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A
step-by-step guide to the Westside of Los Angeles |
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October
3, 2011 |
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Miri
Matsufuji and Yumi Yonezawa play Cat's Cradle at
the Museum of Jurassic Technology in Culver City,
California, on September 2, 2011. Traveling the
cities on the west side of Los Angeles offers
views of wealth and fame.
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LOS
ANGELES —You’re an outsider heading to the Westside of
Los Angeles — not the beach cities, but Beverly Hills,
Brentwood, Westwood and the nearby well-heeled
neighborhoods south of the Santa Monica Mountains. This
means you’ll be well-fed, well-rested and perhaps more
closely watched by the issuers of your credit cards. And
while the dollars fly, you may learn a little about
wealth, fame, geography and Persian desserts.
For
instance, you’ll realize that Beverly Hills, like the
"Mona Lisa" and certain leading men, is smaller
than you might expect (5.7 square miles). You’ll
recognize Culver City’s connections to Oz and the old
Soviet space program. You’ll be reminded that there’s
a big Santa Monica Boulevard and a little one (aka South
Santa Monica Boulevard), which perplex the uninitiated by
running parallel for more than a mile. In Westwood, you’ll
see how death has united Marilyn Monroe and Rodney
Dangerfield, among others.
For
more on these revelations, here are some Westside stories
— 12 micro-itineraries to get a stranger started.
—Big
screen, small wonders
If
Judy Garland or Alex Trebek makes you swoon, you’ll want
to check out Sony Studios (10202 W. Washington Blvd.) in
Culver City. Its two-hour guided walking tour costs $33
(no children younger than 12) and includes soundstages
where "The Wizard of Oz" was filmed in 1938 and
where "Jeopardy!" has been shot since 1984. If
neither Judy nor Alex makes your world go ‘round, think
twice about this tour. For a more engrossing (and
affordable) experience in the same neighborhood, get thee
to the Museum of Jurassic Technology (9341 Venice Blvd.).
This odd little spot is all about the joy of weird stuff,
presented with great museological pomp. Shuffle through
the tiny dark rooms, your jaw slackening at the sight of
the trailer-park dioramas, Soviet space-dog oil portraits,
a tiny sculpted pope in a needle’s eye and two dead mice
on toast (the consumption of which is described as an old
bed-wetting cure). Don’t miss the tearoom upstairs. Next
door stands the Center for Land Use Interpretation (9331
Venice Blvd.), whose exhibits and publications have probed
the underwater towns of America, the helipads of downtown
L.A. and other notable human interactions with the
landscape.
—Beloved
burgers and newfangled photos
Since
1947 on Pico Boulevard, the Apple Pan (10801 W. Pico
Blvd.) has been offering Angelenos burgers and desserts.
No reservations, no alcohol, no air conditioning. Order
the Hickory burger ($6.75) and maybe a big slice of apple
pie ($5.50) for dessert. Then head two miles northeast to
Century City, where you’ll park beneath the soaring cold
metal and glass of the Creative Artists Agency building.
You have not scored a meeting with CAA’s deal makers,
but they will let you in next door at the Annenberg Space
for Photography (2000 Avenue of the Stars, No. 10), a
nonprofit exhibition space with a video-friendly layout
and sophisticated digital technology. It’s free.
—Shopping
on Rodeo
The
Rodeo Drive shopping experience boils down to about three
blocks. Start at South Santa Monica Boulevard and make
your way southeast, past Brighton and Dayton ways, to
Wilshire Boulevard. See the impeccable salesman wiping
fingerprints off the Cartier shop window? The strange
staircase that architect Rem Koolhaas placed at the front
of the Prada shop? The beckoning faux-European side street
of the Two Rodeo shops? At the far end of your stroll, you’ll
find the Beverly Wilshire (9500 Wilshire Blvd.). This
hotel, run by Four Seasons, is where Warren Beatty once
lived, where Esther Williams taught 14-year-old Elizabeth
Taylor how to swim and where Richard Gere brought Julia
Roberts in "Pretty Woman." It’s not perfect;
an ungraceful ‘70s addition lurks behind the original
1928 building. But it has location, a Wolfgang Puck
steakhouse called Cut and Four Seasons service. Rooms for
two start about $450. If you’re a true retail warrior,
you’re not done shopping yet. Within a few blocks, you’ll
find Barneys New York (9570 Wilshire Blvd.), Neiman Marcus
(9700 Wilshire Blvd.), Niketown (9560 Wilshire Blvd.) and
Saks Fifth Avenue (9600 Wilshire Blvd.).
