Kauai's North Shore, Mother Nature paints with green
trees frame the beauty of Hanalei Bay on Kauai's
North shore, on March 3, 2014. Formerly used for
shipping, the low-slung concrete pier at Hanalei Bay
has appeared in movies like South Pacific.
Hawaii — On the North Shore of Hawaii’s northernmost
island, the earth writhes like a topographer’s fever
dream — 3,000-foot cliffs, plunging waterfalls, tangled
green valleys and sharp, serrated ridgelines. That’s the
Na Pali Coast.
east of those cliffs, Kauai’s Kuhio Highway carries you
past taro fields, a seaside village, a two-mile crescent
of sand and a 300-foot pier that’s dwarfed by mountains,
greenery and surging surf. This is Hanalei Bay, which
Hollywood would have had to create if Mother Nature hadn’t.
might know this neighborhood from "South
Pacific" (1958). Or "The Descendants"
(2011). Or — attention, TV geeks — the pilot for
"Gilligan’s Island" (shot in 1963).
Waikiki is the classic crowded Hawaiian beach, the North
Shore is the iconic coastal outpost.
everything looks a bit different when you get up close. So
L.A. Times photographer Mark Boster and I arrived in
February, eager to poke around when the crowds are smaller
and the surf is bigger.
timing on this trip was not good. We rolled in amid
sluggish traffic, thanks in part to Kuhio Highway’s many
beloved one-lane bridges and in part to high occupancy in
the Hanalei-adjacent resort area of Princeville. The waves
were not just big but massive and sloppy, forcing
cancellation of most watersports and boat tours. Strong
winds, sometimes gusting close to 40 mph, grounded
helicopter tours. Clouds filled the sky for days. Our
first purchase, two bags of groceries in Kapaa, came with
a bonus population of bugs.
Hanalei (population about 450) didn’t feel quite like
paradise. But even then, it was easy to look at.
me, the center of gravity was the Hanalei Pier, so I spent
a lot of time there as fishermen angled for bonefish,
local kids leaped into the surf near the "NO
JUMPING" sign and feral roosters (endemic on the
island) pecked at stray coconuts.
day on the pier, I met Abe Rivera, 15, who strolled up
cradling a feral piglet that he’d caught in the
mountains on a bow-hunting expedition with his dad.
Another day, Erika Green of Waldorf, Md., turned up in her
wedding gown, trailed by her new husband, Tim Green, and
wedding planner Diana Gardner of Alohana Weddings.
beautiful place on the island," Gardner said as the
Greens trod the pier like models on a runway. "And no
one else on the beach!"
almost no one. Jett Yarberry, a 38-year-old surfing
instructor and lifelong North Shore boy, is there most
days. "I grew up in that valley," Yarberry told
me, pointing west. "My parents came here as hippies
in 1968 and evolved into normal people."
is not an uncommon North Shore story. About 45 years ago,
Howard Taylor, the brother of actress Elizabeth Taylor,
bought several acres at the end of Kuhio Highway by Haena
Beach, eight miles west of Hanalei. He couldn’t get
permission to build, so he invited a band of hippies to
live on his land.
most of the ‘70s, Taylor Camp housed dozens of
free-thinking refugees from the mainland. They built
treehouses, raised kids, celebrated nudity, smoked pot and
annoyed many islanders before state officials finally
bought the land, chased them away and burned down the
the site is part of Haena State Park, but many of those
families remained on the island. (The tale is told in
"Taylor Camp," a 2010 documentary directed by
Robert C. Stone and coffee table book of the same name by
photographer John Wehrheim.)
days, North Shore visitors are more likely to stay in the
hotels and condos of Princeville, play a lot of tennis and
golf there, and alternate watersports with hiking,
shopping and restaurant exploring in tiny downtown
the north side of Kuhio Highway, the main drag, you find
Ching Young Village, once the site of a lonely general
store, now an ‘80s mini-mall that includes a grocery
store, tattoo parlor, several restaurants and ample kitsch
and grit. On the south side stands Hanalei Center, a
snazzier collection of restaurants and shops in a set of
buildings that 80 years ago held the town elementary
school. On the south side of the street, you can pay $7.75
for a macadamia nut shake at Shave Ice Paradise or browse
antique Polynesian weapons at Yellowfish Trading Co.
both sides of the highway and at the beach, you’ll see
stickers, posters and other reminders of two homegrown
heroes. One is Andy Irons, who won three world surfing
championships in the 2000s but died in 2010 at 32 when his
heart failed after "mixed drug ingestion."
other is surfer Bethany Hamilton, who was 13 in 2003 when
a tiger shark at Tunnels Beach tore off her left arm.
