| Parisian
Puffs with Italian Plums Prune sit on display at the
Bakeshop, January 20, 2013, in Portland, Oregon. |
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PORTLAND,
Ore. — Is it possible for an Angeleno to leave home and
find love in a region where sunshine is merely a rumor and
50 shades of gray are a daily atmospheric reality?
It’s
helpful if the pursuit of that bliss involves a white-hot
controversy that upon occasion dominates headlines and
ensnares academics, government officials and medical
researchers.
I am
speaking, of course, of carbohydrate love.
Portland
— where the constantly caffeinated seem to have an
ever-growing selection of pastries to consume with their
coffee — is a logical destination. "We love our
bakeries like we love books and strip clubs," a
writer at Portlandfoodanddrink.com professed last year.
My
husband, Steve, and I flew to Portland in early December,
primed for a pastry crawl — 48 hours of maple frosting
and bacon, of gingersnaps and drop biscuits with lemon
curd. We were also primed for a visit with our 25-year-old
son, Greg, who wanted to introduce us to his serious
girlfriend, thus allowing us to witness a more traditional
sort of affection.
Our
list of stops was informed by recommendations of friends
and coworkers who have some awareness of Portland’s
growing reputation as a gastropolis.
During
the 48 hours, we stopped at seven places, ranging from
artful (Bakeshop) to playful (Voodoo Doughnut Too). We
drove about 70 miles in total as we wended our way around
four of the city’s five quadrants (North, Northeast,
Southeast, Northwest, Southwest). Portland is not
difficult to navigate and the locals’ idea of bad
traffic made us snort with derision, but we discovered
that there were times to turn off the GPS and ask for
directions.
Mostly,
we grazed. We consumed shortbreads and gingersnaps, Fruit
Loop doughnuts and macarons, at prices that ranged from $2
to $6 (although some of the big loaves of bread cost as
much as $15). During our short stay, we must have consumed
a month’s worth of calories, and we agreed to give up
sugar not only for Lent but also for the rest of the year,
a resolution we broke as soon as we spied "made in
Oregon" chocolates at Portland International Airport.
It was an experience we’d repeat tomorrow.
Here’s
a rundown of the bakeries and sugar shacks we visited:
—Bakeshop
Known
for: Pastry chef Kim Boyce worked at Campanile and Spago
before relocating to the Pacific Northwest. Her creations,
which are sold to other restaurants and coffee shops,
attest to a thoughtful, sophisticated baker.
Highlights:
Shortbread, ginger molasses cookies, chocolate orange
pecan scones, chocolate espresso cake
Vibe:
The Bakeshop counter is relatively small and practically
elegant, reflecting what is being sold. Next door at Case
Study Coffee, the mood was one of quiet contentment.
Overheard:
Bakeshop is a carry-out kind of place next door to Case
Study Coffee, which roasts its own coffee and encourages
carry in. On a rainy Saturday afternoon, most customers
seemed engrossed in their computers and their pastries;
eavesdropping was a challenge. But a preschooler clutching
a hot chocolate with homemade marshmallows proved the
exception by loudly extolling its virtues.
Conclusion:
An adult experience. Look for Madeleine Peyroux on your
iTunes, plug in the headphones and dig in. Most items
$2-$6.
Info:
5351 N.E. Sandy Blvd.; (503) 946-8884, www.bakeshoppdx.com.
Open 7 a.m.-2 p.m. Wednesdays-Sundays.
—Voodoo
Doughnut Too
Known
for: Tourists, long lines, doughnuts covered with maple
frosting and bacon, arcade games and T-shirt sales.
Despite all this (or because of it), Voodoo gets great
press. Bon Appetit once proclaimed: "What Dali was to
art, Voodoo is to donuts." (There are two other
locations: the original, in Northeast Portland, and a shop
in Eugene, Ore.)
Highlights:
Bacon maple bar, the voodoo doll (a doughnut filled with
raspberry jelly and topped with chocolate frosting), the
Loop (covered with Fruit Loops) and the maple blazer blunt
(decorated with red sprinkles).
Vibe:
Voodoo Too feels like a combination tourist trap, fetish
shop and sweet factory. It’s fast, furious and fun —
in a sledgehammer kind of way.
Overheard:
Loud rock ‘n’ roll, gluttonous grunts
Conclusion:
Despite the protests ("Overrated!") from the
locals in our group, a stop is compulsory for any visitor
with a jones for sugar.
Info:
1501 N.E. Davis St.; (503) 235-2666, www.voodoodoughnut.com/voodoo
— doughnut — too.html. Open 24/7
"except for certain holidays." Doughnuts from 95
cents. Cash only.
—Little
T American Baker
Known
for: Baker-owner Tim Healea’s chewy breads with fine
crumbs, Stumptown Coffee, Sally Lunn bread, and a listing
in Bon Appetit’s 2010 "10 Best Boutique Coffee
Shops."