—Cuisine
on Canon
You
can try La Cienega Boulevard, the official Restaurant Row
of Beverly Hills, some other night. For now, scope out the
high style and smaller scale of the eateries on Canon
Drive between Wilshire and Santa Monica boulevards. At 225
N. Canon (on the ground floor of the Montage Beverly Hills
Hotel), glass windows reveal the steamy kitchen of
Scarpetta, one of the region’s most highly rated Italian
restaurants. There’s Wolfgang Puck’s flagship, Spago
Beverly Hills, at 176 N. Canon Drive. There’s Nic’s
(453 N. Canon Drive), with its lively bar and walk-in,
drink-in vodka freezer. There’s Mastro’s Steakhouse
(246 N. Canon Drive), with its $90, 48-ounce double-cut
porterhouse steaks. And there’s Thomas Keller’s
Bouchon Bistro, at 235 N. Canon Drive. Main dishes in the
upstairs Bouchon dining room are $18-$45. On a budget? Get
the steak salad (about $21) at the little Bouchon Bar
downstairs. If you’ve recently won a lottery or been
signed by CAA, take a few steps across Beverly Canon
Gardens to the Montage and see whether there’s a
vacancy. Montage, opened in late 2008, sports a Spanish
Colonial-Revival look, with dashes of Morocco and Italy,
and plenty of space in its 201 luxury-laden rooms. (Rates
usually start at $495 a night.)
—A
stroll in the park and a cubicle seat
Grab
an all-day parking spot at the Beverly Hills Civic Center
(455 N. Rexford Drive; first two hours free) and walk or
jog on the 1.9-mile greenbelt (aka Beverly Gardens Park)
along Santa Monica Boulevard. At Beverly Drive, if not
before, you’ll realize you have company: That’s where
the big, gold BEVERLY HILLS sign is, and tourists arrive
day and night to pose by the letters. If it’s Sunday
morning, head next to the weekly farmers market at 9300
Civic Center Drive. If it’s between noon and 5 p.m.
Wednesdays through Sundays, step into the Paley Center for
Media (465 N. Beverly Drive), where you can watch or
listen to any of 150,000 old TV and radio shows. Yes, it
has the 1962 black-and-white first episode of "The
Beverly Hillbillies," in which the Clampetts strike
oil and come to town. It also has the 1955 "I Love
Lucy" episode in which Lucy and Ethel go rogue on a
tour of the stars’ homes. Suggested donation: $10 per
adult.
—Nate,
Al, Ali and Vanessa
Nate
‘n Al, the deli at 414 N. Beverly Drive, dates to the
1940s. You can count on ample supplies of matzo ball soup
and perhaps some schmoozing by talk-show icon Larry King,
who’s been a breakfast regular for years. When you’re
full, stroll down the block and boldly step into the
Taschen store (354 N. Beverly Drive). But leave the young
ones at home. This elegantly arranged shop, which feels
more like a gallery, is full of pricey, arty, lavish and
often naughty books. You’ll find a $70 copy of
"Linda McCartney: Life in Photographs," a
$15,000 "champ’s edition" of the Muhammad Ali
tribute volume "GOAT" and a $700 appreciation of
porn star Vanessa del Rio, promiscuously illustrated.