Hamilton recovered, returned to surfing and inspired the
movie "Soul Surfer" (2011). On March 21,
Hamilton won the Surf N Sea Pipeline Women’s Pro at Oahu’s
stickers we saw all over the North Shore say "Defend
Hanalei" — part of the debate over a developer’s
plans to build an 86-unit hotel and 34 homes on the ridge
between the Hanalei River and the St. Regis. That ridge
held the Hanalei Plantation Hotel in the ‘60s and a Club
Med in the 1970s but has been idle for more than 30 years.
One morning we hiked up there, and when I found the stage
where staffers and guests must have danced to the old Club
Med "Hands Up" song, I felt like Charlton Heston
spotting the Statue of Liberty at the end of "Planet
of the Apes."
understand the locals who lament that tourists and the
rich have taken over the North Shore. But I don’t think
those people are fully in charge yet. If they were, the
restaurant service would be faster. Parking on the sand
would be banned at Black Pot Beach. Those one-lane bridges
on the highway would be widened. And that would be a
the weather that’s really in charge here: the big waves,
the heavy rains on the erosion-carved mountains, the
hurricanes and tsunamis that arrive now and then to ravage
fact, it was an iffy decision, toward the end of our
visit, to ignore the low-hanging, rain-heavy clouds,
wrestle a rented kayak into the water at the river’s
mouth and paddle away from the tidal tug toward the taro
fields of the Hanalei Valley.
the move paid off. I got just far enough that the sound of
traffic faded and the foliage thickened along the shore.
The clouds hung heavy but did not burst. I heard birds and
murmuring water. And I saw Kauai’s green mountains,
right side up and upside down, reflected on the smooth
surfaces of the river.
timing? Who said that?
ON KAUAI, EAT LIKE ‘THE DESCENDANTS,’ LIVE LIKE A
the Hanalei area, the burgers come with a side of humor at
Bubba’s and a pleasant scene is baked into baked goods
at Kilauea Bakery. A list of places and activities, plus,
a Kilauea Lighthouse tip:
stroll Hanalei Pier. It stands at the end of Weke Road,
where the Hanalei River meets Hanalei Bay. The concrete
pier, neighbored by Black Pot Beach Park, offers panoramic
views and juts about 300 feet into the bay.
mile from the Hanalei Pier: Do test the water at Hanalei
Pavilion Beach Park, Weke Road, Hanalei. Shaded pavilion,
bathrooms, grass, picnic tables and a beach facing Hanalei
mile from Hanalei Pier: Do grab a beer or snack at Tahiti
Nui (5-5134 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-6277, www.thenui.com).
Lived-in atmosphere, slow service, long history. Live
music nightly. George Clooney and Beau Bridges ate here in
mile: On date night, do consider Bar Acuda (5-5161 Kuhio
Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-7081, www.restaurantbaracuda.com).
Upscale tapas in a sleek setting. Dishes about $8 to $22.
mile: Do try breakfast at the Wake Up Cafe (5-5144 Kuhio
Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-5551, www.hanaleiwakeupcafe.com).
Lines can get long and service can be brusque, but we had
two mornings of prompt, hearty food. Cash only. Breakfast
only. Prices up to $11.
mile: Do eat at Hanalei Gourmet (5-5161 Kuhio Highway,
Space 5, Hanalei; (808) 826-2524, www.hanaleigourmet.com).
Most dinners $22.95-$31.95. In old plantation-style
schoolhouse building of Hanalei Center. Live music some
mile: For a homegrown burger, do try Bubba’s Burgers
Hanalei (5-5161 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-7839, www.bubbaburger.com).
