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Patrons
mingle at The Roof bar atop The Wit Hotel at State
and Lake Streets in Chicago, June 3, 2009.
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CHICAGO — The phone rang.
It was 6 a.m.
"Yes," I said,
groggy.
It was the president.
"Enough
filibustering!" he shouted.
"OK, but ..."
"Up and at 'em!"
he shouted.
"All right,
fine!"
On the other end, I heard a
dog bark, presumably Bo, the Portuguese water dog. I swung
my feet off the bed. "Are you done?" I asked,
but the line was already dead.
Now, here's what's unusual
about that:
No. 1, the president rarely
calls; No. 2, 6 a.m. calls from the president are very
unusual; No. 3, I was talking to a recording; and No. 4,
the president, despite a halting syntax I assumed belonged
to Barack Obama, sounded like a Bill Clinton impersonator.
Which is possible. I was waking up on a Tuesday in the Wit
hotel in the North Loop, that slender new 27-story
building with the chartreuse lightning bolt plunging down
the facade, at State and Lake streets. The Wit hired a
handful of Second City actors to record its wake-up calls.
You choose your poison the night before. Do you want an
Ann Landers impression? Harry Caray? (Too loud.) Or Mayor
Richard Daley? (Too scary.)The Wit takes its name
seriously; you wake with a smile. Still, local celebrity
impersonators aside, even more surprising is how it weaves
itself into the landscape, both aesthetically and
culturally, and how staying there is not like staying at
just any upscale chain hotel (though it is a Doubletree
property).
For instance, consider the
bathrooms — more specifically, consider how the
bathrooms in the guest rooms offer you a remarkable
opportunity to become a part of the Chicago landscape.
I stayed on the seventh
floor, at the precise corner of State and Lake. The window
in my bathroom stretched floor to ceiling, a sheer plate,
and an exhibitionist's dream. The tub was against the
glass, overlooking the CTA station. Draw the blinds. Or
put on a show.
But you will giggle.
It's tough not to. The
toilet roll comes with a sticker of Rodin's "The
Thinker" affixed. On the wall behind the toilet
itself was a framed vintage George Lois-designed Esquire
magazine cover from the 1960s. Then there's that train
station, with its ridged tin roof, seemingly within arm's
reach, close enough that you would assume it might drive
you to sleeping pills but nicely muted. Architect Jackie
Koo employed double-layered glass, which squelches the
constant clatter of the CTA into a comforting, far-off
clicketyclack. Indeed, though I woke at 6 a.m., I went to
sleep at 3 a.m. and spent the last hour on the couch in my
room, watching the train lights undulate into view, then
recede again, disappearing down the long canyon of Lake
Street.
This place is charming. I
stayed up late because it's the kind of hotel that rewards
a late night. I took the elevator to the lobby, which
feels small and close to the street. The trains outside
seem to rumble through every few minutes. I sat and read,
periodically looking up to watch packs of theater patrons
clip-clopping up the street toward Wabash. I had an idea.
When you check in, the person at the desk offers you a
warm chocolate-chip cookie. I went over and asked for
another. "Sure," said the woman at the desk,
handing over a fresh, warm cookie.
Prize in hand, I scaled a
flight of glass-and-metal stairs to the first landing,
which holds a small, cozy library-lounge. Here, you truly
are one with the CTA, the hotel and the train platform at
the exact same height but separated by glass. Some chairs
are low; some are high-backed, deep set. On the shelves
are few real books, only a juxtaposition of famous faces
etched into a jumble of faux spines — Tina Fey smiling
beside Emily Dickinson (not smiling), an alarmed Tolstoy
beside Bill Murray in white-beard mode. I leaned over the
balcony, which gives a bird's-eye view of the lobby, and
admired the chandeliers.
Next stop, the gym, which
you reach by walking down a hallway, at the end of which
is a large black-and-white portrait of an upturned lily
outlined in light purple neon, the hall itself so dark
that the eerie violet door-shaped glow reminds you of
moments in "Poltergeist." But the gym is nice!
Not haunted! There are step machines, each outfitted with
a television. And a yoga studio.
I was not in the mood, so I
headed to the Roof, on the 27th floor and one of three
restaurants in the Wit. Roof, as it is called, is the
closest that the Wit comes to the trendy boutique hotel
experience I was dreading. State and Lake, the all-purpose
restaurant that anchors the ground floor, has dark leather
walls and cork floors and the casual air of an unassuming
hotel restaurant; Cibo Matto (on the second floor) is
another surprise, an Italian restaurant resting beneath a
30-foot-long ceiling fresco. But Roof, which serves a
smart selection of light meals (lamb-burger sliders, flat
breads, fries, thin slices of lemon-seasoned crudo), seems
to pulse with Banana Republic models, shipped in from
another rooftop bar/restaurant, probably in Los Angeles.
That said, the view is incredible: the river in one
direction, the jumble of concrete and red brick that makes
up the Loop in the other direction.
At the center of a long
communal table is a thin, rectangular fire pit; on a
chilly October night, I plan to return.
And to check out the
theater, too — an entirely digital (sound, projection,
etc.) 40-seat movie theater.
Which raises the question:
Is the Wit for the casual tourist? I suppose so, yes. It's
remarkably priced for a boutique hotel, with some rooms as
low as $119 but averaging around $280. And the location is
ideal, near the river, the theaters, Michigan Avenue. But
at the expense of sounding like a snob, the Wit seems more
likely to be appreciated by a visitor who knows the city,
not someone who wants to retreat at day's end and leave it
behind. Which is not to say the Wit isn't cozy. I had a
midpriced corner room with a cloud of a bed and a generous
heap of pillows, that sheer plate of floor-to-ceiling
glass in the bathroom extending to the bedroom. The view
was spectacular, enveloping, and as I lay back in bed to
sleep, taking in a gray mist-shrouded gridlock of Loop
architecture, I realized what I hadn't done. I hadn't once
played with the TV.
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