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L.A.'s
sandbox: South Bay cities of Hermosa, Redondo, Manhattan
Beach and more |
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September
5, 2011 |
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Participants
in the King Harbor Youth Foundation Summer Sailing
program work inside the breakwater of King Harbor
in Redondo Beach, California.
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LOS
ANGELES — We’ll call the movie "Three Beaches and
an Airport." It’ll star Hugh Grant as a buttoned-up
business traveler who is separated from his job, money and
luggage at LAX, then befriended by a team of wise-cracking
Olympic volleyballers who introduce him to the sun-baked,
wave-splashed piers and brew pubs of L.A.’s South Bay.
In no time, he soars to entrepreneurial success, leading
beach-cruiser bike tours along the Strand, living in an
ocean-view condo and driving a shiny convertible. The only
problem is he can almost never find parking. And when he
does, it’s a quarter for every 12 minutes.
Oh,
never mind. Forget Hugh, grab a fistful of quarters
yourself and see the real South Bay. Here, as part of our
Southern California Close-Ups series, are seven
micro-itineraries in Redondo Beach, Hermosa Beach and
Manhattan Beach, along with tips for LAX (about seven
miles north) and Marina del Rey (about 12 miles north). We’ll
tell you what to pay for an hour on a beach cruiser (that’s
a bike, not a person); where to sleep by the airport; why
fish and ice cream belong together in Manhattan Beach; and
why Jay Leno slips away to Hermosa Beach most Sunday
nights.
—Pedal
the Strand
The
Strand bike path covers the South Bay coast, stretching
south to Palos Verdes and north to Playa del Rey, and, if
you’re ready to pedal around Marina del Rey, you can
bicycle all the way north to Pacific Palisades. That’s a
22-mile trip, with scarcely a break in the waterfront
scenery, lively humanity and architectural triumphs and
follies. Start by renting a bike from Hermosa Cyclery, 20
13th St., Hermosa Beach, where one-speed beach cruisers
start at $7 an hour and high-end road and mountain bikes
go for as much as $60 a day. Before you start burning
calories, take some breakfast or lunch aboard at Good
Stuff (1286 the Strand), which has a pleasant patio just a
few steps away from the bike shop. Down south near the
Redondo pier complex, you’ll pass close by Polly’s on
the Pier (233 N. Harbor Drive), a breakfast-lunch joint.
As you’re rolling through Manhattan Beach, enjoy the
greenery between the pedestrian and cycle paths. And
notice how, as you go north, the houses get bigger and
bolder. Once you’ve returned your wheels to the Cyclery,
you can walk about 10 blocks up Pier Avenue to the
Rockefeller (418-422 Pier Ave.), a recently opened spot
for craft beer, artisan burgers, open-air dining and
sports on TV.
—Redondo’s
Riviera
Redondo
Beach has a pier and beachfront complex designed just for
tourists — a place where visitors who like a
rough-around-the-edges destination can stroll over the
ocean, buy urchins at Quality Seafood (130 International
Boardwalk), rent a paddle boat, sleep at the Portofino
Hotel (260 Portofino Way), duck into the din of a dark
arcade or catch a tribute band at Brixton South Bay (100
Fishermans Wharf, No. J). The grittiness and kitsch of the
Redondo pier won’t please everybody. For a more
sophisticated scene, head south of the pier to Riviera
Village, a quiet, upscale neighborhood that includes
excellent beaches and ocean views along the Esplanade and
a great collection of eateries (Redondo Beach Brewing Co.,
Dolce Vita desserts, H.T. Grill) and shops along South
Catalina Avenue between Avenue D and Palos Verdes
Boulevard. For a break from surf and turf, eat at the
calm, vegetarian, Asian-inflected oasis known as the Green
Temple (1700 S. Catalina Ave.).