—Hotel
haven
Beverly
Hills and environs have plenty of famous hotels, including
the luxury-laden Peninsula Beverly Hills and L’Ermitage,
the celebrity-heavy Four Seasons Hotel (just outside
Beverly Hills) and the massive Beverly Hilton. But the
elder statesman is the 210-room Beverly Hills Hotel (9641
Sunset Blvd.), which opened in 1912. Just a glimpse of the
lobby’s golden glow and artful palm fronds hints that
fame and fortune are concentrated here, and the rack rates
confirm it: $475 a night and up. So maybe you’ll settle
for breakfast in its Polo Lounge, where orange juice is
$8. But like Grace Kelly, Cary Grant and Marilyn Monroe
before you, maybe you’ll prefer a place to hide. In that
case, the Beverly Hills Hotel’s slightly pricier
sibling, the Hotel Bel Air (701 Stone Canyon Road) will
reopen Oct. 14 after a two-year-closure to add 12 rooms
and a spa. In case you’ve lost track of who owns both of
these lodgings, it’s the Brunei Investment Agency — in
other words, the sultan of Brunei.
—SoBev
and beyond
First,
fuel up in SoBev (Beverly Drive south of Wilshire
Boulevard in Beverly Hills) with breakfast or lunch at the
affordable, busy Urth Caffe (267 S. Beverly Drive). Now,
slowly drive past Heath Avenue and Olympic Boulevard,
where you’ll spy the backside of Beverly Hills High
School (241 Moreno Drive) and the campus oil well, wrapped
in what looks like an enormous floral-patterned oven mitt.
Three blocks east of the oil well, on Olympic, pause at
Roxbury Memorial Park, where there’s tennis, soccer,
baseball and play structures. Now ready yourself for a
sobering look at multiculturalism, history and the
Holocaust, tailored for children and adults. That’s the
mission of the Museum of Tolerance (9786 W. Pico Blvd.;
adult admission $15.50) Surely you’re wrung out, so
consider the 49-room Mosaic Hotel (125 S. Spalding Drive),
which sometimes has discount rates as low as $225 nightly.
—The
Bruins’ Den
Maybe
it will help you feel young to see those UCLA freshmen
kicking a ball around on the lawn between Royce Hall and
Powell Library. Or maybe, recalling that these kids were
born in 1993, you’ll feel otherwise. Either way, with
its 420 acres and nearly 40,000 students, the UCLA campus
in Westwood will stretch your legs and brain. Wander on
your own or join one of the free student-led tours for
prospective students and their parents most weekdays and
Saturdays (( www.admissions.ucla.edu/tours.htm).
At Royce Hall, the 2011-2012 season’s 36 gigs include
violinist Itzhak Perlman, author Joan Didion and banjo
master Earl Scruggs. On the sidewalks of neighboring
Westwood Village, you will find the Geffen Playhouse
(10886 Le Conte Ave.), which often features big names on
its stage, and the Hammer Museum (10899 Wilshire Blvd.),
which spotlights cutting-edge contemporary art.
—The
stars at rest and a Persian dessert
Just
south of Wilshire Boulevard, hidden behind a clutch of
tall buildings, you’ll find the Pierce Bros. Westwood
Village Memorial Park and Mortuary, a grassy territory
covering barely 2 acres. Marilyn Monroe rests in a crypt
(her name surrounded by lipstick kisses) near the northern
corner of the property. The graves of Jack Lemmon, Karl
Malden and Walter Matthau are nearby, along with others
who couldn’t resist one more punch line. Rodney
Dangerfield’s headstone: "There goes the
neighborhood." You’ll also notice a lot of Persian
names and writing in the neighborhood; thousands of
Persians, many of them Jewish, arrived when Islamic
fundamentalists took over Iran in the late 1970s. About
five blocks south of the cemetery, step into modest
Saffron&Rose Ice Cream (1387 Westwood Blvd.), a family
business that specializes in Persian flavors. The top
seller is an explosion of sweetness known as
saffron-pistachio.
—Brentwood’s
Barn and Ark
The
Brentwood Country Mart (225 26th St., Santa Monica) looks
like a bad idea. In one of California’s elite
neighborhoods, a low-rise fake barn? Really? Yet locals
love it. The Country Mart, which opened in 1948 as a
smaller version of the Farmers Market in the Fairfax area,
has more than 25 boutiques and stalls, a handful of casual
eateries, one stylish bookshop and two little courtyards.
