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Nearly
every ingredient of this dish was produced at
Epiphany Farms near Downs, Illinois. The owner
hopes to create a restaurant in Bloomington using
only foods produced on the farm and making more
dining destinations in Illinois, than just
Chicago.
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No longer is
Chicago just "the best place to eat between New York
and San Francisco," but now it is endorsed by
outsiders as one of the finest dining cities in the world.
The Michelin Guide's entry into Chicago last November,
plus Alinea's No. 6 ranking in S.Pellegrino's
"World's 50 Best Restaurants" (highest in the
United States) only validated that assertion.
Yet fine dining's
influence is spreading downstate. Two restaurants worth
your time next time you drive to Central Illinois:
—June
June is the type
of progressive, fiercely local, $30-an-entree restaurant
that garners 3 stars or more from critics in Chicago. If
only it were in Chicago.
Instead, it's as
if excavators lifted the modern space from Lincoln Park
and shipped it 170 miles southwest to a strip mall in
Peoria Heights. Frankly, it's not the type of restaurant
you'd expect to — as the saying goes — play in Peoria.
But this isn't a denigration of Central Illinois as much
as a matter of percentages: If you figure that 5 percent
of any population pays top dollar for fine dining, Chicago
would have 168,000 more high-end diners than Peoria.
And yet, June has
thrived for 2 1/2 years, driven by clientele from
Caterpillar plus legal and medical professionals. The
gambler behind June is a largely self-trained chef named
Josh Adams. He spent time working at Vie in Western
Springs, where chef Paul Virant shares the same ideology
of working with local farms and seasonal menu
constructions. I find June and Vie to be kindred spirits.
Adams, however,
owns a lot more toys in his open kitchen, ones that might
affix him with the molecular-gastronomist label. But those
modern techniques are utilized more subtly, and aside from
some examples of daring plating, the kitchen never seems
like it's pushing out science experiments.
The most
conspicuous application is a freeze-dried duck pate with
cocoa nibs, preserved cherries and crushed almonds — it
looks like granola mix, eaten with a spoon like dried
cereal, and tastes like astronaut ice cream with a rich,
foie finish. Less avant-garde is the outstanding seared
gray mullet with spring peas, ramps, maitake mushrooms and
a caramelized coconut milk-Thai chile sauce. But by the
time you read this, spring pea and ramps season will be
over, the dish likely replaced by something else entirely.
So blow-by-blow accounts would hardly be useful here, and
a more helpful assessment would be: trust the chef, this
guy knows what he's doing.
877-682-5863,
junerestaurant.com
—Station 220
Several years
back, Bloomington-Normal native Ken Myszka was a
fresh-eyed graduate of the Culinary Institute of America,
the Harvard of cooking schools. He landed a position in
Las Vegas cooking for chefs Thomas Keller and Guy Savoy,
both regarded as living legends of gastronomy.
But Myszka soon
tired of the grind. Then he took interest in the
sustainable and local foods movement — he was so
inspired by Michael Pollan's "The Omnivore's
Dilemma," he read it three times.
So Myszka moved
home, dreaming to make Central Illinois a dining
destination. He started Epiphany Farms on 77 acres of
family plot (Myszka had no farming experience), hoping to
supply his eventual restaurant with produce he grows and
animals he raises.
Until Myszka's
restaurant opens next year, he and farm partner Stu Hummel
(an alumnus of Joel Robuchon's in Vegas) are cooking at
Station 220, housed in a former fire station in downtown
Bloomington.
Station 220 still
bears its previous tenants' menu holdovers — nachos,
bruschetta, fettuccine alfredo. But Myszka's touches are
creeping onto the menu. The Seoul Burger is a nod to
Myszka's Korean wife, with house-made kimchi, fermented
soybean mayo and a fried farm egg atop. Pork schnitzel is
a crispy pounded pork cutlet (their farm pork) in a brown
butter and mustard demi glace, finished with a fried duck
egg and a parsley-fennel salad counterpoint.
A high point is
the roast chicken with potatoes, proving that in
less-capable hands, some obligatory menu standards are
easy to cook but tough to execute well. Not here. It's
straight from Thomas Keller's Bouchon playbook, brined for
16 hours in honey, lemon, thyme and garlic, then roasted
to peak moistness. The accompanying butter sauce will
render weaker diners to pick up their plate and lick it
clean in open public.
309-828-2323,
station220.net