—High-style
Hermosa
Hermosa
Beach is just 1.3 square miles. But it has plenty of
action, beginning with the surfers in the water, the
anglers on the pier and the world-class volleyball players
thumping and sprawling by the nets on the sand. To explore
all this from an upscale perch, begin by booking the Beach
House at Hermosa Beach (1300 the Strand), where summer
rates start at $299. Stroll up a few blocks to Java Man
(157 Pier Ave.), a popular neighborhood coffee spot in a
converted bungalow on a handsome bend of Pier Avenue. Then
go body surf or bike or stroll a little more, and break
for lunch and browsing at Gum Tree (238 Pier Ave.). This
is another converted bungalow, its interior split between
a gift and home shop and a cafe. House-made granola?
Check. Four-dollar organic peanut butter and jelly
sandwiches for the kids? Check.
—Pier,
plaza, party!
Hermosa
Beach’s Pier Plaza is the last little bit of street
before the beach itself begins. It’s also where the
hard-partying 22-year-olds tend to end up. If that’s
your scene, the plaza is car-free, lined by palm trees and
chock-full of raucous bars and restaurants. The loudest
might be Baja Sharkeez (52 Pier Ave.), which burned down
in 2006 and reopened in 2008. The oldest and grungiest
include the Mermaid (11 Pier Ave.) and the Poop Deck (next
door at 1272 the Strand). The best view probably belongs
to the upstairs deck at Hennessey’s Tavern (8 Pier
Ave.). One of the newer spots is a shrine to surfing
called Watermans (22 Pier Ave.). And on the two floors
above, you’ll find the 15-year-old Surf City Hostel (26
Pier Ave.). It must be as loud as a train station, and it
fills its 67 beds with budget travelers who share dorm
rooms and bathrooms, stash their bikes and surfboards in
the hall and pay summer rates of $30 to $35 a night.
—Jay’s
other job
Leno’s
day job pays pretty well and keeps him busy. Yet the host
of "The Tonight Show" continues to moonlight
like a man whose mortgage is on the line. Most Sundays, he
takes the stage at the Comedy&Magic Club (1018 Hermosa
Ave.) in Hermosa Beach, testing new material in a
black-box space with about 250 seats. Buy a $32 ticket to
the 7 p.m. show, turn up soon after 5 p.m. (when the doors
open), and you stand a good chance of claiming one of the
18 seats on the lip of the small stage. You’re required
to order at least two items from the menu, but some beers
are less than $6. And you may get some big laughs from the
two or three other comedians who typically precede Leno.
Chances are he’ll come out about 8 p.m. and do an hour.
After all these years on television, Leno gets taken for
granted. So it’s strange and funny to see him pacing the
stage and demonstrating such wit, memory, energy and
subtlety, all the while standing about as far from you as
the TV is from your couch.
—For
young and old
Yes,
there are three major South Bay piers, and they’re all
reasonably kid-friendly. But the Manhattan Beach Pier is
the one with a little aquarium at the end. The Roundhouse
Marine Studies Lab and Aquarium operates inside the
eight-sided Roundhouse building (built in 1922, rebuilt in
1991), and it’s free (though donations of $5 a family
are suggested). It’s tiny, but it has just enough to
quicken the pulse of a junior oceanographer — sea star
touch tanks, eels and fish of various stripes, a leopard
shark and more. Less than two blocks away, the Manhattan
Beach Creamery (1120 Manhattan Ave.) awaits with ice cream
and other sweet treats. And later, when it’s time for a
proper meal, there’s the 11-year-old Rock’n Fish (120
Manhattan Beach Blvd.) restaurant with seafood, steaks and
convivial atmosphere. Or there’s the Strand House (117
Manhattan Beach Blvd.), a sleek new fine-dining place (the
Zislis Group, same owner as Rock’n Fish) that opened
across the street in early August. To start, the Strand
House was serving only dinner, but staffers say weekend
brunches are coming soon.
—Bagels
and Metlox
Walk
a few blocks up the hill from the Manhattan Beach Pier on
Manhattan Beach Boulevard, pass Noah’s Bagels on your
right, and look left. That’s Metlox, a sun-splashed
semi-minimalist collection of shops and restaurants that’s
too genteel to call a mall. (The median household income
in Manhattan Beach is more than $100,000, which makes it
the wealthiest of the three beach-city neighbors.) There’s
sushi over here, Mediterranean food over there, plus a spa
and Le Pain Quotidien bakery. And there’s the Shade
Hotel (1221 N. Valley Drive). It opened in 2005 (the
Zislis Group again), and if you’re wealthy enough to pay
(it’s $295 nightly in winter, $395 in summer), it’s
the coolest lodging in the South Bay. Its public areas are
handsome and modern (except that the upstairs pool is too
small for anything but a quick splash), and the guest
rooms have spa jets in their two-person tubs, along with
retracting screens between the bathroom and bedroom areas.
