MILWAUKEE - I worked in Milwaukee 10 years ago but never had a chance to stay in the Pfister hotel, the grande dame of Milwaukee hotels. Located in the heart of downtown, it's only three blocks from the winged architecture of the Milwaukee Art Museum, which is geographically fitting, given the Pfister's own collection of Victorian paintings. The hotel offers special packages for art admirers and even sells a book based on its collection.

The hotel consists of two parts: a historic wing that opened in 1893 and a newer, 23-floor tower of rooms. On top of the tower sits Blu, a locally famous martini and wine bar. In 2008, some 122 guest rooms were renovated in the historic wing.

CHECKING IN: We arrived early, about 2 p.m., and were welcomed to an early check-in (after calling ahead). As the parents of new twins, we get up early (especially Betsy, my wife) - so by the time we hit the hotel, we were ready for a nap and a Do Not Disturb sign. We were so tired and in such a rush to dive into bed, I neglected to notice that we'd been assigned a room in the tower, rather than the older, renovated wing as I requested in my phone reservation. By the time I did notice, we'd already napped and unpacked, so I shrugged it off as a first-timer's mistake.

ROOMS: Cozy, elegant. Our king-size bed was like a fluffy swimming pool with pillows you could get lost in. There was also a comfy chair in front of a window that was draped, elegantly (and tightly) to keep out the Wisconsin winter. All rooms come with free Wi-Fi Internet access, and our room had the standard writing desk and cable television.

ATTITUDE: Cheery, helpful and professional - but not above chatting. The young woman who delivered the food regaled us (briefly) with tales of biking to work in the snow.

BATHROOM: A standard hotel bathroom, not particularly memorable. In an effort to appear spa-like, however, the room comes with white bathrobes - an amenity I'm usually a sucker for. But the robes were stiff and small and not designed to stay closed, which kind of defeats the purpose of a robe. They were too small even for my wife, but when I tried one on, she couldn't stop laughing. Later, when I tried to eat breakfast in the room, she suggested the following headline: "Man in silly robe attempts to eat breakfast." The constricting, wrist-length sleeves made eating difficult. It felt like trying to butter toast with the tiny arms of a T-Rex.

KID-FRIENDLY: We didn't see anything. But, given Milwaukee's legendary hospitality, I can't imagine well-behaved little ones wouldn't be welcome.

PERKS & PEEVES: The Pfister has gravitas, magnetism - if that can be said of a hotel. It's the kind of hotel that's like a miniature city, complete with its own cafe, spa, gift shop and a lounge where you feel welcome to just sit and read the paper. Our concierge was amazing and helped us find the quickest routes to Saz's, a reputable barbecue spot near the Brewers' Miller Park, and the nearest Half Price Books, a bookstore chain to which we're addicted.

In an otherwise first-rate stay, however, there were some tiny cracks in the experiences. I'm a writer by trade and a stationery nut by inclination, so I was annoyed when the stationery that came with the room had been mistreated and wrinkled. It obviously had not been changed in some time. A quick call to the lobby, however, and they sent up several fresh sheets while we were out at dinner. Also: We returned to soft music and a lovely turndown service - but only one chocolate left on the bed. We arm-wrestled for it.

AREA: Downtown Milwaukee has long been an area in flux, so it's difficult to recommend walking - especially in the cold - to shop and sightsee. That being said, the art museum is amazing and is worth the brisk trip. Take a taxi or drive over to the nearby Milwaukee Public Market (milwaukeepublicmarket.org) in the Historic Third Ward neighborhood. It's a good place to grab a quick delicacy (e.g. oysters on the half shell) or just a loaf of bread while shopping the Third Ward.

Other ward attractions include a slew of art galleries, specialty shops and theaters. Visit historicthirdward.org for a map and more info.

ACCESSIBILITY: Most of the newer rooms are accessible to people in wheelchairs.

BOTTOM LINE: We'd go back, in warm or cold weather. Prices range from $179 to $299, based on availability. Our "Bed & Breakfast Package" was $219 for a deluxe room and a $30 dining credit. Parking was included.