Next, hop on Interstate 405 and head north to the Skirball
Cultural Center (2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd.), whose exhibits
and performances aim to connect Jewish culture with
American history. If you’re younger than 10, the
highlight is Noah’s Ark, an 8,000-square-foot
interactive Old Testament playground. You’ll want
time-certain reservations ($5 a kid ages 2-12, $10 per
adult) for visits on weekends, Thursdays or holidays.
Crowds are lighter on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
—Culture
castle
When
Southern California devolves into feudalism, the sensible
place for the new king will be atop Brentwood in the
gleaming, sprawling Getty Center. This museum, backed by
billions from late oil man J. Paul Getty, opened in 1997,
its campus covering 110 acres. Park underground (parking
is $15, museum admission is free). Take the monorail up
the hill and head for the West Pavilion, which houses
photography below and Impressionists above, including Van
Gogh’s vibrant "Irises," the museum’s
biggest star. Before long you’ll want to snack at one of
the center’s two cafes, or maybe a fancy lunch farther
upstairs at the Restaurant, which has a mountain view.
Then, like one of David Hockney’s figures disappearing
into a deep blue pool, you dive back into the art.
———
IF
YOU GO:
WHERE
TO STAY:
Montage
Beverly Hills Hotel, 225 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills
90210; (310) 860-7800, www.montagebeverlyhills.com.
Opened in November, 2008 with 201 rooms, including 55
suites. Doubles $525-$775.
Beverly
Hills Hotel&Bungalows, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly
Hills 92010; (310) 276 2251, www.beverlyhillshotel.com.
210 rooms, including 38 suites and 23 bungalows. Double
rooms $475-$840.
Mosaic
Hotel, 125 S. Spalding Drive, Beverly Hills 90212; (800)
463-4466 or (310) 278-0303, www.mosaichotel.com.
49 rooms. Doubles $250-$350.
Beverly
Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd.,
Beverly Hills 90212; (310) 275-5200, www.fourseasons.com/beverlywilshire.
The "Pretty Woman" hotel. Has 395 rooms,
including 141 suites. Doubles $450-$625.
WHERE
TO EAT:
Bouchon
Bistro, 235 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills 90210; (310)
271-9910, www.bouchonbistro.com.
Main dishes $18-$45.
Saffron&Rose
Ice Cream, 1387 Westwood Blvd., Los Angeles 90025; (310)
477-5533; www.golobolbol.org.
One scoop: $3.25.
Apple
Pan, 10801 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles 90064; (310)
475-3585, www.applepan.com.
Opened 1947. Open 11 a.m. to midnight Tuesdays-Thursdays
and Sundays, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays.
Burgers, sandwiches and desserts at prices up to $7.75.
Nic’s,
435 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills 90210; (310) 550-5707, www.nicsbeverlyhills.com.
Lively bar, colorful dining room. Main dishes $24-$43.
Nate
‘n Al, 414 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills 90210; (310)
274-0101, www.natenal.com.
An old-school deli that dates to 1945. Main dishes up to
$21.95.
Urth
Caffe, 267 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills 90212; (310)
205-9311, www.urthcaffe.com.
An L.A.-area chain with four locations. Organic coffees,
sandwiches, salads and baked goods.
WHAT
TO SEE:
Pierce
Brothers Westwood Village Memorial Park and Mortuary, 1218
Glendon Ave., Los Angeles 90024; (310) 474-1579, www.pbwvmortuary.com.
Marilyn Monroe and many others. Visiting hours 8
a.m.-dusk. Graves and mausoleums.
Getty
Center, 1200 Getty Center Drive, Los Angeles 90049; (310)
440-7300, www.getty.edu.
Open 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. most days, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.
Saturdays, closed Mondays. Admission free. Parking is $15
a car, or free after 5 p.m. No reservations required or
accepted.