If you’re not quite wealthy enough — and if you’re
antsy about easy airport access — the Belamar Hotel
(3501 Sepulveda Blvd.) might make sense. Though it has the
feel of a business lodging (with boutique flourishes), it’s
less than two miles from the beach, connected to downtown
Manhattan Beach by the Hermosa Valley Greenbelt footpath
and less than four miles from LAX, with nightly rates that
start around $180.
—Hotel
confidential
No
leisure traveler should spend more than a single night in
one of those big hotels in the soulless zone that is
Century Boulevard. But if you have a late-night arrival or
early-morning departure, or both, that single night can be
crucial. When that time comes, remember that the big
airport hotels have free LAX shuttle bus service with
departures every 15 to 20 minutes and that their rates are
often a lot lower on weekends, when business travel slows.
Also, many of these hotels have specials offering up to a
week of free parking if you book a room for just one
night. Three good choices are the 802-room Starwood-affiliated
Sheraton Gateway (6101 W. Century Blvd.), the 499-room
Marriott-affiliated Renaissance Los Angeles Airport Hotel
(9620 Airport Blvd.) and the 740-room Starwood-affiliated
Westin Los Angeles Airport Hotel (5400 W. Century Blvd.).
All have discounts on the weekend, when rooms drop to $130
or less; the Westin’s rates sometimes drop below $100.
(Weekday rates can be twice as high.) All have heated
outdoor pools and club levels, and in-house restaurants
serving all three meals. All three ding you for parking
and Wi-Fi, adding about $40 a night unless you’ve
grabbed one of those free-parking packages.
—In
the white spider
You
know you’ve wondered exactly what’s inside that
spider-legged Jetsons-era Theme Building in the middle of
LAX. The building and its Encounter lunch-and-dinner
restaurant just came out of a three-year renovation in
2010. So maybe, if you have a couple of airport hours to
kill outside the security checkpoint, it’s time to
explore. There’s a free observation deck up top that’s
open on weekends from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. By day, concrete
dominates the view. So wait until sunset, when takeoffs
and landings show up better, and head for Encounter for a
drink or a meal. You’ll hear a goofball sci-fi
soundtrack as you ride the elevator, and you’ll find
lava lamps all around. The menu (dinner entrees about
$18-$29) has won the restaurant high rankings among
airport eateries nationwide. But be advised that unless
you drink way too much, the restaurant will not spin. It
never has. (In its grooviest days before 9/11, Encounter
buzzed with diners and drinkers and didn’t close until 2
a.m. Nowadays, it closes at 9 or 9:30 p.m., depending on
the night.) And if none of this quite satisfies your
plane-craziness, just a few blocks away, close by a busy
runway, awaits the Proud Bird (11022 Aviation Blvd.), a
restaurant that since 1962 has been fixated on the fun of
flight. Not only do its window tables and patio offer
prime views of landing jets, but its backyard is also
decorated with more than a dozen historic planes.
—To
float your boat
Just
10 miles north of Manhattan Beach and right next to
Venice, Marina del Rey is an 800-acre sailors’ haven —
a man-made lagoon with six hotels, six yacht clubs and
about two dozen marinas and anchorages along its shores.
Take a toddler to Mother’s Beach near Admiralty and
Palawan ways. Take a picnic to Burton W. Chace Park (a
grassy knoll surrounded on three sides by water and
boats). Rent just about any kind of watercraft you can
imagine or sign onto a harbor cruise (( www.visitmarinadelrey.com).
