUNTAINS WILDERNESS STATE PARK, Mich. — Let’s be
clear. The Porcupine Mountains are not mountains.
Mountains
are vast and jagged, snow-capped and forbidding. They’re
way up there, by the angels and clouds, where the air is
thin and views dizzying. Have you seen the Matterhorn? The
Grand Tetons? Mount Rainier? Now those are mountains.
But
we are the Midwest, and while that means many wonderful
things (you’ve never heard of "Philadelphia
nice" for a reason), it also saddles us with one
inarguable drawback: all that flat land. Sure, we have
natural beauty, but it’s rarely the grand postcard
variety.
Hence
when the northwest corner of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula
boasts something called Porcupine Mountains Wilderness
State Park, it’s worth a double take. Mountains?
Midwest? Well, sort of. Colorado boasts more than 50 peaks
reaching 14,000 feet. Porcupine Mountain state park tops
out at slightly less than 2,000 feet.
But
in the Midwest, we take our mountains where we can get
them. And over three warm summer days, William the
Photographer and I were called. All that pristine land.
All that Lake Superior shoreline. All that ... mountainous
terrain? Maybe not. But whatever their form, these
Michigan mountains are ours.
The
60,000-acre park (a cozy 3 percent of Yellowstone’s
grandeur) offers close to 20 electricity- and water-free
cabins for rent. Though showing wear from decades of use,
they’re solid, wooden and fill up with reservations
months in advance.
William
and I managed to stitch together a small itinerary,
renting one on the shore of Lake Superior for the first
night — a five- or six-mile hike from our car — then
one toward the middle of the park for the second night
that would necessitate a 10-mile trek on Day 2. Then we
would have a short walk back to our car.
Packs
loaded at 25 to 30 pounds — an appalling amount for two
nights, but you know how good beer tastes after work? It
tastes even better after hiking to the shore of Lake
Superior — we were set.
William
and I had all the food we would need in the form of bags
requiring hot water, along with various incarnations of
nuts and fruit. We also carried sundry essentials:
sunblock, hats and clothes for all types of weather,
matches, flashlights and a water filter (streams and Lake
Superior would sustain us). We traded the wallets and
cellphones usually in our pockets for more basic needs:
compasses and bug spray.
Boots
laced tight, we hauled those packs to our backs one
weekday afternoon and began walking into a world of trees
and mosquitoes. William had never done this kind of thing;
I told him to be thankful that the Porkies’ notorious
biting flies were on hiatus until later in the summer.
For
the next several hours, we put one foot in front of the
other through thick green and countless trees.
Despite
the park’s name, the route was mostly flat and the
inclines gradual. The dirt trails were well marked and
maintained, often with worn wooden footbridges leading us
through the thickest patches. We passed several rushing
streams that made us think in the first moment, "How
can we get across this?" In the second moment, we
just figured it out.
Over
time we would come across a father and son in the midst of
a four-day trip who had shooed a bat from their cabin the
previous night, a yellow and black garter snake that
fluttered its little tongue at us, and sisters from
Minnesota who were supposed to be backpacking in Wyoming’s
Grand Teton National Park. Bad weather out West had
redirected them to this Midwestern option.
"This
isn’t as strenuous, but it’s nice to have," said
Rebecca Lindquist, 22. "It’s a good alternative for
a last-minute change of plans."
A
couple of hours before sunset, William and I arrived at a
dark brown cabin that seemed more appropriate for
12-year-olds at summer camp. But it was tidy and freshly
swept, and a deck of playing cards, two rolls of toilet
paper and old newspaper had been left behind, along with
ample firewood from the previous guests. An ax leaned in
the corner against the wall.
"Get
this stuff off of me," William said, shedding his
backpack.
I
traded my hiking boots for sandals, covered my feet with
bug spray and headed 100 yards from our door through thick
greenery to a rocky beach along the shore of chilly Lake
Superior. We dropped our beers in the water and let nature’s
refrigerator go to work. Twenty minutes later, we pressed
those cans to our lips and stared out at the curved
horizon. A family of ducks floated by.
We
dragged our second beers back to the cabin and chopped and
sawed wood. Before long, smoke rose from the old metal
stove to our chimney, allowing us to make freeze-dried
meals that could never taste so decadent close to a
cellphone signal. As we took turns tending to the stove, I
flipped through the cabin journal full of the chronicles
of people who had slept in those beds and cooked on that
stove.
"We
had a great getaway here," one recent entry read.
"We bathed in the lake, made love on the beach and
enjoyed the campfires. Plus enjoyed the cooler
temperatures away from our home state of Arkansas!"
It
was signed "Two happily retired 60-year-olds."
Others
immortalized their stays more simply.
"Go
Packers," one young hand wrote.
"My
birthday!" wrote another. "I’m twelve!"
Another
carried this warning: "The mice will take advantage
of anything left out."
William
and I returned to the beach to watch the sky turn dark and
darker still, threaded with orange. A foraging deer
emerged from the trees, looked briefly at us, then
continued along the rocks. The orange burned along the
horizon — dimmer, dimmer and dimmer — until sometime
past 11 p.m. The air was chilly and clean.
William
and I headed to our bunk beds and soon found out about the
mice for ourselves when a scampering and rustling of
plastic prodded us awake. Blinking in the darkness, my
mind went to the worst — an ornery raccoon, perhaps —
but I faced my fear long enough to grab a flashlight.
As
my beam fell across the cabin, the rustling stopped, and I
crossed the wood floor to find a tiny hole chewed into a
sea of nuts and raisins. I threw the poor, hapless bag of
trail mix into a pot, closed the lid and went back to
sleep.
The
next morning, as we lit another fire for breakfast and
instant coffee, I flipped through the journal again. A
woman who had been a regular with her family over the
years was there with her three daughters — ages 25, 23
and 20 — but wasn’t sure how soon they would return as
a unit because the girls’ "lives are beginning to
be directed by their own schedules rather than by their
parents."
It
was followed by an entry from one of those daughters, who
wrote that she had read three books at the cabin, tanned
and watched the sunset while "rejuvenating myself for
another busy year."
"I
don’t know if I’ll be back next year, so I really
soaked this all in," she wrote. "I’ll be back
someday — hopefully soon!"
William
and I needed to leave for our second day of backpacking,
but I’d already learned my lesson: While the rest of the
world moves, the Porkies remain blissfully still, no
matter the size of those peaks.
———
IF
YOU GO:
Porcupine
Mountains Wilderness State Park is in the northwest corner
of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, several hours from major
cities (about three hours east of Duluth, five hours from
the Twin Cities and Madison, six hours from Milwaukee and
eight hours from Chicago). Cabins and yurts cost $60 per
night. Camping sites cost $14 to $42 per night.
More
information: 906-885-5275, michigan.gov/porkies