MINNEAPOLIS - I entered the woods at dawn. The last stars winked out in the brightening blue, which was framed by a latticework of naked branches.

The January cold was such that my cross-country skis didn't so much slide as scratch across the snow-covered trail at Maplelag Resort in northwestern Minnesota. When I stopped moving, pure silence ensued. My breath rose in a cloud of steam, then dissipated as shimmering ice crystals.

Every sound stood out in sharp relief. I heard a rustling of feathers, then saw its source: a puffed-up whiskey jack had landed on a maple branch. A tree popped in the distance, its sap groaning in the vise made by subzero air. A perfect winter morning: bitter cold amended by profound beauty.

For the initiated, the wonders of Minnesota's winters need no introduction. For those who can't fathom putting wonder and winter in the same sentence, I extend my sympathy - and an invitation. Below you'll find five good reasons to give the season another chance.

Some of Minnesota's most unique and world-class travel experiences exist only in winter, and with December's timely cold snap and a blanket of fresh snow, the season is off to a good start. The best dog-mushing in the Lower 48 is here. Some of the prettiest cross-country ski trails in the country beckon, and so do some of the coziest firesides, for those who prefer to see it all from the warm side of a window.

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BLUEFIN BAY: IDEAL AND LUXURIOUS

The distinctive row of gray-and-white condos rises from the rocky shore; most units have wall-sized windows that bring the mesmerizing view of Lake Superior right into the room. Rooms are up-to-date with cable TV, comfy bedding and tasteful furniture. Bluefin's shuttle serves nearby Lutsen ski area and many state park trailheads (for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing).

Who's it for: Bluefin handles adventure-seekers and couch potatoes with equal aplomb.

Advisory: The Web site makes good use of 360-degree viewing to let you see exactly what you're reserving. Swimsuits are encouraged; the outdoor pool and massive hot tub are open year-round. (There is also an indoor pool for the lily-livered.)

Perks: The Bluefin Grille excels with wild game such as elk fillet and lake trout. The nearby Coho Cafe is a deli-style pizzeria and coffee house. Get rubbed down at the Superior Waters Wellness Spa.

Practical matters: Lodging ranges from about $100 a night for the studios and smaller guest rooms to $450 a night for an accommodation that can sleep eight. More information: 1-800-258-3346; www.bluefinbay.com.

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WINTERGREEN: GOURMET FOOD AND WORLD-CLASS ADVENTURE

Wintergreen claims to be the nation's only lodge devoted exclusively to dog mushing. That's probably true. What is undoubtedly true is that it's the only dog-sledding lodge with a nationally recognized (well, in France) French chef.

A vacationing Bernard Herrmann happened to be passing through Ely, Minn., on the day that co-owner Paul Schurke placed an ad in the Ely Echo. "I was just hoping to be lucky enough to find someone to cook," Schurke said. "And a master French chef answers the ad."

Who's it for: Participants during my two days at the lodge ranged from a 78-year-old woman to a 5-year-old boy. (Both rode in the sleds.) Anyone with moderate fitness can learn to drive the dogs.

Advisory: Reserve early; trips fill quickly. Budget packages put guests at nearby resorts. Paul and Susan Schurke sell and rent their well-made (and pricey) Wintergreen wear.

Perks: Top-grade grub. Not unusual to hear wolves howling, but highly unlikely that you'll see one.

Practical matters: Half-day trip (when available), $100. A four-night deluxe package in the lodge, $1,425. A budget three-night trip, $600. More info: 1-877-753-3386; www.dogsledding.com.

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MAPLELAG: OASIS OF NORDIC SPORT

Year after year, Maplelag gets skiable snow, even when no one else in the state does; that's thanks to its slight rise in elevation above the surrounding farmland. But this resort is more than sterling ski trails. Maplelag has cultivated a funky, communal vibe that keeps guests coming back. The hardy food is served family-style, meaning guests get to know one another. Saturday night talent shows, a popular tradition, mean that guests get to know one another even better.

Who's it for: Ideal for winter sports-minded groups and families.

Advisory: The high return rate (more than 80 percent) testifies to the value.

Perks: Ice-skating rink, enormous indoor hot tub, sauna and steam room, lots of fireplaces and quiet nooks in the main lodge for readers and catnappers. Converted cabooses make romantic getaways for couples. Check out owner Jim Richards' collections of lunchboxes, weird signs, stained glass and leather chaps, among other things.

Practical matters: Rates range from $225 per person for a weekend package (two nights, six meals) in an accommodation with no bathroom to $322 per person for digs with private baths. 1-800-654-7711; www.maplelag.com.

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NATIONAL FOREST LODGE: PLACE TO EXPLORE DEEP WOOD

There is very little in the way of civilization between Finland and Ely along Hwy. 1, which transects Superior National Forest in northeastern Minnesota. Just past the halfway mark, however, a small clearing in the pines accommodates a welcoming cluster of cabins. National Forest Lodge, or NFL as it's known to its fans, is open only on winter weekends, when guests gather to ski, snowshoe and sit around. This is a communal place. Meals are served family-style in the main lodge. On Saturday nights, the sauna is fired up, and even at 20-below, hardy guests jump into a hole in the ice of Lake Gegoka.

Who's it for: Popular with families. Thirty-five kilometers of cross-country trails draw skiers, but the lodge, with big windows and a fireplace, is an excellent place to lounge.

Advisory: Only the Log Home (a gorgeous structure that sleeps up to 10) has indoor plumbing. The bathhouse (with gender-divided sides) serves the other cabins.

Perks: Affordable prices, congenial atmosphere. Saturday social hour includes complimentary wine and beer. Outdoor hot tub.

Practical matters: A two-night package with six meals is $165 per person, $205 for the Log Home. All rates are half for ages 4-12, free for ages 3 and under. Call 651-351-0939; www.nationalforestlodge.com.

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GUNFLINT LODGE: EXPANDING ITS OFFERINGS

A stone fireplace, a deer-antler chandelier and rafters filled with North Woods paraphernalia, from a birch bark canoe to a stuffed fox, speak to the lodge's history. So do the black-and-whites of wool-clad folks smiling amid piles of snow. Since 1927, people have been relying on the lodge for their fix of cross-country skiing, ice fishing and snowshoeing. The view - of Canada on the far shore and, for the lucky, a fox skulking across the frozen lake - is another draw.

Who it's for: Because the lodge offers themed packages ranging from "books in the woods" to "Nordic ski," it lures all types.

Advisory: Noise from the neighbors carried through the adjoining door and the heating system was baffling (though I stayed warm) in the "classic cabin" where I stayed. The lodge also offers "romantic cottages" and "Gunflint Lake homes."

Perks: Saunas. Abundant and forthcoming wildlife. Corn for feeding deer. The restaurant Justine's provides the kind of fine dining - Canadian walleye encroute, paillard of venison - not usually found in the deep woods.

Practical matters: Prices range from $149 per night for a classic cabin to $799 for a romantic cottage with full maid service plus meals. More info at 1-800-328-3325; www.gunflint.com.