Or, if it’s a Wednesday from mid-April through early
September, grab a sweater, take a patio seat at Shanghai
Red’s (13813 Fiji Way) and order a happy hour drink and
snack (4 to 7 p.m.). Then lean back and watch sailboats by
the score as they head out to open water for the
California Yacht Club’s weekly Sunset Series regatta
(beginning at 5:55 p.m. Wednesdays). The boats head back
in again as the sun sets. By the way, don’t expect
Chinese food at Shanghai Red’s. It’s been a
surf-and-turf standby, with room for about 200 on that
patio, for more than 40 years.
———
IF
YOU GO:
WHERE
TO STAY:
Beach
House at Hermosa Beach, 1300 the Strand, Hermosa Beach
90254; (310) 374-3001, www.beach-house.com. 96 rooms.
Doubles $229-$349 winter, $299-$489 summer.
Shade
Hotel, 1221 N. Valley Drive, Manhattan Beach 90266; (310)
546-4995, www.shadehotel.com.
38 rooms. Doubles $295 winter, $395 summer.
Sheraton
Gateway, 6101 W. Century Blvd., Los Angeles 90045; (310)
642-1111, www.sheratonlax.com.
802 rooms. Doubles $119-$159 weekends, $195-$229 weekdays.
Belamar
Hotel, 3501 Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach 90266; (310)
750-0300, thebelamar.com. 127 rooms. Doubles $179-$289.
Renaissance
Los Angeles Airport Hotel, 9620 Airport Blvd., Los Angeles
90045; (310) 337-2800, www.marriott.com.
499 rooms and suites. Doubles about $129-$149 weekends,
$229 weekdays.
Westin
Los Angeles Airport Hotel, 5400 W. Century Blvd., Los
Angeles 90045; (310) 216-5858, www.westinlosangelesairport.com.
740 rooms. In summer, weekend rates dip as low as $79.
Doubles usually about $139 weekends, $229 weekdays.
Portofino
Hotel, 260 Portofino Way, Redondo Beach 90277; (310)
379-8481, www.hotelportofino.com.
160 rooms. Doubles usually $189-$289.
Surf
City Hostel, 26 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach 90254; (310)
798-2323, www.surfcityhostel.com.
Three private rooms and several dorm rooms. Shared baths
and kitchen. Rates $25 a person winter, $30-$35 summer.
WHERE
TO EAT:
Strand
House, 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach 90266;
(310) 545-7470, www.thestrandhousemb.com.
Dinner main dishes $23-$39.
Green
Temple, 1700 S. Catalina Ave., No. 103, Redondo Beach
90277; (310) 944-4525. Vegetarian. Main dishes $11-$15.
Gum
Tree Cafe, 238 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach 90254; (310)
376-8733, www.gumtreela.com.
Breakfast and lunch up to $11. Closed Mondays.
Watermans,
22 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach 90254; (310) 372-4462,
www.watermanshb.com. Entrees $8-$29.
Good
Stuff, 1286 the Strand, Hermosa Beach 90254; (310)
374-2334, www.eatgoodstuff.com.
Breakfast and lunch main dishes up to $10.59.
Rockefeller,
422 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach 90254; (310) 372-8567, www.eatrockefeller.com.
Beer, wine, burgers and sandwiches. Entrees up to $14.
Manhattan
Beach Creamery, 1120 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach
90266; (310) 372-1155. www.mbcreamery.com.
One scoop of ice cream $3.50.
Rock’n
Fish, 120 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach 90266;
(310) 379-9900, www.rocknfishmb.com.
Most main dishes $14-$40,
Encounter,
209 World Way, LAX, Los Angeles 90045; (310) 215-5151,
www.encounterlax.com. Lunch and dinner daily. Dinner main
dishes $18-$29.
Proud
Bird, 11022 Aviation Blvd., Los Angeles 90045; (310)
670-3093, www.theproudbird.com.
Lunch and dinner daily, with Sunday brunch from 9 a.m.
Dinner main dishes $14-$39.
Shanghai
Red’s, 13813 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey 90292; (310)
823-4522, www.shanghairedsrestaurant.com.
Dinner nightly, lunch weekdays, brunch weekends. Dinner
main dishes $16-$37.
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