| The
Meditation Room in the Aspira Spa is a feature in
the Osthoff Resort in Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin. |
 |
ELKHART
LAKE, Wis. — "So what brings you here?" my
massage therapist, Serena, asked while leading me from the
Aspira spa’s hot tub to the soft table where she would
rub me down in a haze of sandalwood oil for the next 50
minutes.
"Just
looking for a warm-up," I said.
"Good
call on a day like this," she said.
The
day, in a word, was winter: high-teen temperatures, bony,
shivering trees and an inch of snow on the way. In other
words, it was the perfect time to pad around in a bathrobe
and slippers while moving from core-warming pursuit to
core-warming pursuit: the hot tub, a massage, the
seven-headed shower, lunch (in my bathrobe), more hot tub
and, finally, a chromatherapy bath where the colors shift
from blue to purple to green to balance my energy amid the
toasty bubbles and jets.
Even
in the grip of winter, you too likely can stand a slice of
rejuvenation and escape. But if that quest be hemmed in by
distance and time, there is no shortage of spas that exist
solely to take you away, no matter that they’re in, say,
central Wisconsin in winter.
I
headed to two to remind you of the possibilities for the
remaining arctic weeks.
—Aspira
spa at The Osthoff Resort (Elkhart Lake, Wis.)
Wisconsin
is loaded with spas, but I opted for the small-town
splendor of Elkhart Lake, population 967. Things were
quiet amid the gently rolling frozen farms.
"This
is the slowest time of the year," said the bartender
at Lake Street Cafe, where I stopped for an India pale ale
from 3 Sheeps Brewing in nearby Sheboygan. "It doesn’t
help that it’s 5 degrees outside."
The
Osthoff wasn’t much busier. A few nights earlier, the
resort had rented fewer than 10 of the 240 rooms tucked in
its sprawling, U-shaped complex that sits beside the lake
sharing the town’s name. The front-desk clerk told me,
"Give us a call if you get scared in your own
building."
Even
after exchanging a few "The Shining" jokes, I
still wasn’t scared. Instead I cranked up the
thermostat, switched on the gas fireplace and put up my
feet.
The
next day began with a swim in the resort’s pool — not
a part of the spa and therefore just another hotel pool at
heart — before crossing the Osthoff’s seemingly
endless maze of halls to reach the spa.
While
the resort opened in 1995 and the rooms are very much of
that era — comfortable in their beige predictability but
not quite cutting-edge luxury — the spa opened in 2005
and feels decidedly more modern: plenty of stone, tile and
dim lighting through its 20,000 square feet, which
includes more than a dozen quiet rooms for pursuits
ranging from massage to meditation.
An
attendant led me to the lightly-scented men’s locker
room (pine, perhaps), pointing to the stack of white
robes, white slippers and amenities — lotion, combs,
razors, mouthwash and the like. The men’s lounge, like
the women’s, offered the classic spa buffet of nuts and
dried fruit, ice water and hot tea. Unlike in the women’s
locker room (where I took an authorized look), the
magazine stack was composed of recent issues of Sports
Illustrated, Fortune and Time.
I
spent half an hour in the circular co-ed whirlpool that
sat between a stone fireplace and a wall of windows that
allowed warm, bright streaming daylight to stream in. On a
midweek in January, I was alone.
Alone
until Serena showed up. Dark hair pulled back and wearing
glasses, she led me to a dim room with a fireplace,
shower, whirlpool tub and massage table (Aspira has
several such "massage suites" for stays that can
extend beyond the rubdown). I had opted for the Sacred
Waters massage, one of the spa’s signature treatments
and ideal for mid-winter.
As I
laid face down, Serena began by placing a deerskin pouch
filled with warm water in both of my hands and one on my
lower back. The water, she said, came from a nearby lake
in a nod to the American Indians who have used the same
body of water in ceremonies for generations. As Serena
went to work, I became too intoxicated by her handiwork to
ask how exactly the resort procures water from a frozen
lake. And on Serena went, filling the next 50 minutes with
a joyous winter vortex of sandalwood, comfort and warmth.
"Any
questions?" Serena asked when she was finished.
"Yes,"
I said. "Why didn’t I get the 80-minute
version?"
She
laughed.
"That’s
what they all say."
—The
Heartland Spa and Fitness Resort (Gilman, Ill.)
Four
warnings greet visitors to The Heartland Spa on the long
flat plains 90 miles south of Chicago: Drive slowly. No
hunting or fishing. Private property. No junk food.
If
you doubt the importance of "No junk food," don’t;
it prompted a woman who arrived just after me to whisper
to her companion, as if she had just drawn a mustache on
the "Mona Lisa," "I ate a cupcake this
morning."
