TRAVERSE CITY, Mich. - "Senior citizens are running through the halls carrying bottles of wine and giggling," my husband told me on our first evening at the beautiful Chateau Chantal winery and B&B on Old Mission Peninsula in northern Michigan.

It's true that once the winery tasting room is closed to the public and the staff leaves, B&B guests are allowed to conduct their own tastings. And the strategy works: When we returned to Chicago, our van included not only seven family members ranging in age from 14 to 81, but six cases of wine.

The picturesque Chateau Chantal sits on 65 acres at the center of the Old Mission Peninsula, which divides Grand Traverse Bay just north of Traverse City. The winery is perched on a hill, and vineyards roll gently downward to the east and west, with the bay visible in the distance in both directions.

The views are serene, the B&B is comfortable and the wines are - in my opinion - the best in Michigan.

The owners of the winery and B&B are Robert and Nadine Begin. In 1983 they purchased what was then a cherry orchard and replanted it with grape vines. They opened the B&B with three rooms in 1993 and added eight more rooms plus meeting facilities in 2003.

CHECKING IN: Only one staff person was available at 3 p.m. to check in guests, show them to their rooms and give a tour of the facilities, which meant we had to wait a bit.

ATTITUDE: Ultra-friendly and relaxed. But you're on your own after the staff leaves for the evening. Most guests seem to think this is a plus.

ROOMS: The 11 rooms - all but two are suites - are decorated in a French country style, featuring painted wood cabinets, colorful wallpapers and ornate silk flower arrangements. Our large group occupied two units, the French School Suite and the Executive Apartment.

The French School Suite has a separate bedroom with a queen-size bed, a living room with a queen-size sofa bed, a wet bar and refrigerator, and a private terrace on ground level. The Executive Apartment has two bedrooms with a queen-size bed in each, two bathrooms, a living room with a fireplace and a queen-size sofa bed, a gourmet kitchen and two balconies.

All rooms include iron, ironing board, hair dryer, radio and television. The beds are comfortable and have a cozy look, piled high with pillows, quilts and comforters.

We paid $195 per night plus tax for the French School Suite and $375 per night for the Executive Apartment.

Many of the rooms, including the French School Suite, feature whirlpool tubs. In the Executive Apartment, we had large, spa-size showers instead. Double sinks and Gilchrist & Soames bath products lent a luxurious ambience.

KID FRIENDLY: The B&B has a relaxed atmosphere, but my guess is parents would not feel comfortable bringing toddlers.

ROOM SERVICE: There's no room service, but a basket of snacks is available in the suite as are menus for nearby restaurants. When you arrive you'll find a selection of wines in your room, including white and sparkling wines waiting in the fridge. You keep track of what you eat and drink in the room, and pay at the end of your stay.

A delicious hot breakfast is included in the room charge and is served buffet-style in the spacious Chantal Great Room starting at 8:30 a.m. and ending "when everyone is finished eating."

One of our breakfasts featured a tasty egg, cheddar and cottage-cheese casserole, a house-specialty, according to the chef. Fresh coffee is available all day long in the Great Room.

PERKS: A computer is available for guests' use, as is a library of popular books and wine reference works in a comfy sitting room. The Traverse City Record Eagle is delivered to your door. During the summer, breakfast is followed by a winery tour just for B&B guests. The large tasting room features a sitting area and opens onto a lovely terrace looking over the vineyards and West Grand Traverse Bay.

BOTTOM LINE: Room rates range from $135 to $425 per night, depending on the size of the room and the day of the week. Expect an additional 6 percent sales tax plus 2 percent room tax. The B&B includes one room, the Merlot Suite, that is handicap accessible.