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Visitors
in the parking lot after watching sunrise atop
Haleakala, a volcano rising 10,023 feet in
Haleakala National Park on Maui, Hawaii.
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HALEAKALA
NATIONAL PARK, Hawaii — Face it — we were born way too
late. Barring a biblical revelation, we’ll never know
what the Beginning of Everything looked like, whether it
was a Creation or a Big Bang or something else we haven’t
figured out.
But
after one sunrise on Haleakala, I do know what an epic
earthly event looks like.
You
fly to Maui, take to your hotel bed nice and early, and
ask for a wake-up call around 2:30 a.m. Then, even though
this is a balmy Hawaiian island, you bundle up and drive
up the slope of the dead volcano that dominates the island’s
geography. Or catch a tour bus; many make the trip every
day. However you go, you’ll need to reach the summit
observation area of Haleakala National Park a few minutes
before dawn.
When
you step to the railing, you’ll be 9,740 feet above sea
level. The landscape below will be cloaked in darkness,
and the wind will be gusting at 40 degrees or so, which
will feel arctic after days of 76-degree breezes.
Then
the darkness will begin to come alive, and even though
your fingers are going numb, you’ll likely forget them
as the hints of first light rake the moonscape below. The
eastern horizon will erupt in golden rays, the sky will go
crazy with yellow and orange light, and as the sun begins
to warm the mountaintop, clouds of sunlit mist will swirl
and race down the rough black slope. Even though those
golden Maui beaches and deep blue seas are miles away and
invisible, you know they’re waiting. You’re on top of
the world, enlightened, breathless and beginning to feel
your fingers again.
Then
again, your Haleakala sunrise may be nothing like this.
Especially in winter, locals say, many early mornings are
rain-soaked and cloud-bound. If you draw one of those, you
could spend your twilight years whining to friends and
family about the day you nearly froze on a tropical
island.