Highlights:
Drop biscuit with lemon curd, apple cheese Danish, orange
brownie, pretzel bread, seeded hoagie roll, baguettes
Vibe:
Modern but warm. The space is filled with light (when the
sun is out), thanks to all the windows. Wood accents and
flowers add homeyness, and the customers dress as if they
were trying to fulfill our every stereotype of the Pacific
Northwest. Think jeans, beanies, polar fleece, North Face.
Overheard:
Employees who know their stuff; customers who know the
menu. Locals rule.
Conclusion:
A sublime experience on a Sunday morning, Little T sets
the bar high.
Info:
2600 S.E. Division St.; (503) 238-3458, www.littletbaker.com.
Open 7 a.m.-5 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, 8 a.m.-2 p.m.
Sundays. Most pastries $2.50-$3.50.
—Tabor
Bread
Known
for: Tabor says it’s the first retail bakery in Portland
to mill its own flour, and the breads are baked in a
wood-fired oven in the middle of the store — very cozy.
Highlights:
Savory bread pudding, oat scones with currants and orange,
rye Pullman loaves, light rye bread and baguettes
Vibe:
Tissa Stein took a former medical building and transformed
it into a neighborhood gathering spot. The bakery has a
homey feel, with hardwood floors, an open-beam ceiling and
a scattering of tables, chairs and bar stools, all
occupied by customers clad in what seems to be a municipal
requirement: jeans, beanies, fleece
Conclusion:
Cool neighborhood hangout, especially for those who
embrace wood-fired breads made from house-milled grains
— which undoubtedly includes 99 percent of the city’s
residents.
Info:
5051 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; (971) 279-5530, www.taborbread.com.
Open 7 a.m.-6 p.m. Wednesdays-Fridays and 8 a.m.-6 p.m.
Saturdays and Sundays. Prices vary; scones $3.25.
—Pearl
Bakery
Known
for: Pearl Bakery, on the edge of downtown’s Pearl
District, opened in 1997, which makes it one of the more
established enterprises on this pastry tour. The breads
are sold to local restaurants and grocery stores and to
customers who took up every seat in the small storefront
during our visit. Most recent accomplishment? A line of
artisan chocolates.
Highlights:
Ham and Gruyere croissant, cinnamon crowns, apple hazelnut
paws, macarons, baguettes, Pugliese bread, roggenbrot
(dark rye)
Vibe:
Pearl is a neighborhood hangout, but the huge baking
kitchen in the back is a reminder of its large commercial
enterprise. It’s close to Powell’s City of Books and
not surprisingly, many of the customers brandished printed
matter in one hand and a mass of carbohydrates in another.
Conclusion:
Bring your signed copy of Dave Eggers’ "A Hologram
for the King" (recently purchased after a
book-signing Feb. 5 at Powell’s), order a lemon tart and
stay awhile.
Info:
102 N.W. 9th Ave.; (503) 827-0910, www.pearlbakery.com.
Open 6:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, 7 a.m.-5 p.m.
Saturdays, and 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays. Most items
$1.25-$4.50.
—Ken’s
Artisan Bakery
Known
for: Ken Forkish opened his bakery more than a decade ago,
and his empire has expanded to Ken’s Artisan Pizza and a
cookbook titled "Flour Water Salt Yeast: The
Fundamentals of Artisan Bread and Pizza." His bread
has inspired a great deal of praise from foodies and
others, but it’s the pastry selection that mesmerized
customers on a recent morning.
Vibe:
With its high ceilings, yellow walls and polished concrete
floors, Ken’s is homey and businesslike at the same
time. The display of breads and pastries and sweets is
like a garden of earthly delights.
Highlights:
Bread pudding, apple galette, macarons, hazelnut butter
cookies, brioche, walnut bread, ciabatta
Overheard:
An astonished customer who asked: "How many flavors
of macarons do you have?"
Conclusion:
Plop the baby in a high chair with a croissant to keep her
quiet, plunge that fork into your slice of opera cake and
know that bliss, although temporary, is a very real state.
Info:
338 N.W. 21st Ave.; (503) 248-2202, www.kensartisan.com.
Open 7 a.m.- 6 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 8 a.m.-5 p.m.
Sundays. Most items $2-$4.
—Blue
Collar Baking Co.
Known
for: Blue Collar’s slogan is "We’re not afraid of
butter!" and the proprietor means it. The year-old
business is the most recent step in owner Warren Becker’s
evolution from home baker to entrepreneur.
Highlights:
Red velvet Bundt cake, wage earner chocolate chip cookies,
big rig oatmeal cookies, waitress scones
Vibe:
It feels like its name — blue collar. Clocks are proudly
labeled and set to the time in Scranton, Pa., Milwaukee
and Cleveland. Industrial-style tables and chairs sit atop
a tile floor. Cookies and pastries sit under glass domes
on a counter.
Conclusion:
Becker and his baked goods are irresistible. Pull up a
chair and a chocolate chip cookie and banish all thoughts
of kale for the next 20 minutes.
Info:
319 S.W. Pine St.; (503) 227-3249, www.bluecollarbaking.com.
Open 7 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, 7:30 a.m.-3 p.m.
Saturdays. All cookies $1.
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