Bubba’s is a local chain, known for its cheeky slogan
("We cheat tourists, drunks and attorneys") and
Kauai grass-fed beef. Prices top out at $8.25
mile: Do check out Pedal ‘n Paddle (5-5190 Kuhio
Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-9069, www.pedalnpaddle.com),
one of several Hanalei companies renting surfboards,
kayaks, bikes, etc. Single kayaks start at $20 a day.
Beach-cruiser bikes rent for $15 a day.
mile: Don’t show up late for services at Waioli Huiia
Church (5363A Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-6253, www.hanaleichurch.org),
which dates to the early 19th century. The handsome main
building, a big green American Gothic structure that went
up in 1912, helps attracts many visitors to Sunday
services. A few steps away, the Mission Hall dates to the
1840s, when Christian missionaries were still a novelty on
the island. Sunday services (which combine English and
Hawaiian) begin at 10 a.m.
mile: Do try the sushi at Hanalei Dolphin Restaurant &
Fish Market (5-5016 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808)
Elegant dining room and bar with colored lanterns. Big
patio with river views. Sushi lounge. Tastiest dish of my
trip was the Dolphin’s tempura-battered soft shell crab
temaki with chili oil aioli, green onion and sprouts.
miles: If you’re child-free and seeking funky style near
the beach and the main drag, do try the Hanalei Surfboard
House (5459 Weke Road, Hanalei; (808) 651-1039, www.hanaleisurfboardhouse.com).
This two-unit vacation rental, one block from the beach,
has surfboards instead of a white picket fence, bowling
balls instead of garden gnomes and a few lotus blossoms in
a fountain. Tobacco-free. $325 per night per unit, plus
one-time $95 cleaning fee.
miles: If you like "funky" but can’t afford
$325 a night, do try the Hanalei Inn (5-5468 Kuhio
Highway; (877) 769-5484, www.hanaleiinn.net).
Four studio units with kitchens and one without kitchen,
plus three more units in a beach house on nearby Weke
Road. Rates typically $149-$209; $279 for the main part of
the beach house. Inn units have wood floors, flat-screen
TVs and little terraces with just enough room for dining
tables. Shared barbecue. Daily maid service on request.
miles: Don’t underestimate Lumahai Beach (a.k.a. Nurses
Beach). This is where Mitzi Gaynor washed that man right
out of her hair. But waves get big, and there’s a rock
ledge nearby. One study tallied 23 drownings there from
1970 to 2012 (www.lat.ms/1hF7B1T).
miles: If you head west from Hanalei to Haena State Park
(see Kalalau Trail sidebar), do get a snack at Sushi Girl
(5-6607-B Kuhio Highway, Wainiha; (808) 827-8171, www.lat.ms/1kprQAb).
Food $5-$15. Next door to Wainiha General Store.
miles: If you’re bringing the family, do consider the
Hanalei Bay Resort (5380 Honoiki Road, Princeville; (808)
About 240 condo-style units, studios to two bedrooms. Some
are time shares, some privately owned, some vacation
rentals. Lush 22-acre grounds, enormous pool, eight tennis
courts, five- to 10-minute walk to beach. (The resort’s
restaurant was closed for renovation in spring, due to
open in summer.) Ten-minute drive from Hanalei.
miles: If you like the high end, do check out the St.
Regis Princeville Resort (5520 Ka Haku Road, Princeville;
(808) 826-9644, www.stregisprinceville.com),
the most glamorous hotel on the North Shore. Jaw-dropping
view from terrace, kid-friendly beach. Non-suite rooms
start at $490 a night.
miles: Do get a bite at Kilauea Bakery & Pau Hana
Pizza (2484 Keneke St., Kilauea; (808) 828-2020, www.lat.ms/P0KVwd).
Pleasant patio. It’s part of Kong Lung Historic Market
Center,a group of upscale shops and restaurants set in
stone buildings that were part of a sugar plantation.
miles: Do trust Paco’s Tacos (4460 Hookui Road, Kilauea;
(808) 635-0873, www.lat.ms/1m35iI0)
for a fix of fresh Mexican food. It’s not cheap, but
this lunch wagon parks outside the handsome, well-stocked
Healthy Hut Market & Cafe. Breakfasts and lunch plates
up to $16.
miles: Do leave time for a leisurely meal at Common Ground’s
Garden Cafe (4900 Kuawa Road, Kilauea; (808) 977-8373, www.commongroundkauai.net).
