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The
lox plate at Shapiro's deli in Indianapolis
features silky smoked salmon and all the
traditional accoutrements.
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INDIANAPOLIS —
Indianapolis may seem like a culinary flyover land to
some, but if you dig crispy fried chicken, to-die-for
kosher-style delis, no-frills ribs, awesome onion rings,
family-friendly French cafes, miles of pies and righteous
burgers and milkshakes, then you've come to the right
place. Plus, all meals check in at less than $15 per
person in this affordable town.
We recently took a family
of eaters to a bunch of Indy spots recommended by foodie
friends and came back with many delicious memories. Here's
a rundown.
—Hollyhock Hill, 8110 N.
College Ave.; 317-251-2294; hollyhockhill.com: With its
flowery decor, mature clientele and air of quiet
gentility, Hollyhock feels a lot like your grandma's house
— that is, if grandma cooked up mouthwatering fried
chicken, creamy mashed potatoes, rich gravy and, well,
overcooked string beans. Most meals are served family
style, allowing everyone to take their fill of pickled
beets, iceberg lettuce salad and other plentiful sides.
—Mug-N-Bun Drive In, 5211
W. 10th St.; 317-244-5669: In the shadow of the Indy
speedway, this charming car-hop style fast-food joint
serves up a creamy house-made root beer, big crunchy
hand-dipped onion rings, dreamy sweet potato fries, Coney
dogs drowned in cinnamon-y chili and big pork-loin
sandwiches.
—King Ribs BBQ, 4130 N.
Keystone Ave.; 317-543-0841; and two other locations:
Don't plan on dining at this urban rib shack that, at
first, appears to be a car wash. It's takeout only. Skip
the tough beef ribs, and go straight for a slab of tender
smoky pork ribs and melt-in-your-mouth macaroni and
cheese. And don't forget napkins.
—Traders Point Creamery,
9101 Moore Road; 317-733-1700; tpforganics.com: This farm,
dairy, general store and Loft Restaurant, just outside
Indianapolis, offers a dream come true for those who want
to feel great about eating burgers, omelets, shakes,
cheese and sundaes. These dishes come from grass-fed,
free-roaming chickens and cattle on the premises. The
animals' free-range diet supplies their eggs, meat and
milk with healthy fats and outstanding flavor. Oh, and by
the way, everything is certified organic and positively
delicious.
—Petite Chou by Patachou,
14390 Clay Terrace Blvd., Suite 150, Carmel; 317-566-0765;
cafepatachou.com: This stylish French bistro — a
dinner-serving sister to Indy's six other Patachou Cafes
— pulls off the formidable task of feeling incredibly
sophisticated and family friendly at the same time. We
arrived for breakfast and found delicious crepes, omelets,
salads, tartines, sandwiches, toast topped with house-made
ricotta and the house specialty, broken yolk sandwiches.
—Gray Brothers Cafeteria
and Catering, 555 S. Indiana St., Mooresville;
317-831-3345; graybrotherscatering.com: Cafeterias once
served as a staple of Indy dining, but only a few remain
today. Gray Brothers has been serving up home-style chow
to the Indy area since 1944, and folks still flock
enthusiastically to its huge dark-wooded dining room about
eight miles south of the city. I understood why when I
entered and beheld the longest corridor of cafeteria food
I have ever seen. We loaded up our trays with tasty
versions of Hoosier (sugar cream) pie, Hoosier fried
chicken, beef with noodles, strawberry cheesecake, green
beans, pickled beets and more.
—Shapiro's Deli, 808 S.
Meridian St., Indianapolis; 317-631-4041; and two other
locations; shapiros.com: Those who think you can't find
good deli east of the Hudson may be converted by
Shapiro's, where the juicy corned beef sandwiches piled
high on freshly baked and sliced rye may just be the best
I've ever eaten. Also don't miss the rich matzo ball soup,
excellent pie selection and a lox plate layered with silky
smoked salmon, cream cheese, a chewy toasted bagel and
tart capers.
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