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A
traditional fish boil is taken off the fire at
Pelletier Restaurant in Door County, Wisconsin.
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EPHRAIM,
Wis. — If you don't like the fish boils, maybe you'll
like the goats on the roof.
Door County
boasts coastal villages, cherries and whitefish, similar
to northern Michigan.
Yet Door County
is different. Settled by Swedes and Norwegians, it has a
Scandinavian flair that permeates the Wisconsin peninsula.
Beaches are small and suitable for young families. A
necklace of tourist towns are separated by just a few
miles — Egg Harbor, Fish Creek, Ephraim, Sister Bay,
Ellison Bay, Gills Rock.
It's a
well-heeled spot for a well-heeled vacation.
I found Door
County as wholesome as a glass of milk.
"It is known
as the Riviera of the Midwest," a real estate agent
told me enthusiastically, "and also as the Cape Cod
of the Midwest."
Such puffery
isn't necessary. Door County has its own unique
attractions:
Goats on the
roof: People drive for miles to Al Johnson's Swedish
Restaurant in Sister Bay. It's a one-story building, but
its peaked roof is sod. Every day, goats are led up a ramp
to the peak to nibble the grass and be four-legged tourist
attractions.
What a gimmick!
You can't look away. Plus, most of the families snapping
pictures of the goats end up inside the restaurant,
feasting on paper-thin Swedish pancakes with lingonberry
jam.
The fish boils:
If you are from Maine, you are never going to mistake this
for a lobster boil. But it's all good fun, as area
restaurants fire up steaming pots over wood blazes
outdoors and boil fresh whitefish fillets and red
potatoes. Tourists can find fish boils nearly every night
somewhere in Door County.
Just as the fish
finishes cooking, the chefs douse the flames with oil,
sending up a shooting fireball, guaranteeing a gasping
crowd. As the Greeks say in Detroit, "Opa!"
———
Reasonably priced
small plane sightseeing tours: Grizzly Scenic Air Tours
runs out of the Ephraim-Gibraltar Airport in Ephraim. Up
to three passengers can fly 30 minutes for $162 — that's
just $54 each.
As I arrived,
Grizzly's 4-seat Piper Cherokee 180 landed, and a beaming
Linda and William Basley of Sheboygan got out.
"I had the
time of my life!" Linda Basley said about her first
plane ride ever.
Air tours also
are romantic, says pilot Dave Burke. He has had seven
prospective bridegrooms pop the question in mid air,
"and six of them were successful," Burke says.
The seventh?
"He proposed, and she said, 'Not in a million years.'
It was a long four minutes back to the airport, I can tell
you."
The incredibly
gorgeous public golf course at Peninsula State Park: I am
not a golfer, but this hilly par-71 course with its giant
beech trees on Green Bay has got to be the prettiest
course in Wisconsin. It was packed.
Cows: Moo! City
slickers will love Schopf's Hilltop Dairy and the Dairy
View Country Store in Carlsville.
This is not just
a working dairy farm — it has a stainless steel milking
parlor where visitors can watch cows being milked and
learn how milk makes its way from cow to grocery store.
Great for families with children or curious adults.
Ephraim: As the
state of Wisconsin's only dry town, it allows no alcohol
to be served at local restaurants or hotels. On the other
hand, its classic seaside architecture makes it the
prettiest town in Door County. Every building near the
water is pure white clapboard — all the resorts, all the
churches, everything.
Started as a
Moravian religious community in 1853, beautiful Ephraim,
now a popular location for resorts, maintains a dignified
environment that makes even the local library seem
boisterous. Proof? The most popular booth at the Fyr Bal
Festival in June was the library's book sale .
Nightlife: For
theater and classical music, Door County is your place. It
has professional theater (Peninsula Playhouse, Door
Shakespeare), the classical Peninsula Music Festival, plus
dozens of public concerts.
A grittier place
to stop used to be the Carlsville Roadhouse for blues and
its dance hall. However, frequent Door County vacationers
will be sad to hear the 106-year-old Roadhouse burned to
the ground on June 14, leaving only a sad pile of charred
timbers.
Beautiful Views:
See excellent vistas from Eagle Tower at Peninsula State
Park, from the scenic lookout at Ellison Bluff County Park
or from one of the many tour boats offering sunset tours.
In my book, though, the best view is from an airplane,
where you can appreciate the unusual undulating series of
harbors and see Green Bay in its summer glory.
I was there in
June, but the hardwood trees of Door County mean fall
color will be spectacular here, too.
I bet the goats
on the roof have a great view.
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