Museum
of Jurassic Technology, 9341 Venice Blvd., Culver City
90232; (310) 836-6131, www.mjt.org.
Open 2-8 p.m. Thursdays, noon-6 p.m. Fridays-Sundays.
Suggested donations $5 for adults, $3 for children 12 to
21, free for those younger than 12.
UCLA,
405 Hilgard Ave., Los Angeles 90095; (310) 825-4321, www.ucla.edu.
Free, two-hour walking tours for prospective students and
their families, led by students, are offered at 10:15 a.m.
and 2:15 p.m. most weekdays, and at 10:15 a.m. most
Saturdays. Reservations required. www.admissions.ucla.edu/Prospect/tours.htm
Hammer
Museum, 10899 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles 90024; (310)
433-7000, www.hammer.ucla.edu.
Closed Mondays. Opens at 11 a.m. Tuesdays-Sundays; closes
5 p.m. Sundays, 7 p.m. Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and
Saturdays, and 9 p.m. Thursdays. Admission $10 for adults,
free for children accompanied by an adult.
Geffen
Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Los Angeles 90024; (310)
208-5454, www.geffenplayhouse.com.
Skirball
Cultural Center, 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Los Angeles
90049; (310) 440-4500, www.skirball.org.
Admission $10 for adults, $5 for children. Closed Mondays.
Open noon-5 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays; 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
weekends. Time-certain reservations recommended for Noah’s
Ark.
Center
for Land Use Interpretation, 9331 Venice Blvd., Culver
City 90232; (310) 839-5722, www.clui.org.
Open noon-5 p.m. Fridays-Sundays.
Kirk
Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City 90232;
(213) 628-2772, www.centertheatregroup.org.
Live theater in a 317-seat venue since 2004.
Annenberg
Space for Photography. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, No. 10,
Los Angeles 90067; (213) 403-3000, www.annenbergspaceforphotography.org.
Open 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays. Admission is free.
Validated self-parking is usually $3.50 for three hours.
Paley
Center for Media, 465 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills
90210; (310) 786-1000, www.paleycenter.org/visit-visitla.
Exhibits, events, and a library of 150,000 TV and radio
programs and ads, which you can watch on site. Open noon-5
p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays. Suggested contribution $10 for
adults, $5 for children younger than 14.
Museum
of Tolerance, 9786 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles 90035; (310)
553-8403, www.museumoftolerance.com.
Closed Saturdays. Adults $15.50, ages 5-18 $11.50.
Beverly
Canon Gardens, 241 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills 90210;
(310) 285-2408, www.beverlyhills.org/services/rec/parks/beverly(underscore)canon
(underscore)gardens.asp.
A tiny park in the heart of a shopping district, with
chairs, tables, fountain and grass.
Beverly
Gardens Park, Beverly Hills 90210; This 1.9-mile linear
park, which has no street address, runs along Santa Monica
Boulevard between Whittier and Doheny drives, with
greenery and a pedestrian path. It also has the city’s
40-foot-long BEVERLY HILLS sign, near North Beverly Drive.
Roxbury
Park, 471 S. Roxbury Drive, Beverly Hills 90212; (310)
285-6840, www.beverlyhills.org/services/rec/parks/roxbury.asp.
This 11-acre park includes sports fields, picnic areas,
four tennis courts and children playgrounds.
Sony
Studios, 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City 90232;
(310) 244-8687, www.sonypicturesstudiostours.com.
This is where "Wizard of Oz" was shot in 1938
and where "Jeopardy!" has been shot since 1984.
Walking tours last about two hours, open to ages 12 and
above, $33 per person. Tours begin at 9:30 and 10:30 a.m.,
1:30 and 2:30 p.m. daily.
Brentwood
Country Mart, 225 26th St., Santa Monica 90402; (310)
395-9666, www.brentwoodcountrymart.com.
Two dozen trendy shops and half a dozen spots for food.
Opened in 1948.
Taschen
Books, 354 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills 90210; (310)
274-4300, www.taschen.com. Fancy and sexy books, many in
limited editions at eye-popping prices.
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Associated Press
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