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Oak
Ridge, Tennessee, historian, Bill Wilcox, 88, was
a chemist on th secret World War II project to
make ingredients for an atomic bomb. In the '40s,
this "cemesto" home and others like it
seemed to spring up overnight.
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OAK RIDGE, Tenn.
— The poster's hush-hush tone said it all: "What
you see here, what you do here, what you hear here, when
you leave here, let it stay here."
Here in the
rolling hills of eastern Tennessee, America built one of
three secret cities that developed the atomic bombs
dropped on the Japanese cities of Hiroshima and Nagasaki,
bringing an end to World War II.
The city, now
called Oak Ridge, once was home to 75,000 people, yet it
did not appear on any map. Visitors could get into the
town only through gated entrances. The vast majority of
residents were unwitting participants in the drive to
harvest enriched uranium for the "Little Boy"
bomb that devastated Hiroshima on Aug. 6, 1945. They
learned exactly what they were doing only when they read
the big, black headlines that proclaimed the war's end.
Nearly 66 years
later, Oak Ridge is getting ready to celebrate its
heritage — and to party a little too.
On June 17 and
18, the city of more than 27,600 people will hold its
ninth annual Secret City Festival, two days of family
entertainment featuring headliners the Village People and
Ricky Skaggs. Year round, the town presents an array of
museums, historic sites and buildings that convey what
happened behind a curtain of secrecy that is hard to
fathom in the age of Google Earth, Facebook and Twitter.
"These days
you could never do that," said Bill Wilcox, 88, the
city historian, who experienced Oak Ridge's deception from
the moment he arrived here as a chemist fresh out of
college. After telling Wilcox he would be working with
uranium, his superiors ordered that he never utter the
word — at least until the war was over.
As visitors learn
from the signature exhibit at the American Museum of
Science & Energy here, Oak Ridge was born in 1942 as
America raced to build an atomic bomb before Hitler's
Germany. The effort, code-named the Manhattan Project,
built two other secret cities: one in Hanford, Wash.,
where plutonium was made for the bomb dropped on Nagasaki;
the other, in Los Alamos, N.M., where the bombs were
assembled.
The U.S. Army
Corps of Engineers snapped up 59,000 acres of eastern
Tennessee farmland. A thousand rural families were given
as little as two weeks to leave. They would make way for
an instant city and four atomic plants, including a
U-shaped, 44-acre behemoth called K-25 that measured half
a mile by 1,000 feet.
The army picked
Oak Ridge for several reasons: Its temperate climate would
allow for yearround construction. Nearby dams would
provide the needed electricity. The area's landscape —
long valleys framed by parallel ridges — would shelter
the plants from spies. If one of the plants blew up, the
ridges would prevent an explosion from spreading like a
string of firecrackers.
The town grew
like kudzu, zooming past the initial projected population
of 13,000 because so many workers were needed. In less
than four years, by Wilcox's count, the Army engineers had
built nearly 10,000 homes for families, 90 two-story
dormitories, 5,000 trailers, barracks and huts for 16,000
people, a dozen shopping centers, nine neighborhood
schools, two chapels and the nation's ninth-largest bus
system.
It was called the
"Clinton EngineerWorks," a bland name that would
not attract attention. Nosy people from nearby Knoxville
still asked what was going on inside the gates. "Oh,
we're just building a bunch of homes for all the officers
to come retire in after the war," residents would
say.
Today, especially
along its franchise-lined commercial strip, Oak Ridge
looks more like any city than Atom City. But visitors can
still glimpse vestiges of the town's storied past.
An outdoor
exhibit at the American Museum of Science & Energy
features one of Oak Ridge's prefab "flat-top"
houses: a 567-square-foot two-bedroom, complete with two
sinks (one for washing clothes, the other for dishes). The
homes were trucked into town in two halves, completely
furnished.
Nearby is Jackson
Square, the historic arcaded shopping area that once
hummed 24/7 as townspeople frequented its movie theater,
bowling alley, dance hall and stores. You also can see the
shuttered, classically dressed Guest House, which once
hosted renowned nuclear physicists who signed in under
assumed names, and the white, spire-topped Chapel on the
Hill, which hosted multiple religious denominations during
the war.
Elsewhere, you
will encounter winding streets and the town's
"alphabet homes," single-family houses whose
different models were known as "A,"
"B" and so on. The outside walls of the cheap,
quickly built alphabet homes were made from a mix of
asbestos and cement called "cemesto." Today
they've been personalized, with a variety of colors and
facade styles.
History and
science buffs should visit the New Hope Center, which
offers an exhibit devoted to the massive Y-12 atomic plant
that separated the crucial uranium material, known as
U-235, from ordinary uranium.
After the
"pretty blue-green powder" of the U-235 was
carefully packaged, Wilcox recalled, it was slipped into a
briefcase that was chained to the wrist of a lieutenant in
civilian clothes. Accompanied by armed escorts, the
lieutenant took a train to New Mexico. There, scientists
used the enriched uranium to make one of the bombs.
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IF YOU GO:
The American
Museum of Science & Energy, 300 S. Tulane Ave., offers
informative exhibits including "Secret City: The Oak
Ridge Story." 865-576-3200. amse.org
Through Sept. 2,
the U.S. Department of Energy runs a public bus tour of
its three Oak Ridge facilities, including the Y-12
National Security Complex, noon-3 p.m. Monday-Friday. The
tour, limited to U.S. citizens 10 or older, is $5 for
adults and $3 for students to age 17. Register at the
science and energy museum. The Secret City Commemorative
Walk, Oak Ridge Turnpike at South Tulane Avenue, is a
comtemplative outdoor memorial to those who build Oak
Ridge. rotaryor.org/sccw
The Children's
Museum of Oak Ridge, 461 W. Outer Drive, has an exhibit
about the difficult decisions behind the Manhattan
Project. 865-482-1074, childrensmuseumofoakridge.org
The Secret City
Scenic Excursion Train is an hour ride that includes a
trip through the original K-25 uranium enrichment plant.
It's off Tennessee Route 58, west of downtown Oak Ridge.
865-241-2140. techscribes.com/sarm/srm(underscore)scs.htm
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