The
Heartland decor can best be described as 1980s farm, which
makes sense because the spa is housed in a former dairy
farm and opened in the ‘80s. It is more modest than
modern, but that is part of its home-spun charm.
The
Heartland Spa offers the opposite warm-up of Aspira and
many other Midwestern spas. Let’s call it a healthy
warmth. Yes, the classic spa-like luxury is at hand:
massages, facials, manicures and the like. It also
includes the less typical, like an ionizing foot bath that
detoxifies through the bottom of the feet. The color of
the water supposedly indicates which part of the body has
been cleansed.
But
you don’t just have things done to you at The Heartland.
Down on the farm, you are entering something that is
uniquely its own: a community, a spirit and a mind-set. It
is unfussy, unpretentious and nonjudgmental, all things
that happen when everyone is wearing the same clothes.
Yes
it’s true: When booking a stay, The Heartland asks a
guest his (or more likely her) size so the standard
Heartland wear can be prepared for arrival: well-worn
T-shirts and sweatshirts that bear a thin "H" on
the chest, as well as a moderately thick robe. Upon
request, Heartland sweat pants also can join the ensemble.
(I brought my own.) When any of the above are dirty,
simply leave them on a mat outside the room and — poof
— new ones appear.
"I
love that I barely had to pack to come here," one
guest said.
I
sneered at my Heartland wear at first but was won over
within 45 minutes — about the time that I realized it
was appropriate to change into sweat pants for dinner.
Most of my fellow guests also surrendered to the Heartland
look, creating an unlikely democracy of relaxation and
ease.
A
warm-up at The Heartland can come in the form of hard work
or relaxation. It’s up to you. The weekend features no
shortage of programs, lectures and spa offerings, but for
me the ideal was a mix.
On
the first night, for instance, I threw on my loaner
sweatshirt and joined a Qi Gong class of slow, deliberate
movements that our instructor, Gary, said stimulated our
chi. When finished, he swore we all could feel that chi
— or our life forces within — flowing between our
hands in the form of warmth. We followed it up with a
class called Meditation of the Breath.
The
next day was a combination of hard work and relaxation:
water aerobics, a massage, a turkey burger (with feta
sauce) and the finest nap I’d had in ages. Later that
night, a guest lecturer (who doubles as a Chicago police
sergeant) would give a talk titled "Zestfully Simple
Ways to the Good Life." In short, she told me, choose
to be happy and you will be happy.
If
this all sounds too healthy and progressive, worry not: on
the welcome tour, they tell you where the dish of
red-and-white mints resides in case of emergency.
———
IF
YOU GO:
In
winter and spring, rooms at The Osthoff Resort (101
Osthoff Ave., Elkhart Lake, Wis., 920-876-3366,
osthoff.com) start at $110 per night plus tax with a
two-night stay. There are many packages that include spa
credits or discounts; ask when booking. The Aspira spa
offers a broad menu of treatments and options, many of
them costing between $80 and $250. Two of the most popular
in winter are the Sacred Waters massage ($155 for 50
minutes; $200 for 80 minutes) and the Moroccan Hot Oil
Massage ($135 for 50 minutes; $190 for 80 minutes).
About
three hours north of downtown Chicago, Elkhart Lake is a
perfect little Wisconsin town, which means there are a few
things to do and see outside the resort. Paramount are two
impressive restaurants a short walk from the Osthoff:
Paddock Club (61 Lake St., 920-876-3288,
paddockclubelkhartlake.com) which has a strong menu of
pasta and classic (salmon, steak, pork) and a more
modestly-priced food menu at the bar (green chili
hamburger, quinoa burger). A few doors down is the more
casual and equally tasty Lake Street Cafe (21 Lake St.,
920-876-2142, lakestreetcafe.com) which offers pizzas,
sandwiches, hearty entrees homemade desserts and a solid
lineup of Wisconsin craft beer.
Depending
on how many nights you stay and the available specials,
rates at The Heartland Spa (1237 East 1600 North Road,
Gilman, Ill., 815-683-2182, heartlandspa.com) start at
about $175 per person per night. Services such a massage
and facials are extra, but the stay is otherwise
all-encompassing. Between the programming (classes,
lectures, meals) and the spa’s off-the-grid location,
all your time will be spent at The Heartland. Despite the
health focus — a day’s menu, including a couple of
snacks, rarely exceeds 1,600 calories — the food is
fresh, filling and tasty. They provide three meals a day
plus two snacks. Fresh fruit, coffee and tea are in
constant supply.