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Snorkel
into a real-life aquarium full of rich marine
life, colorful corals off the white-sand beaches
of St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands.
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ST. JOHN,
U.S. Virgin Islands - St. John is one of the best places
in the world to go snorkeling, but snorkeling gets
little respect.
Hollywood
and television have glamorized scuba diving.
Jacques-Yves Cousteau developed scuba diving and was an
A-list celebrity. Lloyd Bridges starred as Mike Nelson
in television's "Sea Hunt." Nick Nolte and
Jacqueline Bisset starred in "The Deep." But
no one makes television shows or movies about
snorkeling. Less sizzle.
Yet
snorkeling is a very cool way to get wet and wild and
see underwater worlds of corals, sea fans and
technicolored fish. It is a little unnerving to go
eyeball to eyeball with a toothy 3-foot barracuda and
it's impressive to see colorful corals, sea turtles and
sponges up close. It's a chance to peek inside a
bigger-than-life aquarium.
Snorkeling
requires little equipment and minimal training. If you
can swim, you can snorkel. You get fins, a mask, a
breathing tube and a swim vest.
If you
snorkel in the Virgin Islands, the Caymans, the Bahamas,
other Caribbean islands or the Florida Keys, you will
find great visibility and lots to see underwater.
Coral
reefs occupy less than 1 percent of the Earth's surface
but are home to 25 percent of all marine fish species.
They rival rain forests for species diversity and
biological productivity.
But it is
a sensitive marine environment. Coral reefs grow only
one to two inches per year and reefs take several
hundred years to form.
St. John
is famed for its snorkeling because of its 39 white-
sand beaches, warm water and rich marine life. The reefs
are also close to shore and that makes them easily
accessible.
Trunk Bay
on the north shore of St. John in the 12,708-acre Virgin
Islands National Park is widely acknowledged as one of
the prettiest beaches anywhere in the world. The
quarter-mile-long beach is fringed by palms and sea
grapes.
It also
is home to a secret underwater world, complete with a
225-yard, self-guided snorkeling trail. It features
underwater signs in 10 to 15 feet of water identifying
coral reef life.
The
triangular Trunk Bay underwater trail starts near the
lifeguard stand on Trunk Bay and will take you about 30
minutes to explore.
It's a
great snorkeling spot for beginners. The water tends to
be calm and clear. The coral is in good shape, despite
the number of visitors it gets, and fish are numerous.
Its reefs are home to the island's largest number of
puddingfish. You will probably see yellowtail snappers
and blue chromi.
You may
see basketball-size brain, lettuce leaf, elkhorn, knobby
mustard hill, finger, star and pillar corals.
Queen
angelfish, striped sergeant majors, parrotfish and spiny
lobsters live along the coral reefs.
Snappers
and grunts migrate from the reefs to the seagrass beds
at night.
You may
even find yourself in the center of a school of small
wriggling fish, an eye-opening experience.
But Trunk
Bay can be crowded, especially on days when ocean liners
dock at nearby St. Thomas. If you want solitude, arrive
early or late at Trunk Bay.
There is
a $4 a day fee for visitors 17 and older at Trunk Bay.
The
National Park Service offers guided snorkeling trips on
Tuesday mornings at Trunk Bay. Bring your own gear.
Nearly
half of the national park is underwater. It features
fringing and patch coral reefs, mangrove swamps and
seagrass beds.
The 11
snorkeling spots on St. John's north shore include
Cinnamon, Jumbie, Salt Pond, Caneel, Hawksnest, Maho and
Francis bays.
Maho is
known for the sea turtles that are attracted to its
seagrass beds.
Francis
Bay is known for its jacks and tarpon, predator fish,
along with squid, jewfish, octopus and sea cucumbers.
Three
lesser-publicized but stellar snorkeling spots are
Waterlemon Cay near the historic Annaberg Plantation on
the island's northeast coast; Haulover Bay on the
island's east end; and Flanagan's Cay on the east end.
All three are more secluded - with lots of underwater
critters.
To get to
Waterlemon Cay, you will have to hike about a mile along
Leinster Bay on loose rock. The cay sits about 300 yards
offshore, with a reef ringing its base.
Between
the beach and the reef, you will probably find starfish,
sea cucumbers, green turtles and stingrays in up to 20
feet of water.
It is
shallower at the reef, which is filled with blue tang
and parrotfish. What you will find at Waterlemon Cay is
an underwater world that is larger and more colorful
than what you found at Trunk Bay.
St.
John's reefs have thrived, in part because there is
little runoff from the park-protected island.
As a
general rule, snorkelers do not want to touch any
objects or animals underwater. Touching coral can kill
it.
Sea
urchins, fire coral and bristle worms can be painful.
Feeding
animals in the park is illegal.
All sea
turtles are endangered or threatened and are protected.
Always
snorkel with a buddy.
You want
to float and stay horizontal, not vertical. Practice
kicking so that you don't splash. The key is to be
comfortable with the equipment and with breathing.
All St.
John beaches are public to the vegetation line.
Other St.
John activities include hiking, sea kayaking,
windsurfing and enjoying the island's night life and
eco-tourist camps.
The
mountainous island has heavy vegetation. Civilization is
nestled around Cruz Bay on the west end. It is an island
where you can be pampered or you can be adventurous.
The only
way to get to St. John is by boat or via ferry from
nearby St. Thomas, a more ritzy and urbane island.
A
four-wheel-drive vehicle is a must for the curvy
mountain roads.
For
information about the park, contact Virgin Islands
National Park, 1300 Cruz Bay Creek, St. John, VI 00831;
340- 776-6201. You can also check out http://www.nps.gov/viis.
For tourist information, contact the Virgin Islands
Department of Tourism, P.O. Box 200, St. John, VI 00831;
340-776-6450; http://www.usvitourism.vi/en/stjohn/sjHome.html.
The No. 1
snorkeling spot in the continental United States is the
Dry Tortugas, a cluster of seven islands that lie 70
miles west of Key West, Fla.
The park
is accessible only by boat or seaplanes out of Key West
or Naples.
The park,
with 64,700 underwater acres, features spectacular coral
reefs, a sunken ship and an old fort. Depths are up to
20 feet.
For
information, contact Dry Tortugas National Park at P.O.
Box 6208. Key West, FL 33041; 305-242-7700 or http://www.nps.gov/drto.
You can
contact Biscayne National Park at 9700 S.W. 328th St.,
Homestead, FL 33033; 305- 230-7275 or 305-230-1144;
http://www.nps.gov/bisc.
You can
also get Florida Keys information at 800-352-5397
(800-FLA-KEYS); or http://www.fla-keys.com.