Big patio on a 46-acre agricultural property. Prosperous
hippies, farm-to-table organic focus (but they do serve
burgers). Terrific Mighty Green Salad (kale, papaya,
macadamia nuts) for $14. Breakfast and lunch.
miles: Don’t try to visit Kilauea Lighthouse or Kilauea
Point National Wildlife Refuge (3500 Kilauea Road,
Kilauea; (808) 828-1413, www.lat.ms/1eFDWQf)
on a Sunday or Monday. Since federal budget cuts, they’ve
been closed those days. The rest of the week, you can see
the lighthouse (opened 1913, closed in the 1970s), which
sits dramatically on a bluff top, and the 203-acre
wildlife refuge. Admission $5 per visitor age 16 or older.
HISTORY TIMELINE: HOW THE ISLAND EVOLVED
million years ago: Kauai is the first of several volcanic
islands to rise from the Pacific, forming the Hawaiian
First Polynesian explorers and settlers reach the islands.
Capt. James Cook lands on Kauai’s south shore. He and
his crew are the first Europeans to reach Hawaiian soil.
Within two years, they run afoul of the islands’ rulers,
and Cook is killed in a skirmish on the Big Island.
Commissioned by the empire-building Russian American Co.
to establish a presence in Hawaii, German doctor George
Schaffer starts building three forts on Kauai, including
one at Princeville. Within a year, Schaffer is ejected by
Hawaii’s homegrown monarchy.
Eager to load rice exports onto ships, workers put up a
wooden pier in Hanalei Bay. Over time it will be also used
for loading sugar, taro and cattle.
The U.S. seizes control of the Hawaiian islands from the
kingdom’s ruling family. Formal annexation follows in
1898, statehood in 1959.
A concrete pier replaces the wooden one at Hanalei Bay.
Last commercial use of the Hanalei Pier.
A roof is added at the end of the Hanalei Pier, and a
tourism icon is born.
Largest tsunami in the island’s (short) recorded history
hits the North Shore, lashing Haena with 45-foot waves and
sending 19-foot waves into sheltered Hanalei Bay.
In the aftermath of another tsunami, the film version of
"South Pacific" is shot in and around Hanalei.
Besides the pier, the production uses Lumahai Beach (where
Mitzi Gaynor sings "I’m gonna wash that man right
outa my hair") and Makana Mountain, which stands in
for mystical Bali Hai.
On the scenic ridge at the eastern edge of Hanalei Bay,
the Hanalei Plantation Hotel opens with about 210 rooms
and cottages. In the ‘70s it becomes a Club Med, then
closes and falls idle.
The last damaging tsunami to hit Kauai.
In the North Shore area of Princeville, previously home to
sugar plantations, a cattle ranch and the planter’s
estate in "South Pacific," builders begin a
9,000-acre, master-planned, upscale enclave with legions
of vacation homes and condos.
Princeville adds a big Sheraton hotel, spread over three
four-story buildings on a slope near the water’s edge.
(In 2008, the Sheraton will be renovated and reborn as a
Hurricane Iniki hits Kauai, killing several people and
destroying more than 1,400 homes. Director Steven
Spielberg and the crew of "Jurassic Park," on
their final day of location shooting, safely huddle in a
hotel. The movie comes out the following year.
"The Descendants" shoots extensively on the
North Shore, including a restaurant scene featuring George
Clooney and Beau Bridges at Hanalei’s Tahiti Nui.
Ohana Real Estate Investors, the company behind the
Montage hotels in California and Utah, proposes a new
resort on the old Hanalei Plantation Hotel site, with an
86-unit hotel and 34 homes. Many locals oppose the
project. Environmental impact studies begin.
The Hanalei Pier is in bad shape, but state officials (who
own it) say they can’t afford repairs. The Hanalei Bay
Rotary Club raises more than $150,000 to do the job.
University of Hawaii, http://lat.ms/1m2R33j;
Kauai Historical Society, www.kauaihistoricalsociety.org;
U.S. Geologic Survey, www.lat.ms/1t19xW5;
Defend Hanalei, www.SaveHanaleiRiverRidge.com;
Ohana Real Estate Investors, www.HanaleiPlantation.com)
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